How After-Market Exhaust Systems Can Disrupt Your Car’s Power Curve
When you install a tuned exhaust system, your car, truck, or SUV feels faster and more responsive. If you install a mish-mash of components, start cutting off various parts without understanding their function, etc., you may feel like you’ve wasted your money on a performance part that didn’t improve performance.
Usually, when an exhaust system disrupts your engine’s power curve, it’s because you’ve made one of the mistakes below.
How to Make Sure You Buy The Right Exhaust System or Muffler
1. Don’t go too big. A lot of vehicle owners make a mistake when they upgrade their exhaust system by purchasing exhaust pipes that are much larger than the factory set. With the exception of diesel trucks (which can sometimes benefit from really large pipe diameters), most vehicles leave the factory with the correct size exhaust pipes.
While the factory muffler might be cheap and restrictive, the engineers tend to do a pretty good job choosing the right pipe size. Therefore, stick close to the original factory pipe diameter – don’t add more than a half an inch in pipe diameter unless you’re driving a diesel or you’ve made some major performance upgrades (like adding a supercharger, for example).
Note: Exhaust tip size doesn’t matter when it comes to performance. As long as your exhaust tip isn’t some sort of muffler-tip combo, go as big as you can stand. The size of the pipe between the catalytic converter and the exhaust tip is what matters.
» If you want to know how big your exhaust pipes should be, check out this table of suggested exhaust pipe sizes.
2. Don’t go cheap. The cheapest mufflers on the market are essentially straight pipes filled with cheap fiberglass sound deadening materials. You can probably buy a set with the cash you’ve got in your wallet right now, and honestly they don’t sound too bad when they’re brand new.
Unfortunately, they’re cheap for a reason. When these mufflers get hot (like on a long road trip or a few runs at the track), the fiberglass stuffing inside the muffler starts to melt. Eventually, the stuffing breaks free and becomes an obstruction…and your cheap mufflers get plugged up and start robbing power from your ride. Invest in a good set of mufflers from a brand-name manufacturer (see our list of exhaust system manufacturers).
3. Think about sticking with the factory exit configuration. Are you thinking about adding a dual exhaust system to a vehicle that currently has a single exhaust pipe? If so, you might want to consider the fact that converting a single exhaust system to a dual system isn’t always a good idea.
- If you’re driving a 4 cylinder, adding a dual exhaust system is usually a very bad idea because there’s only one exhaust manifold exit on your engine. Unless you’ve got a very powerful 4 cylinder, there’s not enough exhaust gases coming out of your engine to necessitate a dual exhaust…and even then you probably don’t need a dual.
- Dual exhaust exits only makes sense if you’ve got dual exhaust paths coming out of the motor. If your engine doesn’t have two exhaust manifolds and two sets of catalytic converters (one for each side), then it probably doesn’t make sense to go with a dual exhaust.
4. Building your own system without doing your homework. If you want to avoid paying big money for an exhaust kit, you can definitely build your own. Here’s what you need to do:
- Use mandrel-bent pipes. Mandrel bends are smoother and more aerodynamic than press bends. If the pipes aren’t mandrel-bent, any changes in direction will result in a restriction. The good news is that you can buy mandrel-bent pipes online.
- Choose a muffler made for your vehicle. Mufflers should be chosen by looking at flow rates. Basically, you figure out where your engine makes the most usable power, and then you optimize everything for that point (f you’re a math wizard, you can check out this article on how to calculate muffler and exhaust pipe size). Fortunately, the muffler manufacturers have done the math and testing for us, so all you have to do is buy a muffler that was designed for your vehicle.
- Stick close to the factory pipe diameter. A 2″ dual exhaust system has enough capacity for a 300 hp system. Adding 1/4 of an inch to each pipe adds capacity for nearly 400hp. Going any bigger than 2 1/4 inch pipe diameter is usually overkill (and will often cause your engine to lose power).
I was wondering if a dual exhaust on a 2001 volvo s40 would be bad or good. I want to get the most power out of my car as possible. Any suggestions that dont cost a furtune?
Jon – As I understand it Volvo only offered a 4 cylinder in a 2001 S40. While you can definitely add a dual exhaust, the pipe diameter would have to be fairly small to maintain the appropriate back pressure. I’d advise against it.
Its a Volvo. Its built for safety, not performance.you’ll end up dropping a few hundred dollars on a system or components and feel no difference from the minuscule power increase. Save your money. If you want more power trade up to a BMW.
I would drive a Volvo over a bmw any day of the weak. maybe your should go check the specs of a 3 series beemer from 2001, not much difference from the Volvo s40 so why would you “upgrade” to a beemer from a vehicle that the only real difference is the price tag. Its not like were talking Gio to Mercedes… its Volvo to bmw…apples to appples.
One word, handling…
BMW is surely going to handle better than a Volvo. Also isn’t Volvo a front drive car?
There are a lot of differences…
Out of curiousity i looked up the specs.
A base BMW blows a Volvo s40 off the road… What were you thinking? Not to mention the Volvo has a 4cyl. AND front wheel drive… There isn’t even a Manual Transmission… You might want to rethink your statement… lol
I don’t know what Volvo s40 you were thinking about but there is no similarity to a BMW 3 series…
BMW 3 Series Features and Specs
Features & Specs
Engine2.5 L Inline 6-cylinderDrivetrainRear Wheel DriveTransmission5-speed ManualHorse Power184 hp @ 6000 rpm
2001 BMW 3 Series Features and Specs
Features & Specs
Engine2.5 L Inline 6-cylinderDrivetrainRear Wheel DriveTransmission5-speed ManualHorse Power184 hp @ 6000 rpm
No a Volvo s40 isn’t comparable to a BMW 3 series, even the base 3 series would kill a volvo s40…
Obviously your haven’t looked into Volvos to be judging them. 93-97 850 R is eirher a front wheel drive or an all wheel drive with or with out manual transmission and pushes 258 hors power off the show room floor and with a few Benjamins and some know that swedish mean machine can push 500 horse. Trust me, I’ve hade 3 of them and ain’t no beemer got jack on an 850 R.
Are the catalytic converters on a 1997 Ford f150 8 cylinder compatible with a 2001 Ford van 6 cylinder
Haha good one!
Any 3 series bimmer with minor bolt on will destroy any front or all wheel Volo either your a kid that don’t know jack or under educated fool,
And if your talking about the 850 R although a nice ride with tons of power still is not wat any M3 of the same yr is and thats a fact do your homework BMW is an upgrade period you can’t compare lemons too oranges only oranges too oranges sure the 850 R will blow away a 325 or 318is or something of that sort like I said apples oranges and lemons too lemons , Homework assignment is necessary I do believe.
Bro, i think you never update or check what he latest trend. BMW now is left behind from Audi ,Merc, Volvo.
Volvo now have polestar which can easily outrun BMW m class anytime. Checkout on youtube or anybody u can ask for polestar.
True that!
Jay3284 seems to have a ‘brand loyalty’ misfire as his preference is premature without the experience of any variance.
Because .. who¿ Would choose a Volvo of any model over a BMW or other performance car? (Price tags aside)
Just picked up a 1989 Lincoln Town Car with 95K miles. Original everything, etc.
Exhaust is 2 cat. converters at base of head pipes with a “Y” joint aft and a single muffler/exhaust out the back.
I want to delete the “Y” joint and install dual exhausts all the way aft of the cat converters with proper Flowmaster mufflers.
My objective is smooth and efficient highway performance at the best possible MPG I can squeeze from the 300 cid V8 up front.
Suggestions, recommendations or comments anyone?
Ray – Y-pipes are good for balancing exhaust notes and can even be used to reduce noise. However, getting rid of it probably won’t hurt you at all and might even help. Most V8s perform just fine with or without a y-pipe.
I have a 97 ford f 150. I want to cut the Y pipe to run dual straight pipes back behind the cab. Will this effect my truck in any way? I cut my muffler off and ran one straight pipe back and sounds good but want duals to top off the way it sounds. Thanks!
Nelson – It certainly good effect power if the new duals are larger than each side of the “y” – as exhaust leaves your engine, it starts to cool. The gas cools faster in a larger pipe, which means a pipe that’s too large can cause you to loose low-end power. SO, my recommendation is to go with a dual setup that mirrors the size of your Y-pipes (i.e., if each y-pipe is 2″ – or whatever – go with a 2″ dual).
Jason-
So would my truck be fine if i cut the Y pipe a little bit so i could run two straight pipes from it? I just wanna know that my truck wont run bad if i do cut that pipe. Some people told me if i did it that my truck would start to run bad. I was also told i would have to run pipe so far back so there was a right amount of compression…?
Nelson – Compression isn’t effected by exhaust tubing, so I’m not sure what that person is referring to. If you cut the y-pipe and run two separate pipes all the way back, you only need to try to match the diameter of the y-pipes to the duals. Unless you strap two 3″ pipes onto two 1.5″ y-pipes (you want to go 1.5 to 1.5, or 2 to 2, etc.) you won’t notice much of a change in performance either way.
The y pipe balances your exhaust split your exhaust behind the y with another y it will give you the tones you are looking for with out restricting the flow. Welded chambered mufflers sound really sweet.
I have a 07 Silverado 5.3L Ext LT. I had a K and N CAI put on with a dynomax ultra-flow cat-back system. 3″ in and 2 2.5 out. both pipes exit right behind the rear tires. one to the left. other to the right. I now have a flutter sound or like a chopper behind me when i let off the throttle and 4 a brief second when accelerating. idles great. if i put it in 1-2 or 3rd it never happens but only when in drive and at low rpm. could this be from my exhaust?
Miles – I’d bet the flutter is coming from your air intake. This is a common complaint. Can you test it by switching it out for the stock airbox?
Jason I am having the same issue, I have a 2009 Sieera w/ AirAid cool air intake and dual 2.5 exhaust that sound you hear is called Scavening. The air mixture from the cold air and dual exhaust fight each other. Im loosing power from it. Im going to a single performace muffler with 3″ exhaust.
Btw it’s not the exhaust or the cold air intake it’s because after both intake and /or exhaust is changed the engine should be retuned as its getting either more intake flow or exhaust flow
Dakota – That’s somewhat true, but keep in mind that the shape and arrangement of the exhaust manifold largely dictates the backpressure requirement. If your headers/exhaust manifold are designed for 2psi of backpressure (for example), no amount of engine tuning will compensate for a total loss of that pressure.
As for the intake, the engine is supposed to be able to tune itself for the additional airflow, only I agree tuning can sometimes give you a boost above and beyond what the engine does automatically…depends on the vehicle.
Did that single exhaust work for your truck?
I had two new catalytic converts on my 98 z71 4×4 98 5.0 or 5.7 vortec engine and now my truck idles great but when I put it in gear and go its like its miss firing or slugish until it reaches 2500-2700rpms and runs great! I replaced distrubiter, all four o2 sensers, and next the plugs. What could be causing this? Thank u! Oh I cleared the computer out with the mechanics computer and the engine light whent off and came back with a code wich reads o2 senser on the left bank? Please help! Thank u!
Danny – Sounds like one of the 02 sensors may have a bad harness, or perhaps one of the cats isn’t working as it should be, or perhaps there’s a problem with the ECU.
Whatever the cause, this is a question for your local mechanic.
I’ve got a 2009 Volvo C30R – 2.5 w/turbo. The car has one manifold, the exhaust pipe leads to a single muffler that has dual tips out, seems unnecssary to me. I’d like better sound, so I thought of replacing the OEM muffler with two Ducati (Remus) mufflers. It looks like the two duc mufflers have more capacity than my OEM inlet pipe. Comments?
Thanks
BK – I don’t like the idea of adding two mufflers to a 4 cylinder…I think it’s probably OK in terms of performance (I doubt it would effect backpressure too much) but it seems completely unnecessary to buy two mufflers when one will do the job. Generally speaking, 4 cylinders never need more than one muffler (and one exit pipe).
Hey i have a 2007 2500hd silverdao with a single exhaust i really don’t know to much about these systems but i like the look and sound of a truck with dual exhaust so i wanna know if its possible and a good idea to change mine or leave it how it is?
Edwin – For a bigger truck like yours, it’s rarely a bad idea to add an after-market exhaust. Big pickups have big motors, and big motors are less susceptible to lost power due to reduced backpressure than smaller engines. My only suggestion is to match the size of the exit pipes to the size of your engine. Unless you have a diesel, 2.5″ dual exhaust pipes are probably spot on and 3″ duals are probably too much…we have a sizing chart here: https://www.exhaustvideos.com/faq/how-to-calculate-muffler-size-pipe-diameter/#easy
Ok thanks now i keep hearing that in doing so it will save me gas and others say it will only waste more?
Edwin – They will save gas, but only if you keep your foot out of it. 🙂
I have a 1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS, and i would like to know what would be the best exhaust system for my Eclipse?
John – That’s a question that has a lot of different answers…not one that I’d really recommend over the other.
I just X-Piped my 03′ X5 4.4, with no muffler or resonator just straight X Pipe. it is too loud and was wondering if I could get something to quiet it down that’s cheap. Is that possible?
Eric – A muffler is the only answer…straight pipes are almost always way too loud. Some universal mufflers are inexpensive, and you might look up SuperTrapp mufflers too. They’re attached to the end of your exhaust system and they’re really easy to tune – just add or subtract discs.
If you go with a muffler, you can get the straight pipe sounds by going with a muffler bypass kit like this one from QTP: http://www.tundraheadquarters.com/blog/2010/06/16/qtp-electric-exhaust-cutouts/
I have a 2001 Lincoln Town Car. The driver side catalytic converter rattled really bad. I went to a small muffler shop and he replaced it brand new for $300. No more rattle, but when I press the gas to go faster, it’s loud now, almost like a muscle car loud. I almost prefer the rattle over this sound. Do you think its the wrong C.V. or just cheap?
Jeremy – It’s hard to know what happened without looking, but if I had to guess I’d say that your mechanic didn’t reconnect the exhaust system to the catalytic…or perhaps the connection didn’t hold. With the engine off and the exhaust system cool, you can slide under the your car just below the front part of the passenger compartment and look for an obvious hole. You can also ask the mechanic to double-check his work. However, $300 for a catalytic sounds about right, so I don’t think they went cheap.
i have a 1993 toyota pickup 4×4, and want to uprgrade the exhaust, was thinking of putting Pacesetter headers, and a flowmaster 50 series exhaust, would you advise a high flow catalytic converter on keeping the stock one? and the flowmaster in size is 2.50″, will that cause a drop in power gain?
is a duel exhaust a good idea on a 85 toyota supra and does duel exhaust increase or decrease hp
Hi I purchased a exhaust system all the way thru with extractors 2 inche piping and a tanabe 3 ince muffler my car is a Daihatsu charade g200 1996 1.3 efi engine
i did not put the catalyc flow in so i was wondering ive lost power driving off its kinda slow but then picks up but it doesnt feel the same im new to all this and ive read about back preassure which ive definetly lost, was wondering if yous could help me out alwso got a ratling noise when i take off like a tin can or something but is there anyway i can get the back pressure back or would i have to change my whole exhaust system?
guy – If I had to guess, I’d say that the exhaust system is too big for your mighty 1.3L. 🙂
If you look at this post, you’ll see that 1 5/8″ probably would have been best: https://www.exhaustvideos.com/faq/how-to-calculate-muffler-size-pipe-diameter/
My suggestion is to swap out the muffler for something stock. That will also address the tin can noise you’re hearing (probably the muffler). If that doesn’t fix it, however, than you’ve got a loose part somewhere (might check exhaust manifold heat shield).
Jason, I have 15 year old son who is beginning to work on autos. We would like to get some more hp/ gas from our 1994 ranger 4cy, 60k miles. I thought we could add either a dual exhaust with y pipe or even add a second manifold. Your thought on this or what to do to get a little more hp/gas?
i have a 2006 jeep grand cherokee laredo 4.7l v8 dose putting dual exhaust sound like a good idea or a bad idea?
cameron – As long as you don’t go with a massive 3″ dual system, it sounds like a great idea to me!
I have a 2001 S60 T5 with mods. Per the tunning Company I’m running 315hp-320hp out of a 5 cylinder with boost pressures to 20-23psi max. Right now I have a 3″ downpipe with a 200 cpi metal cat. I do have a aftermarket exhaust system but I think it might be to small.
My question is what should the exhaust size be after the downpipe so I can compare to what I have to see if I need to mod it or not??
Paul – See this post: https://www.exhaustvideos.com/faq/how-to-calculate-muffler-size-pipe-diameter/
I have a 2011 Mazda 2 Sport 1.5L Automatic. I am looking at two axle-back exhausts and you appear to be very knowledgeable on this stuff. The two axle backs are specific to my car (direct fit) Racing Beat Power Pulse and HKS Silent Hi Power (bigger tip). What do you think? I want to hear a nice throaty growl, but don’t want it to look foolish or be too quiet/lose power.
Mike – I’ve never heard of Racing Beat, but HKS stuff is good. In truth, they’re probably both just fine. However, “throaty growl” is a moving target…might try finding some videos for that one (I’ll get it added to the site soon).
Jason,
Thanks for the site and for the previous feedback. Just in case anyone else is looking for my configuration I figured I would provide an update.
I did get the Racing Beat Power Pulse axle back exhaust. I absolutely love the sound! It’s got a kind of European sports car sound… A nice low purr and does makes good noise (non-intrusive) when you get on it. It also looks terrific — not like a massive coffee can sticking out. looks very well fitted to the car (and way better than the tiny straw that came stock). I never dyno’d, so I cannot claim true power gains… But it feels and sounds faster. Fuel economy remains unchanged — except when I’m loving the sound and getting on it! Absolutely happy with this choice. Thanks again for your insight.
Mike – Sounds awesome. Glad I could help. 🙂
I have a 300hp 375 ft lbs of torque 360 magnum crate engine in my 1991 dodge power ram 150 four wheel drive truck. When i purchased the truck it had no engine but it had brand new dual exhaust on it with hedder collectors, so when i put my engine in the truck i bolted my heedders up to the excisting exhaust. My concern is the exhaust is only 2 inch exhaust pipe and it has an h pipe right before the mufflers wich are 24 inch glass packs. Is 2 inch exhaust pipe enough for this engine? my friend has this exct smae engine with same carburetor and intake and hedders and the same mopar electronic ignition and he got his dynoed and it is accually putting out 319hp and 424 ft lbs of torque. I’m just wondering if 2 inch exhaust pipe is enough or if i would see an increase in power if i went to 2 1/4 inch exhaust pipe? Or would it benefit me better to geta better flowing muffler such as a flowmaster rather then to worry about increasing the exhaust pipe size 1/4 of an inch?
Payden – Truck sounds awesome! A dual 2″ pipe setup is probably too small…see this post: https://www.exhaustvideos.com/faq/how-to-calculate-muffler-size-pipe-diameter/
I asked for 2 1/4 inch pipe and the guy that did my exhaust had his own plans obviously because i got 2 inch exhuast pipe, i wasnt to pleased but i am trying to decide if that extra 1/4 inch of size would make much more of a difference to compensate for the 300 plus bucks it would cost me to do it all over again with 2 1/4 inch pipe.
I dont know how true this is but i have been told by a few people and have read tha a little smaller pipe is better then too much pipe and that generally a little smaller will increase low to mid range torque and throttle response, any truth to this? i guess there re just alot of different opinions out there when it comes to exhaust pipe size and mufflers.
Payden – There’s absolutely truth to the idea that a smaller pipe can be better – that’s pretty much the point of the article, in fact. 🙂
If you look here – https://www.exhaustvideos.com/faq/how-to-calculate-muffler-size-pipe-diameter/ – you can see how much pipe you really need for your engine based on horsepower. If you don’t mind some math, you can use our simple formula instead and get a good estimate.
According to the chart you provided i need at least 2 1/4 inch pipe wich is what i asked for. Just was wondering if there are exceptions to that chart. 2 inch vs 2 1/4 inch we are talking an extra 1/4 of an inch. And i have been told running a little bit smaller pipe will increase low end torque as well as throttle response. What do you think? I am eventually going to get this whole exhaust sytem of mine replaced with 2 1/4 inch pipe and if possible going to have an x pipe put in the exhaust instead of an h pipe. I have seen dyno results proven the x pipe helps with power more then an h pipe. I just never have gotten into the accual size of the exhaust pipe. Didnt think there would be that much of a difference between 2 inch vs 2 1/4 inch.
Payden – As the article states, a slightly smaller pipe gives you better low-end torque but costs you some top-end power. It’s not a massive difference, however, so I wouldn’t worry about it. As your installer says, there’s not much difference between the two sizes.
I read all the posts here but do not see anything about diesel trucks..
I have a 1990 F450 7.3 manual diesel with Auto overdrive,and it is in need of exhaust… I would like to know what is the best system to use single or dual and a pipe diameter???
Bill – You are correct about the lack of diesel exhaust info, and that’s a big oversight on my part. Diesels can benefit greatly from larger exhaust systems, and unlike gas motors, it’s hard to go “too big.” I will work to fix this soon.
In the meantime, a good place to look for diesel performance inspiration is Banks. I’m not saying you have to buy the Banks kit, but if they’re selling a dual exhaust for your 7.3L, that’s what I’d add to my truck. If they’re selling a single, that would be my pick.
Hope that helps. A lot of what you do on that older diesel has to do with how aggressive you want to be. There are a ton of diesel performance parts out there for these trucks.
I have a 2000 V6 Mercury Cougar, and i was wondering would it be possible to go into a dual exhaust from the stock single. I have been looking around on flowmaster, borla, magnaflow, etc. I have not seen any specific parts for my car. Is there anything you may know that could help me out. Thank You for your time.
Aaron – Your local muffler shop can craft something for you, but my question is, why? The smaller V6 you have will breath just fine with a single exit exhaust – all you need is a less restrictive muffler. Duals look cool (and I’m a sucker for them no doubt), but I’d rather spend my money on a new muffler and put the rest towards a programmer or air intake.
I also think there are some Cosworth top-end kits out there for that V6 (only you’ll have to dig around as I don’t have that at my fingertips). That might be a great place to spend money! 🙂
i used to have a 2001 cougar v6, straight piped with TKS N1 exhaust tip 4’in, it sounded like like a 400 hp car driving down the road haha it was awesome
Cody – Hopefully Aaron subscribed to the comments and is listening. Thanks for sharing!
I have a 1983 v6 3.8L mustang GLX, i was wondering if i could go duel exhaust and if it would hurt my engine or even improve its flow. thank you.
Thomas – I don’t see a dual exhaust hurting a V6, provided the pipes are sized correctly.
I have an 88 k1500 with a crate 350 TBI, mild RV cam, econoaid tb enhancer, custom cold air intake, K&N filter, and a Magnaflow XL turbo muffler. Awhile back, my step dad did my exhaust for me and put on a stock GM muffler, the usual 3 in 2.5 out. A couple days ago, I finally got the time and money to install the Magnaflow XL which is a 3in 2.25 dual outs. When installing it, I noticed my step dad cheaped out, and went with a 3 inch pipe off the y pipe, bypass the cat, and then he did a 2.5 curved pipe welded to the 3 inch pipe, that then goes to muffler, and welded the end of the 2.5 to a 3 inch pipe that then goes to the muffler. Is what my step dad did with the whole, clustercrap job he did going to affect my engines performance? PS. I tig welded the magnaflows 2.25 duals to the pipes itself.
Mike – First of all, I’m going to steal the word “clustercrap” from you. I like it.
Second, catalytic converters really aren’t restrictive on a normally aspirated motor. I’d venture a guess that just running the exhaust through the cat will give you a boost, mostly because curves and welds inevitably create restrictions.
BTW – I’ve seen data to suggest that a catalytic converter flows as well as a hunk of empty pipe at lower RPMs. For a truck owner with a normally aspirated engine (no turbo or S/C), there’s no good reason to bypass the cat IMHO.
Thanks for liking the “clustercrap” saying, its nicer to say than others I could think of. The only reason I bypassed the cat was because it was clogged, and didn’t feel like paying for a new one. I would have actually preferred it because it helps prevent the majority of the exhaust from rusting out since it gets so hot. I haven’t had any major problems since I’ve removed it, so its all good. But here’s where I could use a little help, I like the Magnaflow muffler I have on now, it gives it a bit of a deep tone, but I want a little deeper. What else can be done for a deep tone?
Mike – A bigger muffler might do it…I’ve also seen x-pipes help with tone. However, my best suggestion is to consult with your local muffler shop or on your favorite GM truck forum, because now we’re getting into nitty-gritty details that are often engine specific.
Im planning on gettin a 03 dodge ram 1500 2wd with a 4.7l v8 magnum. Ive got friends that have put straight pipes on their trucks and they sound amazing, but im worried about the fuel mileage going down hill, and with the riseing fuel prices im just a little concered with this. I was just wondering if its an okay idea to put on a y pipe out of the cat the 2″ 5″ pipes all the way out, along with the muffler deletion? I am aware its illegal to delete the muffler, but im just looking at different exaust combinations. Any feedback is much appreciated. Thanks.
Austin – I don’t know that a straight pipe is certain to hurt gas mileage, but it could.
Did you read how most engines are designed for a system with some back pressure? If you go straight pipe, you’ll lose some low-end torque. Do yourself a favor – go with an aggressive muffler rather than a muffler delete. You won’t risk any legal problems, the truck will still sound awesome, and neither performance or gas mileage will suffer. 🙂
I have a 2001 dodge ram v8 5.9 with a 360 in it. I had a flowmaster 44 dual on it, but i just took the muffler off today, i want it louder. I heard that if you put a glass pack on backwards it would be the closest sound to a straight pipe i was just wondering if this was true or not? What exhaust would you recommend for this truck? Any advice would be greatly appreciated
Ty – Definitely not true. Putting on a glasspack backwards would restrict flow more than putting it on the right way. Also, glasspacks are essentially straight pipe packed with fiberglass…the strands of fiberglass absorb the really high frequency sound waves, which makes your truck sound deeper and meaner without being quite as loud as a straight pipe.
If you want lots of sound, a couple of glasspack mufflers are perfect. Don’t flip them around backwards – that won’t make your truck sound better, nor will it improve performance…they’re designed to flow in one direction.
Now my truck wont sound like one of those crappy import things flyin down my road right? Im a mechanic but the exhaust portion just isnt my thing, im still learning about them.
Ty – No sir – no way you’re going to make a big V8 sound like an import racer. The cool part about a V8 is that you’ll get deep tones you just can’t get with a 6 or a 4.
However, a quieter muffler might actually sound deeper than a glass pack. Glass packs don’t do as much to mute the high frequencies as a larger, slightly more restrictive muffler (emphasis on slightly).
I have a 2008 Mazda3 hatchback. Its completely stock under the hood, but I am just trying to get a better sound. Any suggestions on what i should do?
Tyler – Listen to some exhaust videos my man.
Hey ….. I was wondering a friend of mine crashed his 2008
5.7 Chrysler 300c with aftermarket dual flow master exhaust .
I have a 2011 3.5 Chrysler 300 touring . So I purchased his exhaust.
I would like to use just one muffler from the two and replace it with
My factory exhaust or must I use both exaust mufflers . I just don’t wanna hurt anything in the car!
Tylereberle – You probably wouldn’t hurt anything by just using one of the mufflers from your buddy’s system, but my concern would be that a single muffler wouldn’t flow quite enough exhaust gases at higher speeds…but it’s easy enough to figure out it. Just look up the muffler’s specs on the muffler manufacturer’s website (or call) and then compare that flow rate to our chart and your stated max HP.
I have a 2009 Chevy Silverado 4X4 Z71 LT with a 3′ single pipe. I was wanting your in put on putting duel 2′ out the back after the muffler. I am thinking about taking off the muffler and going to the flow master 10 series muffler. do you think this would be a good idea? Eventual I am going to get the K&N cold air intake for it.
hoagie – I think I had this setup once, but it’s a perfectly legit way to go and it definitely saves money over a true dual system. My only comment would be that running another pipe and adding another muffler really isn’t going to add much expense…and then you’ve got a true dual system.
What would be the best exhaust for a ls400 1996. it has a v8 4l engine.
I have a 95 acura legend coupe. I wanted a dual exhaust (one on each side) system. Would that be ok for the performance? My car is a v6, 230hp. Thanks.
I have a 2000 4.6 (281 Cubic Inch V8) Northstar out of a Cadillac Eldorado. It has 1 CAT and a couple of bends 90 degree and a 45 degree. i have it straight piped I do notice gas mileage does go down but that could be because im on the throttle more because it sounds SWEET! This engine has such small exhaust cam lift that it doesn’t pop and its not very loud. It has 32 valve (DOHC V8) Very deep sounding V8 I have Flow-master supper 44s, the stock exhaust is 2.25 inches single pipe to a y pipe that goes down to 2 inches i upgraded to 2.25 on both sides of the y pipe all stainless. It outta sound good. I think the back pressure is a must on MPG and performance. I DIDNT how ever notice any performance taken away but i did notice a little bit more performance as it burns the tires pretty good from a roll!
I have a 2006 rx-8 and Im looking for a good exhaust system that doesn’t sound like its whining bcz of the rotary engine. Any sugesstions?
Brandon – Nothing I can think of. You can go with the standard mufflers from all the import tuning companies, but they’re all going to sound a bit buzzy I think.
I have a 2005 rx-8 with straights, cats, 4″tips, and the resonator… it sounds Awesome… the only question i have is will that hurt my motor or will i lose hp because there isnt much backpresure on the motor… i also though about putting my muffler back on and cutting out the resonator… i just need some help or feed back.
Daimen – You’re not going to hurt anything with these changes, and you may find that removing backpressure on your RX is a good thing, as the rules are a bit different for rotary motors.
Ideally, you can do a before and after dyno test to see what the improvement is and where it comes in the torque curve.
I have a 95 GMC G2500 conversion. The exhuast was 3″ to muffler
and 2.75 out to a single( no cat). I was getting about 14 mpg. i changed to a 3″ to magnaflow, split muffler to 2.25 out dual. I now get about 11 to 12 mpg. Where did I go wrong?
Terry – When you’re talking about a decrease in fuel economy that’s greater than 10%, you’re probably not talking about something that happened because of your exhaust system (at least not exclusively).
However, you likely reduced backpressure in the system, so it could be that a portion of the fuel economy loss was due to your change. However, my suggestion would be to look elsewhere first. Usually when you monkey with the exhaust, the fuel economy doesn’t change much (good or bad).
Thanks, I feel better. i changed the air filter, new distributor cap and rotor, new plugs and wires. I have noticed it smells very rich, and there is a flex pipe that runs from the air cleaner to the manifold that was loose. There is also a butterfly flap in the breather that connects to that hose. I think that heat from the exhaust runs from that hose to a heat sensitive spring that connects to that flap. it may have gone bad keeping the flap closed and running to rich.I’ll start there next, maybe get a cold air intake.
I am SUPER confused when it comes to exhaust. I’ve been told I should decide between Gibson, Borla, and Magnaflow. I drive a 2004 Ram 1500 with a V8 Hemi Magnum. The exhaust currently is a single pipe exiting out the right rear. I’m not huge into performance modifications and I don’t really know a whole lot about it to begin with. I might play around with a chip but I’m not looking to drop a whole lot of cash, just up to I’d say..700 on exhaust. I’ve always liked dual exhaust so asthetically, I pefer it. I heard that dual exhaust (and gibson in general) detracts from the low end performance and adds hp and torque but top end performance isn’t my deal, I’d prefer having better acceleration like from a stop light. I want my truck to be loud but not Red Neck/obnoxious. Its a beautiful, big black truck, with a big engine and it should sound like one, right now it sounds like my mom’s camry. I want people to notice if I’m next to them idling but I’ve seen some rediculous set ups where guys have to turn off their trucks to order at a drive thru. When I step on that gas pedal and take off past someone, I want them to really hear me. I’m not looking for some cheap glass pack sound, I hate the tone. Is there such an exhaust for me? and is it true dual? or a Y pipe? or what? Also, can I get what I want without breaking the bank? Do I hate to buy an exhaust system for like 600 dollars and have it installed or can I just buy a muffler, tips, and have the installers of the products bend pipes for me?
Dan – Check out Borla’s kits in addition to Gibson. They offer great tone, but unlike the kits from Magnaflow or Flowmaster (and to a lesser degree Gibson), they’re not super load.
As for exhaust systems hurting your truck’s low end performance, that’s only true if the kit you buy isn’t sized for your truck. If you buy a cat-back kit from Borla or Gibson (or anyone else, really), that cat-back kit will be tuned to add power to your truck across the board.
Finally, if you’re adding an exhaust system to a pickup, consider side exits rather than rear exits. That way your hot exhaust doesn’t blow over whatever you might tow.
Forgive me father for I have sinned. My truck does not have a towing hitch. Granted I have two trucks. One has about 156k miles all towing, ford f150 flareside with a 351 windsor and a thrush exhaust. The thrush is okay…I would have liked it to be a considerable amount louder and wish it had a nicer tone. Still louder and meaner than my Ram’s exhaust, thats for damn sure.
I do mean to go for loud, deep, and aggressive tone, but not obnoxious like those ricer cars or some redneck rig, you know?
So do you recommend (sound, cost, and performance wise) true dual, y pipe dual, or single pipe exhaust?
Dan – I like true dual setups with a cross pipe. Great way to balance the tone and get the deep rumble. As for brand, I think Borla has the market cornered on “moderate” sound, as most systems are designed to be loud.
If you don’t want to break the bank and still have the aggressive sound just buy a muffler and take to a shop and get a cut and weld job. You can find a decent magnaflow or flowmaster muffler for under $100 and pay a shop $50-$75 to install it. Make sure you check the diameter of your stock exhaust and the inlet and outlet position to match them up. For a dual exhaust you can double the price of the single muffler and install and add the cost of the extra piping you will need. I use the name brand aftermarket muffler kits you can buy as a reference to see what piping will be needed when you build it yourself.
hello there, I have a 2003 chevy silverado 4.8 all stock & im looking into putting a flowmaster 40 series muffler on it but im very confused on what piping i need to go with! Im reading that going too big will cause a decrease in power & fuel economy & with gas prices how they are right now, thats the last thing i need. would a single 3′ in /3′ be too much? i believe the stock piping is right around 2.5′ on these chevys. What piping would you recomend i go with?
I have an 318i that i swapped completely to an m3 95 (engine and everything) and I put in a double piped exhaust instead of the single that was already there. My pipes are 2″ and it seems as my sound just got way too deep, it resounds in my car and is uncomfortable to drive with and was wondering if I might have also lost power at the same time.
Hello. I have a 2005 gmc 1500 Sierra crew cab with a 4.8L v8 engine. I am looking to put an exhaust system on it with dual outputs, but I’m afraid that since it is a smaller v8 engine, that it won’t sound good (will sound kind of weak)
What are your thoughts?
Colton – V8’s almost always sound great – the worst case is that the tone won’t be as deep as some other V8s, but your engine will still sound better than most V6s and not noticeably different than a 5.3L (which I know sounds excellent). Go for it.
Hey Jason, I have a 2006 Chrysler 300C with a 5.7 HEMI. It currently sounds like a dead old cadillac sedan and I want it to sound like the hemi v8 it is. What would you say about cutting out the stock resonators and running straight pipes with 4″ tips? Will that give the engine some rumble? It comes with stock dual exhaust.
Tyler – It’s all about the muffler. If you need to modify your exhaust on the cheap, you could cut out the stock system and go with straight pipes, but I wouldn’t recommend it. If you can’t go with a cat-back system, just pickup a set of generic mufflers and swap them out with the stock units. You’ll get a nice boost in sound and perhaps even a little boost in performance.
I’m not a fan of straight pipes. They’re illegal and they’re really, really loud…a good set of mufflers will get you the sound you’re looking for without breaking the law or annoying your neighbors.
i have a 1998 volvo v70r. i have stock exhaust. its 2.25″ single pipe back to two mufflers, and it exhausts a single outlet off the passenger side. these cars have an additional cutout on the driver side with a dummy cover on it. plenty of guys want the look of the dual exhaust tips coming off the back. i like the look too, but i care more about performance than aesthetics.
my desire is to get an 18t turbo (stock is a 16t) and an IPD downpipe, which is 3″ off the turbo to 2.5″ after the cat. i am thinking of having a custom 2.5″ pipe all the way back to a single muffler and perhaps a resonator and port the single exhaust out the driver side only. this is the straightest exit. what do you think of this idea? is this going to be real noisy? i like the sound of nice pipes, but am not crazy about the ricer boy sound. does it make a difference to remove the cat? your thoughts?
whats going to give me optimal performance? should i stick with dual exhaust and have dual exits? i like the idea of saving some weight & cost and having a simpler more sleeper like look.
Austen – You’re running a turbocharged engine, which means exhaust system performance is a lot more critical for you than it is for someone with a normally aspirated vehicle.
One of the keys to maximizing turbocharged exhaust systems is to provide plenty of “extra” capacity for times when the engine is at WOT, as your engine (a 2.5L 5 cylinder I believe) will generate as much exhaust as a V8. Therefore, I would *not* recommend going with a single exit. Dual exhaust systems provide more throughput, and the additional tubing isn’t a negative.
I’m replacing the exhaust system on my 96 civic, I have the header and catalytic converter. The outlet pipe size for both is 2″, the rest of the system that I’m looking to get has 2.5″ piping to the muffler. Can I connect the 2″ cat. with the 2.5″ pipe. I don’t know if the answer is an obvious no or if what I’ve been told by others (that it can work) is true. Any advice or thoughts are appreciated. Thanks a lot.
Michael – It can definitely work, but if you’re adding a header, you might as well add a performance cat to go with it…they can be pretty affordable.
Check this page out: https://www.exhaustvideos.com/faq/catalytic-converter-replacement/
I also have a civic and I was wonder if the setup I have is fine or.I should change it I have I 95 civic with a 1.6 DOHC I have a 4 to 1 header with a 2.5 inch outlet Magnaflow 2.0 inch hi-flo catalytic converter following with a 2.25 exhaust pipe. My question is that is the Cat. I have fine or should I use a bigger Cat. I think I need to go bigger tho
Angel – Take a look at your horsepower on our exhaust system tube size chart – there are plenty of links to that page in the comments. Your setup sounds a little big to me.
I just bought a 2010 Dodge Charger SXT 3.5L, I want to put a dual exhaust system on it. I was planning to buy an exhaust system from MagnaFlow but i want the loudest Exhaust System I can get. Its a dual cat back exhaust built for the car but can I make it louder than what it already is??
Jonathan – There’s no easy way to make an exhaust louder, but a Magnaflow exhaust has never been accused of being too quiet. If you’re really trying to make some noise, you might look at a custom system from your local shop…just consider the fact that a custom system is more likely to sound like a V6 than a cat-back system (which might sound more like a V8).
what do you recommend for a 2012 charger rt max.v8 dual exaust
Ruben – I have two thoughts:
1. If you’ve got a cool new car like that, I’d go with either a system from MOPAR or a cat-back system from Borla. No point in going cheap! 🙂
2. Don’t mess with it. The factory exhaust is pretty excellent.
I drive a 1993 oldsmobile Bravada and i was wondering what kind of muffler i should use to give it a loud deep sound?
Nate – If your SUV has a V8, any after-market muffler will give you the type of sound you’re looking for. If you want something really loud, you want to look into generic mufflers from Magnaflow or Flowmaster.
If your SUV has a V6, the only chance you’ve got at a loud and deep exhaust note is a custom cat-back system. Fortunately, there are a few systems available for Blazers with the V6, and the Blazer’s exhaust system is almost certainly identical to what you have on your rig. Good luck.
I have a 99 Blazer with stock exhaust pipes and cat. I put a Flowmaster Super 44 on it and it sounds great.
Hey. I have a 2007 v8 5.3L chevy. Right now I have single exhaust with a flowmaster. I want to convert my truck to duel exhaust and put another flowmaster on. Is this a good idea for my truck? How will it effect my pulling power for pulling horse trailer and how will it effect my gas mileage? I’ve heard that it kills pulling power and gas but then I heard it doesn’t hurt anythin.
I think “kill” is a bit of an overstatement, but more exhaust system isn’t always better.
However, in this case, a dual exhaust is likely OK, provided you don’t go with mufflers that are too big.
My advice would be to invest in a cat-back system designed for your truck, as that will ensure you add power and still get great sound. Magnaflow, Flowmaster, Borla, and a few others offer kits for your truck, so you should be able to find something you like.
hey. i have a 06 300c hemi and was wondering if i could put an electric exhaust cutout, what effects would it have on the car.
thanks
jasonv – Cutouts have no effect until they’re activated. At that point, I think the performance benefits are a bit dubious. However, they sound cool, so if you have the money and the interest go for it. 🙂
Very informative article! One thing I was wondering though, as I am not very mechanically inclined: Will a dual exhaust setup rob my 2007 Mustang V6 of power? I was quoted by my local shop for $350 to tap into the original single pipe to make the second exhaust. Thanks in advance for your help!
Brandon – It won’t rob power, but it won’t add much either. However, it will look good and give you a more even sound.
I just bought a 2004 tahoe and it has 3” tubing on single exhaust with the stock muffler if i take the muffler out and put a straight piece in will it take my power away
John – It probably won’t take away power, but it might reduce low-end torque.
More the to the point, a cheap performance muffler is less than $150. Why are you messing with a straight pipe? All you need is one noise ordinance ticket and you’ll wish you’d spent the money on a muffler…
i had true duals on my last one it was a 99 i like a little sound and whats on it now puts off a little i really want y’d offs just dont want to pay for it
I understand. I’m not a fan of straight pipes, mostly because they don’t add power and they often result in noise tickets. If it was me, I’d wait. 🙂
i think i am im really just looking for anything that gives me more power
Gotcha. Cat-back is best, especially if paired with an air intake and a performance programmer…and a supercharger! LOL.
i have a bully dog power pup set on high performance and it makes a differance can i put the same cold air intake that was in my 99 tahoe on this one
I have a 96 Silverado 305 Vortec with looks like 2″ dual into 3″ right before single cat which has been gutted and 3″ out down to 2 1/2″ split dropping back down into 2″ duals which drops off right behind the rear axle. Does it need to be 2 1/2″ all the way out from the cat. Just seems like to much dropping down in size.
Layton – I’m not sure what you mean when you say the cat has been gutted, but my recommendation would be
1) Catalytic converters do not negatively effect performance unless you have forced induction. The cat does, however, reduce pollution and carbon monoxide (which is lethal to inhale in even small amounts). So first I would make sure your cats are operating as required by law.
2) Pipe size changes aren’t inherently bad, but the connectors used to neck up and neck down can be a choke point. If they’re sloppy connections, they can create turbulence in the exhaust stream and increased backpressure. Unless all those sizing joints are factory (and that doesn’t sound correct), I would recommend minimizing connectors and being as consistent in pipe size as you can be.
3) Finally, having said all of this, none of the issues caused by connectors, sizing, etc. effect truck owners too much. You want your truck to make power at low RPMs, and most exhaust systems are more than adequate at these lower engine speeds. It’s only when you get to higher RPMs that these little issues start to have a measurable effect.
Jason,
I haven’t done anything with my exhaust yet except replace the donut gaskets and while I was doing that I noticed the cat had come loose so I welded it back. While I had it off I noticed it had been cleaned out, (Gutted), nothing but an empty shell. Will have money in a few weeks to replace the whole exhaust system. The cat looks like 3″ out so thinking maybe a muffler with 3″ in dual 2 1/2″ out all the way back and drop it just over the rear axle. Of course I will have to do something bout the cat as well or just leave it even tho there’s nothing in it????
Layton – You definitely want to do something about those empty cats (at least if you have to pass emissions at some point) but as far as going from a single to a dual, I like going dual all the way back…can you get a cat-back kit specifically for your vehicle? That’s always the best way to go in terms of performance.
I ended up going with a Thrush welded 3″ inlet with dual 2 1/2″ outlet all the way back. I have used thrush before and always liked them. Right now I don’t have my tailpipes turned down yet and they are loud on acceleration by quieten down on highway. Pretty loud inside the cab. I have 8 ft. of 2 1/2″ pipe from the muffler back. The pipe is 2 ft. sections. Do I need to take out the last 4 feet and drop down to a 2 1/4″ or can I can quieten it down somehow at the tips or the turn down. I will be turning it down just over the rear axle. It seems like I’ve lost some of my power, too.
Thanx
Layton – A reduction in pipe size isn’t likely to reduce volume, at least not much. The muffler is the best place to look if the system is too loud.
Having said that, using side exits with the tips pointed down seems to help reduce sound levels.
In the last 1 yr and 1/2 after reading up on and studying aerodynamics and engine performance I have managed to bring 305 vortec up from 16 1/2 mpg to 23.2 mpg but since I’ve added my new exhaust I have some of that mpg. Haven’t checked it lately but can tell I’ve lost some of my mpg. Not much, tho. I don’t have a lot of money so everything I have done has been the poor man’s way.
Cold air intake made out of 3″ pvc pipe. Routed to right behind radiator on driver’s side.
Relocated mass air flow sensor to the right side of the radiator fan and mounted it to my alt. which is where it seemed to draw the most air and the hottest air. Supposedly the hotter the air the less gas used. By doing this, supposedly it tricks the computer into to thinking the air is hotter than what is actually coming in. Believe it or not it actually worked. MPG went up.
Lowered the front end by going with smaller tires. Better highway MPG.
You will have to see this one. So far everyone likes it but I made my own hood scoop out of an old riding lawn mower hood.
It has the vents in the top but I also vent it through the end next to the windshield.
After testing it I have never seen a hood scoop do like this one.
When I take off it pushes air out the end but sucks it in at the top and I have a divider between the two blocking one from the other. Anyway, once the truck has shifted out and at a steady speed the air flow reverses itself. Blows out the top and sucks in thru the end. But hey, it works.
Also, removed the rear O2 sensor from the exhaust and strapped it to the top of the frame underneath the truck. Theory I read was it picks up outside fresh air and even tho the cat has been cleaned, removed, etc. it trickes the computer into thinking the cat is stil there and fuctioning properly.
All in all with all these little tricks I can they do work cause I have seen it in my MPG and performance.
Cool – thanks for sharing all that info. Neat to see someone working on their ride this way.
With the air intake behind the radiator/grille sucking in hot air and the MAF relocated detecting air from the fan tricking the computer into thinking more air is coming than actually is I’m sure it’s runing pretty lean. But hey, at 24 mpg I’m not complaining. When I can punch it in the curve getting on the onramp to the freeway fish tailing the rear that’s a little more performance than I wanted at 51 yrs. old but hey, live it up while I can. lol
Another trick I learned that does work I got from a forum I was reading, if you take out the rear O2 sensor and strap it to the top of the frame somewhere underneath it will detect the fresh outside air and trick the computer into thinking the cat is working properly. It seems to be working anyway.
Also, and you’ve may have seen discussions on this, but a quart of transmission fluid into your gas tank does work and will increase mpg enough you will see a difference. I saw an engine that was tore down with 200,000 plus miles and it look almost like it had just been rebuilt. I knew the man and always wondered why he did that but he swore by the transmission fluid in the gas bout once a month. He said he bought the truck brand new in 76 and it was 2 or 3 yrs ago when he had it rebuilt and only then cause his son took it out of state, ran it out of water and kept driving til he blew the motor. As far as my truck, it’s not the fastest in the world but it’s certainly faster than it was designed to be and great mpg for 230,000 miles. It’s taken me almost 2 yrs to get mine where it is today as far as perfomance and mpg but maybe it will help someone lese improve their vehicle.
Layton – The lean condition is risky if you’re hearing knocks or pings, but if not than it’s probably OK…but based on everything you’ve said, I’d be worried about it a little bit.
Also, while the transmission fluid in the gas tank is a good trick for keeping an engine clean, it’s also corrosive to your seals and gaskets. Therefore, I’d limit the number of times you do that to once every year or so. Too often and you’ll start blowing oil.
Never mind on making my exhaust quiter. I used my old stock 45’s for the drop downs but I turned them out the side. I think the are 2 1/4″ and probly 2 each at the bends. I cut them down to fit and cut 2 of down to 6″ length overall cause being 45’s I needed to turn them just enough to shoot them out the side. Then I extended them on out with the longer ones. Sounds great with just a little rumble on acceleration and at steady speeds you can’t hardly hear them at all. Performance is even better. Guess it created just enough back pressure to get my power back. It took away all the roaring noise in the cab. I have close to 100 miles city driving so won’t know what my highway mileage is til I run this tank out and fill it back up then I will check it on all highway driving. Hoping it’s back up to 23 mpg. As far as my hood scoop, I tell everyone I have a 305 Vortec with a Murray 18 hp hood induction. lol
I forgot to mention also, I learned that if you remove the rubber seal between the hood and the wipers it will give you better and faster throttle response which also gives you better mpg. It helps get rid of some of the air resistance under the hood. In my case I had to leave part of it since my distributor is in the center on the back of the motor. I left just enough of it to keep the distr. from getting wet when it rains. The results will shock you, tho, promise.
96 Silverado / 305 vortec
A few months ago I had to replace the head gaskets. Putting the distributor in and setting timing by the mechanic couldn’t get the computer to trim it back to 0TDC where it’s supposed to be. It was
-44. After several attempts he line everything up, pulled the
distributor, advanced it one tooth which advanced to to 11 over. The specs calls for + or – 2. We had to leave it. So, it’s only 9 degrees over the specs. Look at it this way, like having a power chip without buying one.
Went back and changed my exhaust. Went with single 3″ pipe just behind the cab, Mufler with single 3″ in 2 1/2″ duals out stopping above the rear axle then out the sides with 2 1/4″ with 2 1/2″ tips. Sounds great.
The 2 1/2″ tips is all the pipe I had left so I thought why not. lol
Relocated MAF closer to radiator fan
Cold air intake right behind grill next to radiator
Hood scoop (removed the baffle I built between the top vents and end vents) seemed to help
Removed all the rubber seal at the back of the hood (releasing some of the resistance under the hood)
Lowered front end 1″ using smaller tires (235/75R/15 down to 215/70R/15)
Final Results; 24.3 mpg
Layton – Very interesting. Are you running lean?
Don’t know how lean I’m running if any. It’s not pinging or clattering. It does however have 10 times the throttle response and it used to have. From a dead stop at the bottom of an overpass I can punch it and will hit 60-65 by the time I top the overpass. It’s never done that before. And that’s on an uphill climb. I ran it through the 1/4 but only made it 3/4 the way through cause the computer shuts it down at 95. It’s never had the air dam under the front bumper since I’ve owned the truck but the bolts are there and I’m thinking bout installing one. Don’t know how much that will help the mpg but maybe it’ll be enough to push it on up to 25 mpg. At last check it was getting 23.9. I get anywhere from 23.6 to 24+.
Great and informative article! Do you have any opinions about placing a set of dual mufflers at the end of the exhaust near the tips vs. in the middle as far as sound?
I was told that placing them close to the end of the exhaust takes all the rumble/power sound away since it doesn’t have as far to travel. They even suggested replacing the dual mufflers with a single muffler that has dual inlets and dual outlets to give it more “exhaust swirl” and thus it adds to the power sound.
My car has dual resonators and dual mufflers so I can put them in either place. I’m looking for a deep rumble but as little interior resonance and drone as possible.
Thanks!
Journey – I’ve never heard anything to suggest the sound quality of the exhaust system varies greatly as a result of muffler placement. Motorcycles, for example, have very short exhaust runs, but their mufflers can be tuned to offer a variety of sounds.
As for dual in-dual out vs a true dual sounding better, it depends on the size of your motor. If you’re driving a V6, my opinion is that a single muffler is best, as combustion in a V6 is unbalanced and a cross-pipe or shared muffler can improve sound.
In terms of performance, sharing a muffler may or may not be better…it really depends on the mufflers, the size of your pipes, etc. To say that dual in-dual out mufflers are always more powerful than a true dual setup is incorrect.
As for my recommendation, it would be to purchase a cat-back system designed for your vehicle. All catback systms are tuned to your specific application and tend to sound better than systems that are assembled piecemeal.
I have a scion fr-s it has a flat 4 boxer motor and i want to delete the muffler and resonator to give it some sound right now its to quiet will this make the car more efficient? and will i gain anything from this? and also will this hurt the car in any way?
matt – It won’t hurt the car at all to add an after-market exhaust system, provided that you add one which is designed for the FR-S. My advice would be to look at systems available from TRD as well as the after-market…and rest assured, if you don’t see a lot of systems now, you will. That car is hot and the after-market companies are working feverishly to get exhaust systems ready.
hey i have an 01 motorhome with a 454 7.4 liter engine. cats started to plug up so i took them off…since then the mileage dropped 1.5 mpg’s…..oxygen sencors are forward of the cats so that is not a problem….has 2 inch in to the cats and 3 out….that is stock…should i put large headers on this to balance it out?? i just don’t get it
jim – Cats create backpressure that aids in cylinder scavenging. When you remove them, you can make your vehicle less efficient, as the designer accounted for them when they tuned the vehicle.
I would reinstall them – check out https://www.exhaustvideos.com/faq/catalytic-converter-replacement/ for some deals.
Hi, on my 2005 Police Interceptor, the 2v 4.6L v8, i deleted 2 of the 4 cats on this baby, and switched to Flowmaster Delta Thunders, while retaining the factory SS 2″ exhaust pipes, and 2 SS 12″ long 3″ diameter tips out the back. Sounds amazing.
However, it has a factory H pipe, would i be better off replacing that with a X pipe instead?
And possibly moving up to 2 1/4″ pipe? Got some modifications done to the motor so it isn’t stock, but its not some garage queen, its still my DD.
Not too worried about top end, as i don’t see over 100 very often ( unless i am out at the track ) but coming off of lights, and accelerating from say 30mph, or passing someone on the highway, is there a specific exhaust set up that is proven to provide more ambitious gains of low end performance increase instead of the top end? This car is 4025lbs of steel. When coming off a red light, or making a turn, or exiting a corner at the track, it seems the “power” doesn’t kick in until 2000rpm, then you can feel it push you back in your seat, i’m hoping to make this “butter zone” happen at lower rpm’s, is this something exhaust can help me with? Or do i need to go shell out 400 smackaroons for a SCT tuner?
Dave – As far as I know, an H pipe and an X pipe are the same in all respects.
As for off-the-line performance, stock exhaust pipe diameters are typically a little better…the bigger pipes are only necessary at higher RPMs and/or when you’ve dramatically added power (like adding a supercharger).
Finally, the RPM where the power seems to kick in can be adjusted with a programmer.
I need some help I bought a f-150 v-6 2012 fx-2 ford and looking to upgrade the exhaust system can u tell me what I should go with. Not looking for loud noise just something that sounds good and u cant hardly here it in the cabin. Looking at mbrp with magnaflow # 12588 and a resinator # 14719 . I dont know if i should go with dual or single as of know its single from factory and wasnt going to change to true dual.
Rusk – Sticking with a single exhaust is a good idea on a V6, but there aren’t a lot of options for V6 exhaust system that don’t sound tinny (at least to my ear). My suggestion? Go to your local muffler shop and ask them to put on a replacement that’s a little louder than stock. They’ll set you up with a generic brand muffler that sounds better than stock for less than $200.
If you go with a muffler and resonator you pick out of the catalog, you’re taking a bit of risk…if the mufflers are too loud, your V6 will sound more like a 4cylinder.
Hi I have a 99 silverado z71 with the 5.3 (70000) Kim’s on motor it has true dual exhaust a 3 inch lift 285/75/16 tires the mufflers are bottles more or less jus thrush glass packs and it has 2″ piping from headers back I need a decent muffler that dual in dual out..as the pipes are up close and personal and no I don’t want a kit a I have a cold air intake throttle body spacer and more for the truck and light speed innovations in red deer Alberta Canada it gonna tune the motor for power and fuel economy (tune the power curve)
Dakota – Any generic use muffler will work. They’re all pretty similar in terms of performance.
i have an 03 gmc sierra z71 5.3…its single exhaust and im wanting to make it dual with 2 borla s type mufflers…good idea or bad?..and should i cancel the cats our or leave it? thanks
Zeb – Modern catalytic converters have very little impact on performance, especially on a stock motor. The only time they hurt performance, in fact, is when they’re clogged and need to be replaced.
As for going from single to dual, the key is to go with the right size. See https://www.exhaustvideos.com/faq/how-to-calculate-muffler-size-pipe-diameter/ for info on choosing the proper pipe diameter.
I currently have a 2008 Dodge ram 1500 5.7L Hemi 2WD, and I have a K&N CAI, and a single in and single out Flowmaster 50 series muffler on with the stock resonator on my truck. I truly have been thinking about spending the money at a welding shop to have a Y pipe put on my muffler and put dual exhaust coming out the back end. Would that be a waste of money? If not, any idea a general price range to get that done? I have not looked up prices yet…
John – I can’t say for sure, but my guess is that it’s cheaper to just buy a new muffler than it is to cut and weld one.
More to the point, if you start cutting into a muffler, you’re probably going to screw up whatever performance tuning it has…I’d suggest getting a new single in dual out muffler if you really want duals, but to be honest it won’t make much difference over what you have now in terms of performance or fuel economy.
I’d stick with what you’ve got! 😉
have a small block jasper chevy engine 5.7 with a holley weiland 171 super charger pushing at least 500 hp i also have a 12 bolt chevy moser rearend and a 6 speed richmond transmission i have dual exhaust no cats but have two cherry bomb mufflers and have hedders my pipes are 2 1/4 thick pipes not sure if i should go bigger or not takes off all like a bullet dont wanna screw up performance but think my pipes are to small what do u think i should do?
William – See the chart on this page: https://www.exhaustvideos.com/faq/how-to-calculate-muffler-size-pipe-diameter/
If you’ve got a 500hp engine, you need 2 1/2″ exhaust tubing or perhaps 2 3/4″. If you want to preserve low end and don’t care as much about top end, than I’d go with the 2.5″ pipes. If you’re looking for better overall performance in the quarter mile, my guess is 2 3/4″ is best.
I have a 2001 f150 4.6l v8, with its original single exhaust. I am looking for a cheap way to make it sound throatier with added performance with duels. Any suggestions?
Hunter – You can probably get more performance and better sound WITHOUT installing a dual exhaust. The biggest restriction in an exhaust system is the muffler. If you replace the stock muffler with an inexpensive aftermarket muffler, you’ll get more sound and a little more power.
Also, since your vehicle is more than 8 years of age, it’s a good idea to check the catalytic converter and make sure it’s not clogged.
Ok, that helps but I really like the look of duals. What do you have to say about glass packs?
Glass packs are fine, provided you get them from a reputable company. If you go really cheap (you can get them for as little as $20 each) they can blow out on you.
Magnaflow makes some universals that cost less than $50 a piece, and they’ll make your truck loud like a race car. As far as power, you’ll see a slight bump…the best way to add power is to go with a tuned cat-back exhaust system. However, I’m not sure that there are a lot of tuned systems for the 4.6L and I’m not convinced they’re worth the cost. Might be better to go with an inexpensive pair of mufflers and invest in a tuner instead.
I don’t want “race car” loud, but people keep tellin me glass packs are the cheap way to go for a deep tone.
Hunter – Glass packs are cheap for a reason…they’re pretty loud. But it’s all relative of course. At my current age (I’m 33), I might say they’re a little too loud. Ten years ago I would have loved them and said they were perfect.
My advice is to go with a decent quality muffler from Magnaflow or Flowmaster – you’ll get good tone without spending a lot, but you won’t have to worry about it being too loud. The mufflers cost $150-$200.
I have a 1997 K1500 with a 350vortec. It has factory 2″ true duals all the way to the muffler and 3″ out the back. Each bank has a Cat. today I put on a flowmaster 50 series delta dual 2-1/4″ in/out and it is dumped right after the muffler. I noticed a huge difference in my low end torque after and bow it seems sluggish and doesnt make it through the hills around here anymore without down shifting. Would it help to put a 2-14″ – 3″ Y-pipe after the muffler and finish the exhaust out the back or what? Any ideas would help
The difference I meant was a decrease in low end torque.
John – The “butt dyno” is inherently unreliable…my only advice is to do a before and after dyno test.
Also, use caution when dumping your exhaust after the muffler. See this page for more details: https://www.exhaustvideos.com/faq/dump-exhaust-system-early-after-the-muffler/
I have an infiniti i30 1996 and i need help on my exhaust system. One of my freinds told me to get a y pipe. What do you reccamend for my car and do you sell any products for it? thanks for your help
-joe
Joe – No idea, and unfortunately we do not sell mufflers either. As for a y-pipe, I’m a fan of adding them to any V6.
I have a 1999 mercury cougar v6 and my car had 2 mufflers on it. I thought it was too quiet so I called a muffler shop and he told me to bring the car in and he would take off both mufflers and put pipe in it’s place. He said it was the best and cheapest way to make my car louder. A couple days ago I have been noticing a loss in low end torque it’s a lot slower off the line. Do u think getting rid of the mufflers made this happen or what?
Aaron – That’s certainly possible, but a loss of power would have been noticed right after this modification was made. If you’re feeling a power loss now – and it’s been some time since the mufflers were deleted – the problem is elsewhere.
Generally, however, deleting your mufflers is a bad idea. It rarely boosts performance, and it increases the chances you’ll get a ticket for noise violations.
I had the torque loss right after he did the muffler delete. I love the sound of the exhaust it’s not very loud but has a nice low growl. I would like to have my torque back but I don’t know how to go about doing it without spending a ton of money.
Aaron – Got it. You don’t need to spend much…just get the shop to add a couple of glasspacks (or other inexpensive muffler they have) and then a y-pipe to give you the best tone. It should cost $150-250 including parts and labor, and you’ll get the low-end power back.
i have a 05 chevy 1500 and looking at getting duals i dont want too loud or too quiet a nice deep tone but not sure what to get put on.
dylan – Borla is known for producing top-quality exhaust systems that are neither too loud nor too quiet, and don’t have a lot of drone either.
TR6, I have a MONZA free flow exhaust on my 69 TR6, looks nice but way too loud, would adding a resonator closer to the front help mellow down this sound? thanks
Rob – No idea.
Rob – it doesn’t matter where the resonator is cause the exhaust is still gonna flow through it maybe put 2 resonators on it 1 right after the cats and on about 6″ before the muffler if you can
I have a 2011 F250 with a 6.2L. I recently had a duel exhaust system installed with (2) flow master 40s and 3″ pipe. Is there any foreseen issues I may have?
NellyMorse – No issues, but you might find that you lost a little bit of low-end torque if you dyno’d it.
I have a 99 chev z71 new body style with true duals 5.3l engine and I need to temporarily hold my exhaust tips on till I weld them on, on Monday today is Friday please help (not using clamps or I’ll never be able to remove the tips)
Dakota – This probably isn’t the answer you’re looking for, but I’d wait until Monday. If one of the tips falls off while you’re on the highway, it’s as good as gone.
Hi, I have a ford edge, with a 3.5L V6, I already have a K&N intake with an SCT custom tune, But I was looking at upgrading the exhaust to a magnaflow cat-back system to increase the flow, but my main question is should I replace the whole system or just put better mufflers on? I would want to stay very close to the stock pipe diameter so I wont lose low end power, and I know doing this will make it louder, but how much?
Kelton – The cat-back systems offer more power, but the difference between just replacing the mufflers and going with a full cat-back isn’t huge. I’ve never seen any real data to suggest a full cat-back is good for more than 10hp (with testing on my own to match), and I’ve seen evidence that a muffler can add 3-5 hp all by itself.
Therefore, the difference between a full cat-back and a muffler is a few HP (single digits in all likelihood).
Having said that, cat-back systems are also tuned for sound. If you go with an off-the-shelf muffler, you might not be as happy about the exhaust note.
Decisions, decisions…good luck.
Have a 99 Ford Taurus with a 3.0L V-6. Ok, now that your done laughing, I want this car to be unique. Unfortuantely since I don’t have 12 grand to sink into it to turn it into a race car, I have opted (for now) to just swap mufflers (catback to come hopefully). Need ideas since I have no idea what type of muffler to throw on. Everyone has a v8 which is hard to mess up exhaust notes on or a 4 cylinder which just ends up droning. Droning is my biggest fear and I have no idea how a little v6 will sound. Suggestions??
Oh, I might add that I have a cold air intake and I have also removed the intake silencer on my Taurus.
Adam – No laughing on my end. It’s far better to modify that car than to leave it as-is. My only advice is to add a cross pipe. V6 combustion is inherently unbalanced, so you get a better exhaust note when you connect both sides of the exhaust system to one another. Provided you go with a muffler that’s only moderately loud you’ll get a decent sound (don’t got with the big performance muffler or you’ll be sorry).
For inspiration, check out V6 Mustang exhaust systems on the 99-05 model. They don’t sound too bad.
cross pipe as in an H or X pipe right?
Right.
ok, where would a cross pipe go on a single exhaust though?
I thought that the purpose of a cross pipe was to build an exhuast
system that looks like a dual but isn’t actually one….
Adam – My bad. I assumed you were adding a dual. If you’re going to stick with the single exhaust, I’d recommend a performance exhaust system that advertises itself as “quiet”. Not sure what fits a 99 Taurus, so you’ll have to look around to find it. But I know that DynoMax has some Walker quiet-flow mufflers that offer good sound and good performance.
I have a 54 chevy wagon with a weld on port for dual or single y flow exhaust…old exhaust original and falling down…would a dual system be ok for it? orignal 235 engine
Ray – Single will probably have better performance, but I’m not sure it will be noticeable on an old 235. Follow your heart! 🙂
I have a 2007 chevy with a flowmaster, I recently noticed my truck has a flex pipe, will a flex pipe effect the loudness of my flowmaster and what are some pros and cons of a flex pipe and is it necessary ?, no one around here has rarely ever seen one and I’ve heard they wear out to easy
mick – As far as I know, flexpipe has no (or almost no) impact on sound. As for pros and cons, flex pipe is likely to leak sooner than regular tubing, and it’s also creating a little more drag in the exhaust system, so it may be effecting power in an oh-so-small way. I’m not sure that I’d recommend replacing it right away or anything, but next time you’re upgrading the exhaust system it’s a good idea to get rid of it.
i have 1998 chevy tahoe with no catylic converters and no mufflers true duals and it has 5 by 18 inch tips what would happen if i put 1 1/2 inch pipe from the manifold back?
Just bought a 2012 300c with 5.7 liter engine. What exhaust system would you recommend? Will adding a new exhaust void my warrenty?
Flow master 70 series axle back sounds nice alone with a magnaflow street series both are throaty and nice deep and rumble tones but if you buy the kit and get it installed at a by aechamic it will not I repeat NOT void your warranty but if you do it your self or by anyone who not a mechanic or welder it will void it
I have a 2004 Camry 3liter v6. Stock the car has about 210hp.. If I went with a catback system I know I won’t pick up too much hp but what system would sound the nicest? A little throatier but not with a constant ricey drone at cruising speeds is what I’m looking for.
im thinking of buying a new exhaust for my 2007 vw polo gti 1.8 turbo, are the backpressures different for turbo cars and n/a cars?
I have a 2010 Challenger with a V6 3.5 litre engine,single exhaust.Can I put a stock 2010 R/T Challenger (with manual trans) dual exhaust system on the V6 without having a negative effect on throttle response,low end torque or performance?
The single exhaust is a 2.5 inch system with a large mid-muffler and the usual resonator at the rear.The dual system is the same diameter pipes,I believe,but has mufflers and resonators on each side.There is an “H” pipe at the front of the system.The mid-mufflers are small compared to the original single exhaust muffler.
I am more after the dual exhaust look out the back and prefer factory parts but do not want to hinder any stock performance.
I note that the 2011 and up V6 Challengers have a similar true dual exhaust system.
Thanks for any help and suggestions.
Hi,
I’m shopping around for an after-market exhaust system for my 98 Dodge Ram 1500 5.2L. I want a nice, low rumble. The volume isn’t much of a concern, but I know that going with an after-market exhaust will increase the volume. What would you recommend?
I’ve got some thoughts about the exhaust system for a diesel. First of all I must give you credits for your knowledge and helpfulness, Jason. I’ve read everything on this page thoroughly, and virtually every comment and every response. There’s still some things I wonder though.
It’s regarding a 4.0 V8 diesel twin turbo.
As stock it came with true dual exhaust system with dual catalytic converters(1 on each downpipe ofc), after that both pipes joined into one large particulate filter(which aswell works as a resonator?), after that the pipes split up again into 1 muffler on each side.
I have removed the particulate filter and replaced it with straight pipes, dual pipes from one end to the other. Thus the exhaust system does no longer have a crossover section there, as it had before. The mufflers after the particulate filter where replaced with straight pipes aswell. The replacing pipes has the same diameter as the stock pipes has otherwise.
How important is “back-pressure” for a turbocharged(twinturbo) diesel engine?
Does NOT having a crossover section affect performance? (Would I gain more from having a crossover X- or H-pipe?)
Does removing the mufflers affect performance? (Some say I lose back pressure which in turn makes me lose both throttle response and power/torque.)
To which extent can I increase the size of the pipes in order to gain performance? (They are quite large even stock, I think the downpipes are dual 3″(or 2.5″) and then the pipes narrows to dual 2.5″(or 2″).)
Will I be able to gain any performance by removing the stock cats?(By replacing with either sports/race cats or straight pipes)
My goal is to optimize the exhaust system for performance.
Erik – Your question inspired a blog post – see https://www.exhaustvideos.com/2186/diesel-exhaust-system-performance-questions/
i have a 99 infiniti q45 V8, my car has a single exhaust system with 2 pipes, i was looking to put a dual exhaust but i have to customize it by taking off the stock muffler, i was told at a muffler shop that since my car has 2 cats in the front and 2 resonators in the middle that they could run 2 pipes from where they cut the muffler out and weld pipes out to make it dual exhaust, would this hurt my performance? would it sound loud?
Manny – I don’t like straight pipes (they’re very loud and a great way to get a noise ordinance ticket) and they do hurt power, just like the article above says. If your muffler shop adds a couple of decent performance mufflers, you’ll be OK…just remember, exhaust mods aren’t worth more than a few HP. Don’t spend big-bucks on mufflers if you’re hoping for a big increase in power.
hey, I have a Toyota Celica 91, it has aftermarket extractors which attach to my cannon exhaust. i was wondering if it would sound or be worth it to cut off a part of the extractors so it has 2 pipes, then run straights or dual exhausts off that?
thanks
Kurt – See my comments above regarding the low-end torque implications of straight pipes. I don’t know what it would sound like.
i have a 2001 integra gs, stock exhaust. I just wanted to know something..if my inlet is 2.25, is it okay if i buy an aftermarket muffler with an inlet of 2.5 or does it have to be exactly 2.25?
Hussein – Doesn’t have to be the same size. Just bear in mind that you’ll have to do more work to make it fit.
I have a 2000 Mitsubishi eclipse 5-speed 4-cylinder. I want to make it sound deeper and more like a truck I guess is there anything you could recommend?
Zach – Short of swapping out that 4-cylinder for a V8, I don’t have any ideas…it’s impossible to make a 4 sound like an 8.
Hey Jason, I have a 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee with a 4.7 H.O. . The stock single exhaust is 2.5 inches in diameter and about 5 months ago I had a Magnaflow muffler installed. It made a pretty big difference in power output because the stock muffler was very restrictive. I also have a performace chip plugged into the ODB-2 sensor port that advances the engines timing for 50+ hp and a K&N air filter. I was wondering if I have the shop install 3 inch pipe from the dual cat’s back to a 3 inch Magnaflow and out the rear. Would a half inch increase in the single exhaust degrade my Jeep’s performance?
Albert – Short answer? Probably. If you’ve removed the factory muffler, you’ve fixed 90% of the problem. If I were you, I’d spend money on something else, like suspension, brakes, or tunes. Buying a new set of pipes *might* gain you 2 or 3 hp if you do it just right. Therefore, it’s not worth it. 🙂
I have a 2006 mazda 3, with an after market 3inch intake. Headers are coming this week. What size muffler should i put on it so my overall speed and torque are in ballance? Im just looking for a basic upgrade. Thanks.
brent – If you can buy a kit that’s tuned, that would be ideal. Otherwise, I’d stick with a basic upgraded muffler and go from there.
In all honesty, when you’re building your own system like this, finding a good muffler shop is important. Check with your local Miata racing club to see who they recommend.
I have a 2010 VE commodore omega with the stock exhaust, but i have the rear baffles of a VE SSV redline. it sounds a lot different but i can feel the car has lost power when it comes to acceleration. the pipes are the same size. I was wondering if you could tell me if the rear mufflers should be changed back to stock standard in case its damaging my engine.
Jacob – Damaging your engine? Very unlikely. Diminishing low-end torque? Could be. I’m sorry, but I don’t even know what a VE Commodore Omega is (is it an Aussie car?), so that’s all I’ve got for you.
First off, thanks for answering all our questions. I have an 04 Audi S4 with a 4.2L v8. I upgraded the factory 2″ piping to 2 1/4″, removed the factory resonator, removed the precat, added an x-pipe, and installed cherry bomb extreme mufflers. The sound is pretty good, but I’m looking for a slightly higher pitch, potentially louder as well. What happens to my tone if I increase my pipe diameter to 2.5″? What happens to my tone if I add in a second x-pipe? I had an H pipe prior to the x-pipe, and I got a higher pitched tone with the X vs the H. Along with that, Im thinking if I go with a spintech sportsman pro (non chambered like I have now) that I may get a higher pitch as well. I basically want to accentuate my 7500 rpm redline as much as possible. Thank you!
Matt – Cross-pipes balance output and generally emphasize lower frequencies. So if you’re looking for a raw sound, you might try removing the cross-pipe.
Also, the highest frequency sounds are absorbed inside the mufflers. If you’re looking for more noise, cheaper mufflers might get you where you want to go…only Cherry Bomb Extremes are probably as good as you’re going go do if you’re looking for noise.
Finally, I don’t think pipe diameter has much of an impact on sound.
we are about to build my chevy 350 to around 400 horsepower..it will have performance headers…and i want to put 3 inch duals with flowmasters..could my engine handle it?
Damien – Sure! Can you handle losing some low-end power? Check out this table of ideal exhaust pipe diameters.
https://www.exhaustvideos.com/faq/how-to-calculate-muffler-size-pipe-diameter/#easy
You’ll see the optimal size for a 350-400hp engine is 2.25″ to 2.5″ pipes on a dual system, or one single 3″ pipe. If you go with dual 3″ pipes, you’re going to lose torque off the line.
we decided were going to build it to 500 horsepower. im sure 3 inch duals wont affect me to much?
Damien a 3″ exhaust won’t affect you much my factory Chevy has 3″ I know also as my dads s-10 is running 4″ exhaust with a 383 striker pushin only 425hp so 3″ will be ok and what mufflers do you want? What type of tone are you looking for???
Lookn at cherry bombs..either vortex or extremes…were buildin motor some…be round 400 maybe more..my friend had 3 inch duals and his chevy to. but his motor was built when bought it..we dont know how much built…my truck is dual str8 piped..and his has mufflers..and its louder than mine…cause of his built motor…idk i just want 3 inch duals off my headers but everybody says ull lose back pressure
At 500hp, 3″ is close to optimal.
i just talked to my mechanic..hes gettin price on new 350..1000 dollar headers. and whtever else thts necessary…doin 3 inch duals. lol
Hey i just bought a big hmong like muffler dont know diamater but i plan on putting it on my 2000 alero 4 cylinder what would the effects be?
Did you read the article?
I have a 1983 Chevy c30 Dually with a 7.4 liter 454 and my father in law as a dodge ram exhaust would it be okay to put that on my truck mine is completely shot and back fires alot till warm
I have an 04 Mustang V6 3.8L, have a dual 2 1/2″ pipe w/ 2 Spintec mufflers installed. The muffler shop didn’t have the 2 1/4″ mandrel bent pipe so they suggested & I went along with the 2 1/2″. After driving it for awhile, I had noticed the low end torque wasn’t great so I went back to the shop & asked them to converted back to a single exhaust system. They cut & capped the 2nd exhaust about 2″ after the x-pipe. Would you please let me know if this is ok as I’m a bit concern about air flow restriction as it’s not really a true y-pipe configuration. My gas mileage is also not that great. I’m only getting around 20 mpg mostly freeway driving but short distance (7 miles ea way). Should I have them replace the x to a y-pipe now that I’m running single exhaust & also reduce the pipe size to 2″ or 2 1/4″? Please advice.
John – Technically, cutting and capping the pipe should result in no ill effect on your exhaust gas flow. However, gases that sit inside that section of pipe will eventually cool, and at that time there will be some sort of flow inside that small section of pipe…but in all likelihood it will not explain your power loss.
Keep in mind that 1) the “butt dyno” is notoriously inaccurate, 2) a small increase in pipe size won’t have a huge effect. I don’t know that I would go back to 2.25 inch if you’re going to stick with a single exit.
However, a dual exit 2.25″ exhaust is quite a bit for a 200hp V6, so you’re wise to get rid of that.
Hey I have a 2002 volvo s80 and I was thinking about cutting after the resonator and installing a flowmaster 44 muffler single in and dual out. Do i need to get a smaller or larger diameter to fit on the muffler both inlet and outlet?
Alex – No idea. Crawl under and take some measurements. 😉
Wanting to put dual exhaust on a 4 cylinder. I have seen your comments on not doing this. I have a 1973 fiat spider 1800 engine. Doing a restoration and rebuild on the engine. Dual plane intake with 2 2 brl carbs 37.5 mm exhaust 43mm intake with a high perfomance cam. It has a 4 to 2 exhaust manifold with 2 drop pipes that converge into collecter then to a single pipe to a muffler. I want to cut the pipes at the collector they appear to be 2 inch. Can I run 2 2 inch pipes to 2 cherry bombs and exit on each side before the rear tires. Unable to run out the back do to the gas tank location and height. Or do I need to reduce them to a smaller pipe. Is this worth the work or is it a waste of time. not a exhaust guy or much of a 4 cylinder person.
Zail – Waste of time and money, mostly because there’s only one cylinder pumping out exhaust gases at any given time. Running a dual exhaust has no real benefits provided the single system is properly sized.
What’s more, running a dual could hurt performance by reducing low-end torque and adding weight.
I say skip it.
Dual exhaust on a 98 Camry v6 good or bad idea all stock for now. ( Jeremy M )
Jeremy – I’m not a huge fan of the idea, but it’s definitely not a bad notion.
My opinion is that a good muffler on the stock system will give you 80-90% of the performance benefits at less than half the cost.
I want to put dual exhaust on my evo 8, but heres the catch. i want to do a turbo back system, then off of the turbo back system with High flow cat, ( after the cat) put butterfly valve and a pipe that stem off to the other muffler. this makes it so i can have a car that is quiet, but also can have the option of more power and that wonderful sound, any thoughts?
Check out QTP exhaust cut-outs. Might be what you’re looking for. http://www.tundraheadquarters.com/blog/2010/06/16/qtp-electric-exhaust-cutouts/
HOWDY
2 DIFFERENT CARS I WOULD LIKE YOUR THOUGHTS ON, A 2008 HONDA RIDGELINE…….WHATS THE BEST WAY TO MAKE THIS V-6 BREATH EASIER, OR IS IT ALREADY DOING IT’S BEST.
2006 MERCURY GRAND MARQUIS V-8 AND ONLY 27,000 MILES…..I WANTED TO HEAR THE V-8 A TAD MORE AS WELL AS GIVE IT SOME NEEDED BREATHING. THANKING YOU IN ADVANCE
DENNIS
Dennis – For the Ridgeline, I think you’re going to have trouble getting much more out of it. Intake, exhaust, and computer programmers are the three best things you can add, but unfortunately there aren’t a lot of those available for the Ridgeline (at least not to my knowledge).
The options on the Grand Marquis, however, are numerous. Ford Racing makes all *kinds* of parts for that 4.6L motor, as does the aftermarket. As I said above, intake, exhaust and programmers are your first options, but new heads and intake manifolds are reasonably priced, as are supercharger kits.
i drive a 2005 ford focus zx3 2.0L and i cut most of my exghaust off, well i cut the resonator box off then my muffler, now theres just header, coming off from that my cat, then a silencer, and now my car is experiencing huge power loss, its dam loud and my car is really slower in mid to high rpms, i thought the silencer and cat would work for the meantime, but there a huge power loss, why is that, and what can i do. please help me
Jonathan – Classic example of how making your exhaust less restrictive ultimately screwed up your torque curve. The cause, specifically, is that you’ve made the exhaust system effectively a lot “bigger”, and this has slowed down your exhaust gas, which has reduced scavenging in the cylinders.
My advice? Restore your system to stock, then just replace the OEM muffler with a good after-market unit.
Hey Jason! I drive a 96 Chevy Lumina. K&N filter! ( plan on intake real soon). Deleted resonator and muffler! It sounds alright for themot part, but I want it louder! Could you please direct me into the right direction. It has the 3100 V6….I’m thinking of the super 10 series muffler but after reading this whole blog, I’m considering glass packs! So, that would make it LOUDER??
Glass packs or anything really cheap should do the trick.
Bahahaha like this one
Just fitted NXTSTEP S/Steel axil back boxes for a 2013 GT Mustang. The system looks great,seen on ebay, but I have an issue at the cruising speed of 60/70 with rpm at 2000 the drone 100rpm ither side is very loud.I am looking for a fix as the rest of the range is Ok. What could be done to move this up or down the rev range? Air Box,H pipe very small in line additional mufflers,help.
Regards
Gordon
Gordon – It’s a common problem, and I don’t have a solution. I will tell you that a mustang owner on Corral.net eliminated drone by adding a tuned stovepipe to his exhaust system. You can read about it here: http://forums.corral.net/forums/general-mustang-tech/496793-exhaust-drone-completely-gone.html
Bear in mind that these types of modifications can effect performance, if only just a little.
Thank you Jason, the site you gave me is full of the same issue, but as I thought a fix is out there.
Best Regards
Gordon
i just putted a 40 series on a 2011 silverado but the inlet is 3inch and i have dual and they are both 2.5 inch i was wondering is my motor in long terms lose any power that it aready has
fernando – See sizing charts here: https://www.exhaustvideos.com/faq/how-to-calculate-muffler-size-pipe-diameter/
So I just bought a 2004 g35 sedan I have added to it a stillen z tube and a jwt pop air filter with a magnaflow exhaust I am not all that familiar with newer car systems do I need to have my car tuned for it or will this perform just fine? Thank you
Ivan – You don’t *need* a tune – but you’ll find that a tune at a good dyno shop (or a remote tune) – will get you some more power.
Thanks for the info Jason I think I will do it when I put a hi flow cat thank you again for the info
I have a 1993 Chevy k1500 and when i bought the truck, it had headers, gutted (empty) Cats, Thrush Welded mufflers, and dual tips. Both left and right side pipes were completely separate and never connected.
However, the pipes rotted and now im going back to Original factory exhaust. Would the stock muffler be any different with 1 pipe coming out rather than 2? Because every parts store is giving me different information on the 1993 exhaust year. Thank you 😀
James – I’m all but certain a stock 1993 GM 1500 had a single exit exhaust (well, maybe the SS trucks had duals) from the factory. SO, there’s absolutely no problem with using a dual in single out exhaust.
However, if you’re looking for performance, you may find that a tuned dual exhaust system (check out cat-back systems from flowmaster, magnaflow, or gibson) will give you more power.
Hey, my friend just put a new exhaust on my Lancer coupe.
And now the back wheel won’t turn after the hand break has been put on. If you don’t have the hand break on it drives but smokes really bad. This only happen after he had put this on.. Can you help me?
Tash – First, prevent further damage. Don’t drive the car if doing so causes something to smoke.
Next, if I had to guess, I’d say the handbrake cable got pinched during the exhaust system install. I’d trace it back and figure out where the problem is.
Okay thanks. Ill have a look when I get home. We thought it may have been caused from the sparks off the welder on the line but couldn’t get under to have a good look.
Did did connect the ground on your battery to stop it from causing harm to any electronically controlled piece in your car????
i have a 03 F-150 5 speed 4.2 V6 single cab, and had it Y’d off with 2.5 inch pipes, but i hate the way it sounds! its not loud enough, should i get it “true dualed” or have a single pipe running our infront of the rear right tire? i cant decide. please respond!!
i have a 4.2 03 f-150 5 speed Y’d off, and i dont think its loud enough, i like my trucks LOUD, should i have it true dualed, or on pipe running out in front of the rear passenger side tire? i cant decide! please help i dont know much about this stuff!
True dual with 2.5″ exhaust with no cats and bottles or reauthorized would suffice for a loud truck as mine is true dual with 2.5 piping.and bottles and she’s loud and I still got my cats in but I would prefer straight piped but be aware to tune your engine for ths amount of back pressure your getting!!! Otherwise the relist of revving it too high could be blowing up your too end
Hi I have a dodge dakota 01 4×4 the cat s are in the y pipe thay are roted off. can i change y pipe and put 1 cat and if so what to do with cencers .thank you
I don’t understand what you wrote. Spelling and proper grammar aren’t required to comment here, but they sure make it easier for me to help you.
i have a 96 eclipse with cold air intake. non turbo and i am doing dual exhaust. would a 2.25 id pipe be the best result ?
I have a 2000 Volvo S 40 with a stock exhaust right now the pipe is 2 1/4 inch if i where to put a 3 inch pipe would i need to get a new turbo charger to fit the pipe or could i just use an adapter to make it fit?
David – You can use a new pipe and an adapter. However, you might look for a downpipe kit first.
Hey, I just read this thread and i learned many valuable tips. I have a question concerning my 08 nissan 350z. My car has a y pipe coming from the dual cats measuring about 2.25 merging to 2.5 inch to a single exhaust measuring around 2.36inch.
I was thinking of getting a magnaflow single exhaust system designed for my 350z. However, the pipe size is 2.5 inches. I know that getting a tune for the exhaust would help but i am trying to avoid getting a tune. I rather get the exhaust system to change the exhaust noise. My concern deals with the change of pipe size from 2.36 to 2.5 that might affect the low end torque power. Will this change lower my low end torque if i were to increase the pipe size?
Thanks,
Angel
Angel – I’d be very surprised if going from 2.36″ to 2.5″ tubing would make a noticeable difference, especially on a powerful car like the 350Z. I say go for it.
If your looking for sound don’t just go with a muffler get a cat-back system there tuned for sound and maximum torque gain as the back pressure is tuned for a factory engine and if your really wanting sound than also get a couple of magnaflow high flow cats because with the less distortion from a factory style cat you get better exhaust flow which means more power and also more sound because the sound is carried through the air flow and my friend put a flo pro cat back system on his 350z and it sounds amazing I would highly recommend a flo pro cat back system over a magnaflow
True Dakota but I would rather not mess with the emission problems by changing the cats for HFC or TP. I rather get the magnaflow direct fit cat since its emissionable and says can free some of the restrictions. The two magnaflow cats cost about 1200 for both sides.
I am not about having the fastest car in the world but enough to get by people,
Thanks
Thanks Jason. Yeah I was just making sure because I notice on your thread that you mentioned car manufactures designed the exhaust pipe size based on what they believe the car is capable of performing at its best. If they created 2.3 inches for the exhaust why did they not create 2.5inches on a 350z instead? Thats what concerns me of changing pipe sizes.
I understand. Keep in mind the size chart is a rough estimate, rounded to the nearest common pipe size available.
Hey Jason, i was thinking of going to a another direction where the exhaust tanabe is 2.75 inches from 2.36 stock. Will this 2.9inch increase have an impact on the low end torque since it much bigger?
Angel – It’s more likely, as this is a 35% increase in cross-sectional area. However, if you’re making other performance improvements – or if this is part of a tuned cat-back system – there’s a good chance that it will help.
In all honesty, it’s impossible for you to make this decision without testing. Therefore, I would either a) try both or b) invest in a tuned system that someone else has already designed to fit your car.
Hey I’m fixing to have new tips put ony new exhaust kit, should I get weld on tips or stick with the clamp on ones? I’m kinda afraid the clamps will eventually give out.
Dylan – If you weld them, there’s no chance they’ll fall off. If you clamp them, there’s a small chance the clamps will loosen and fall off.
SO, I’d weld them and be done with it. Your local muffler shop won’t charge much to take care of it.
Thanks Jason, should I have my exhaust Y’d off from the Cat converter back? Or true dual it? It’s a 4.2 V6 motor
Dylan – I would do a cat-back. A true dual isn’t really necessary on a V6 since the left and right banks of the motor aren’t balanced anyways…
If it was me, I’d go with a single inlet dual outlet performance muffler and call it a day. That will be the most affordable option and it will also be good for a few HP.
I tried that before I put this Y’d off Dual set on there, and it didnt sound that great, plus it looked kinda dumb lol, but now I have a 3.25 inch pipe converting into a 2.5 inch dual pipe, is that good or bad? I’m also about to put tips on that’r 4 inch outlet if that matters at all
Dylan – If you’ve got some 3.25″ pipe on there and the factory pipe was only 2.5″, you’re probably going to see performance fall off. I would go with a factory-like setup until you get to the cat. After the cat, I would do either 1) a factory sized pipe + after-market muffler or 2) a quality after-market cat-back system.
Bottom line: There’s no need to stray too far from the factory setup. A good after-market muffler is going to add power and sound without screwing up performance or fuel economy.
Hi, I have a ’97 Honda Accord LX and it runs great. A few months ago I had the tail pipe replaced and I noticed that it’s much smaller than my old one and other small cars that I see on the road. Suddenly my car has completely shut off twice while I was driving – but the radio and lights and everything was still working. It’s never done this before I had the work done. I was wondering if the small tail pipe can cause this to happen?
Tracy – It’s possible, but I’d look for codes being set in the engine before I swapped out the tailpipe.
Also, it’s good to remember that 16 year old cars can die for no apparent reason without anything being wrong. 🙂
Thank you!
Just added supercharger to a 4.6 ford should I change anything from the exhause manifold back if so what should I change for best performance must stay quite sleeper
Mike – Awesome! The best way to milk all the power of a supercharged engine is to re-do the system with headers, a high-flow cat, and then a good mandrel-bent performance system.
However, if that’s not in the budget, I’d suggest swapping out the muffler for an after-market unit. It will be louder, but it will be less restrictive…and my guess is that the factory muffler is the bottleneck in your system right now.
I have an ’01 Nissan Maxima GLE. My muffler and intermediate pipe were replaced at Meineke. The muffler is smaller than the OEM by Nissan.
Should I be concerned about this? Will it affect engine performance or cause damage?
Steve – The physical size of the muffler doesn’t matter too much – it’s more about the design. In fact, a smaller muffler could be less restrictive. However, if you went with an OEM replacement, it’s likely Meineke strapped on a less expensive version of what you had. It likely won’t last as long as the OEM unit, but it was probably a lot less expensive too.
I have a 2010 subaru Impreza Rs (sedan). I don’t know much about exhaust systems, local muffler shop suggested a catback system which isnt loud but has a nice tone. What should i keep an eye out for and the type of questions i should ask? In order to have performance, a nice soft idle and a nice yet not too loud tone on acceleration.
Im a new to this and want to have fun with my car without annoying nieghbors and police. Hope you can help.
Thanks
nathan – First, check out this post about how much exhaust systems should cost – lots of good background info: https://www.exhaustvideos.com/faq/how-much-exhaust-system-cost/
Next, as far as figuring out if you’re working with the right shop…
– Good muffler shops are always busy, and they’re never national chains like Meineke (or similar)
– Local racing clubs are a great place to find the best exhaust system shops, as is the local drag strip. Call them up and ask them for a recommendation.
– Be sure to ask whatever shops you might want to work with if they guarantee their work, and for how long
– You also want to ask them if they think a tuned cat-back system from someone like Borla is better than a custom system they build in the shop. If they say they’re better, ask them if they mandrel bend or not…if they don’t, I’d be hesitant to work with them without a strong recommendation from someone in the community
As a general rule, I believe tuned cat-back systems offered by major exhaust system manufacturers are the way to go. They’re a little more costly than the locally built systems, but they’re guaranteed to improve performance. With a poorly built local system, you could see a reduction in power and more noise than you like…only some local shops are as good as the national companies, so it just depends on who you have in your town.
Hi Jason,
I have a 5.7L Jeep GC (cam/heads/LT headers/stock SRT catback) that is just too damn loud. It was cool at first, but is wearing on me and I need to quiet it down some. The stock muffler is a funky design (baffled), for I get hot exhaust out of one pipe and cold out of the other. I have done some research and I was wondering if I went with smaller pipe (2.25″ from 2.75″) and the magnaflo x-pipe muffler (same diameter as stock, dual in/out), if that would quiet it down enough. Would going with two single turbo style mufflers and an h-pipe be better in reducing the sound?
If you like the exhaust but it’s,too loud just throw s couple resonators in with the exhaust as there designed to quieten the exhaust that way my 2010 challenger had out of the factory was 2 resonators and 4 cats
Aaron – If you’re getting hot exhaust out of one pipe and cold exhaust out of the other, something isn’t working. My guess is that the pipes are too big…a dual 2.75inch system is big enough for a 550+ hp engine, and I’m guessing you’re closer to 350hp. Dropping down to 2.25″ pipes will probably improve performance.
That aside, the best way to change the sound is go swap out the muffler. If you go with something a little less aggressive – you might check out Flowmaster’s Force II mufflers, which are quieter than average (or something similar).
Adding resonators or changing pipe sizes might have a small impact, but if you’re looking for something that’s more than a little bit quieter, you’ll need a new muffler.
Jason he has the arts which has the Hemi (395 HP Stock) he’s easily pushing 450 with his mods
Srt8 damn auto correct
The SRT8 has a 6.1. He said his Jeep has the 5.7
O.K.,
Would I get more sound attenuation by using a single large suitcase muffler or two turbo mufflers? The stock system has a single suitcase after the cats and resonators at the tailpipes. I’m guessing the Flowmaster is a chambered/baffled design, which from my research, an h-pipe is better suited for, as opposed to an x-pipe. If I go with dual mufflers, I will definately need a cross-over of some sort.
Thanks.
Hey Jason,
I just bought a 2012 F-150 with the 5.0L engine. I was thinking about putting a Corsa exhaust on it (that’s what I put on our Suburban, and it sounds great). Do you have any comments or suggestions? They offer the 14393 Sport system (about $820) and the 24393 dB Sport system (about $510). Is there enough of a difference in these two systems to warrant a $300+ price difference?
BTW, I am looking for something that will not produce a noticeable difference in sound while idling or cruising, but will let you know I am there when I get on it.
Brian – If you have a Corsa system that you like already, I say go for it.
As for the difference between the two systems, dB exhausts look like they’re made from 409 stainless (only the tips are 304), while the entire Corsa system is made from 304…but I can’t prove that to you, as the Corsa and dB product info I’m finding is cryptic.
To learn more about 304 vs 409 stainless, see this page: https://www.exhaustvideos.com/faq/stainless-vs-aluminized-steel-exhaust-system/
Doing a little research, it seems like the cheaper option is loud just to be loud. It sounds like the more expensive system is what I am looking for (not noticeable at idle or cruising, only when I get on it).
Thanks for the help.
Hey Jason, im biulding a 1987 swb c10, and I see you have a great deal of knowledge here that I’m lacking( im 18 know a bunche just exhaust/ proper back pressure has me lost)I have built my self a sbc 383 (350 stroked) and I’m running air gap intake and 906 vortec heads that had the 1.94 s seats and throats cut to 2.02, 64cc chambers And stock runners which I believe are 215 cc idk. The cam is a comp 280H .280 duration and .480/.480 lift with 1.6 roller rocker. I’m telling you all this because I’m not sure what is needed to determine the exhaust system. I’m lost on headers all the way back. I’ve herd from more expeirenced people that this should be a fairly powerful engine and it can run like a turd with out the right exhaust. The closest I’ve herd is a mandrel bent x pipe 2.5 pipe and flowmaster super 44s. So, therefore, what is your opinion?
Christopher – I can’t guess as to horsepower with all those specs, mostly because everything depends on tuning. However, a really nicely tuned 383 is going to put out 350-400hp, and according to this page – https://www.exhaustvideos.com/faq/how-to-calculate-muffler-size-pipe-diameter/ – a dual 2.5″ system is more than enough.
In fact, I’d probably go with a true dual 2.25″ inch if it’s a street car, as that should give you better performance on the low end (only it depends on a lot of factors…). What does your header manufacturer recommend?
Well I haven’t order any, because I’m not sure what to buy.
Hey Guys, rather than replace the whole exhaust system with a 2.5 inch that’s greater than the oem size and since the 2.5 exhaust system has no resisinator I decided to change the muffler instead so the change wont be that loud. The muffler is straight through and has the exact same size pipe connected to the muffler. The muffler has great sound and power however I notice a problem. I am looking at my gas mileage reader and I gained nearly 6 to 10 mpg, I am thinking great however I notice that I am killing more gas. I have read threads that says people are stepping on the gas to much but I am not since I have learned the hard way. How is it that I gain mpg but I am killing gas than unusual? I mean the piping is the same except its straight through muffler only.
Angel
Angel – There are a lot of items that effect fuel economy. I’d say it’s hard to know if the muffler is the only reason your gas mileage is up…it’s rare to see that big of an increase (1-2mpg is more likley).
Hello Jason. I have a 1998 Nissan Pathfinder and would like to upgrade my exhaust but I’m having trouble deciding on a set up. Its a v6 so would a dual exhaust be ok or should I stick with the dual in single out set up?
Alister – I’d stick with the factory setup. A dual isn’t going to do a whole lot to wake that engine up…better to spend your funds elsewhere in my opinion.
Hi, Jason. I am new to this exhaust thing so, your expertise is much appreciated. I have a Toyota Vios 2010 AT. I haven’t done any modification yet. Is it possible to change to dual exhaust and with what size and accessories? If it is not recommended, then what modification is best to bring out some performance? Thanks in advance.
OnNets – There isn’t much you can do to wake up the engine in the Vios – if I were you, I’d probably just swap out the muffler for something that’s a little louder, then invest in a performance after-market air cleaner, and then save my pennies for something with a bigger motor. 🙂
i have an 1984 pick up my muffler is broken and i wanting to just cut and weld a 82 muffler from a Camaro to my Toyota
will this swap have any affect on my car ?
Luis – Is buying a new muffler really out of the question? They’re pretty cheap, and if you buy new, you’ll get one that’s actually designed for the vehicle, so you won’t have to wonder if it’s a good idea or not…
Hello Jason. Seems like your the person to talk to about this seeing the crazy amount of questions you answer. My question is in regards to 2000 Jeep Cherokee I just purchased. She came with a “Dual” exhaust on her and was wondering if it would restrict the power of the vehicle. It is a 4.0 L I6 and the exhaust is actually just another pipe welded to another, making it a “Y” pipe. I don’t think it is necessary anyways and want to get it replaced, eventually… Would I also have to replace the muffler or any other component replacing the tail pipe? Thanks, Alex
Alex – A poorly tacked on dual exhaust pipe isn’t a huge hindrance. It’s not ideal – it’s extra weight and likely has some effect on exhaust flow – but it’s marginal. If you decide to replace things and money is no object, there are a lot of great 4.0L Jeep exhaust systems out there that will add power. Otherwise, I’d go to my local muffler shop and exhaust them to install a cat-back system. Just make sure they use mandrel-bent tubing (that’s pretty important, contrary to what most muffler shops will tell you).
Jason,
I have a 2003 nissan xterra, 3.3L V6 engine. As far as exhaust goes, I have deleted the stock muffler and replaced it with a aluminum thrush welded single in single out muffler.I have had it installed for a year, and I have noticed a tone change, its now deeper. Im not complaining, I just want more. The stock pipe size is 2.25″, I would like your opinion on changing to a custom cat back system. From the cat I want to jump to a 2.5″ pipe (from the 2.25″ stock pipe), single in dual out thrush welded muffler, 2.5″ out the muffler to the back. And finishing it with a 3.5″ tip. Now I have heard that the size tip can make a slight change. What do you think and suggest about my scheme of things? Thanks.
Justin – The section of the tubing before the muffler is what matters, and I’m not sure I’d suggest making that tubing bigger. Your truck is probably at or very close to 200hp, and going from 2.25″ to 2.5″ is going to make that tube just a bit too big…could hurt your power off the line.
the only reason I say 2.5 is that magnaflow has a cat back kit that is 2.5, but only single in single out. That kit is made for my year vehicle. I was unsure that by going dual if that would be too much air flow. Oh, I don’t know if this helps any with your opinion, but I’m not running the stock air box any more either. I now have a short ram intake system.
Justin – It’s hard to say. However, as a general rule, larger tubing on smaller displacement motors hurts low-end torque. This is mostly because the exhaust gases cool a little faster in a larger tube, which makes them more dense and “heavier,” which increases backpressure at lower RPMs.
So, unless you’re building a race vehicle, it’s generally better to be a little under-sized than a little over-sized, as most street drivers prefer low-end grunt to max power at high RPMs.
I have a 1997 grand marquis 4.6. I want to run true dual exhaust on it. What is a good pipe size? I know factory is 2″ and on this same car factory duals are 2″. I removed 4 cats and installed 2 new ones. Whats your input?
Jesse – See this page for the answer to your question: https://www.exhaustvideos.com/faq/how-to-calculate-muffler-size-pipe-diameter/
Off the top of my head, your plan to go with dual 2″ pipes sounds good.
hi jason i was just wondering iv got a 2005 1.4 twinport vauxaul corsa with a single pipe but i have just added a muffler backbox thats a foot and a half long 9 inch wide box with a 6 inch tip..it has seemed to improved the performance by alot but im worried at the fact that the engine is chain driven and it might not be good for it..good or bad?
Robert – As a general rule, changing your exhaust system configuration has no effect on the reliability of your engine. Until you start mounting turbos or flame-throwing exhaust systems, you’ve got nothing to worry about.
My son wants to convert the manufacturer exhaust system on his 2001 Tundra to a one to two exhaust with 4″ diameter pipes. I want to make a knowledgeable decision and want to avoid damaging the truck. Please direct me
Laura – You won’t damage anything provided the installation is completed by someone who knows what they’re doing (or who follows instructions very closely). However, dual 4″ tubes for a Tundra are far too big…tubes that big could reduce low-end torque and dampen the truck’s acceleration (which, now that I think about it, might not be so bad if your son is a young driver).
Also, I’m not quite clear on the one-to-two, but my guess is that the plan is to replace the single entry-single exit factory muffler with a single entry-dual exit muffler, then bolt some really big pipes to that. I like that basic idea just fine, it’s just the 4″ pipes I’m not understanding. 2.5″ tubing would be more logical.
Hi Jason i have a 98 c5 Corvette and i swich my exhaust to a slp loudmouth exhaust and i fill like i have lost horsepower Can this happen by swiching to a aftermarket exhaust ..??
jeremiah – Unless the exhaust you installed was clogged or something, the odds of losing horsepower (top-end speed) are low. What can happen, however, is that an over-sized system can rob some low-end torque.
Still, if the exhaust system you installed was designed specifically for your vehicle, I’d check the rest of the car.
I have an 08 Silverado single cab with a V6 I had true duels run on it at the sugestion of the muffler shop and it seemed to lose power rather than gain it I disconnected the negitive batter cable to reset the computer and it didn’t seem to help. I do have a chip ordered for it and will be putting a cold air system on it as well. I guess my question is should I put a “Y” on it or maybe go back to single exaust?
Freddy – Unless that true dual system is on the small side (see this page for advice on how big your tubes should be – https://www.exhaustvideos.com/faq/how-to-calculate-muffler-size-pipe-diameter/ – my guess is about 1.75″ per pipe), it’s likely that it’s hurting performance. When tubing gets too big, you lose low-end torque. My advice is to stick with the dual setup, but go with an appropriately sized set of tubes.
Hi Jason. They put 2 1/2 inch on it and from what I could tell just by looking that’s what can out of the cats. Maybe it’s just me I’m going to check the gas mileage tonight when I fill up. It seemed to do better last night it didn’t seem to down shift on some of the hills and seemed to up shift sooner.
Thanks for the help
Freddy
Hey, I have a 1977 Ford F250 custom that im almost done restoring. And I want to buy headers for it, and I was wondering what brand to chose. Also I was wondering if I could got with 1inch something piping? I want it to crackle and pop and scream. If you could help me, that would be great!
And I will also add on that it is a 351wid V8, and I don’t want to mess anything up with back pressure or anything. Get to the point it’s a crate motor and I don’t want to blow it up.
Paul – I don’t think you can blow it up unless you do something crazy. There are a lot of fine options for headers on your 351 – I don’t have a specific recommendation.
Hi I just bought a brand new 2013 mercedes c250 coupe with the AMG sports package and i regret not buying a c350 as the single exhaust really annoys me and makes it look like a girls car. How would I go about on making it dual exhaust? Will I lose power at all as it is currently a 4 cylinder 1.8L engine.
Taghipour – I don’t think a C250 is a girl’s car at all – sounds like a fun commuter car to me. In any case, I don’t recommend adding a second exhaust outlet. If you do, I’d add a single-entry dual-exit muffler, then run two smallish tubes (1.75″ each) to the back. You could also just hang a piece of tubing and leave it unconnected…the effect would be the same (a 4cylinder engine does NOT need a dual exhaust).
Thanks for the response Jason that was very fast haha. I appreciate the response and it sounds like you know what you are talking about so I’m going ahead and trusting your opinion on this one. My main concern however is that “if” I decided to just go ahead and do it will I be losing horse power at all? You also mention tubing, I was going to do that in the first place but the fact that no smoke will be coming out of it also bothers me haha.
Taghipour – If you just hang a pipe off the back and don’t connect it to the rest of the system, the only people who will know are you and your mechanic. The exhaust system on your C250 isn’t supposed to generating any visible smoke, except perhaps when you first start-up on a very cold day.
Hello Taghipour,
I accidentally read your post and wanted to give you my personal thoughts. The biggest difference you come to think of between a C250 and a C350 is the fact that the C250 has got a rather dull in-line 4-cyl engine, while the C350 has a V6 engine with alot more exciting exhaust note(as well as alot more power).
Adding the extra tip with a Y-pipe for the C250 would sure make it look much better, I agree, but no matter what you do with the exhaust system you won’t be able get that wonderful raspy V6 sound that the C350 is able to produce. Then again as Jason says, adding a dual exhaust for the C250 could possibly compromise with low-end torque and power. He undoubtedly has alot more knowledge about exhaust systems than I do, but I totally dislike the idea with hanging a second fake exhaust pipe that won’t be connected to the exhaust system. For several reasons.
First of all, it doesn’t have to be that cold outside to make the exhaust gases visible, imagine having 2 exhaust tips and smoke coming from only 1 of them. Second, my girlfriend has a 2011 C180 4-cyl with the single-sided exhaust setup and despite the small petrol engine, the exhaust tip gets quite dirty and almost black over time, which will make it even more visible that the other not connected exhaust tip is fake if you have one, also when the car is parked. And then again, just the other engine you get in the C350 makes that choice much more interesting in the first place. And you wouldn’t have to feel distressed about not having a dual exhaust system.
So if I were you, I would really consider the C350. If that’s not relevant for you anymore now, I would however not try and solve your issue by hanging a second pipe that’s not connected. Either do it with a Y-pipe to small inch pipes, or leave it as it is. Even though dual exhaust tips looks very hot, the single exhaust tip isn’t at all bad looking after all.
If you from the beginning contemplated between the two cars and the C350 was a choice within reach, I would personally still trade-in the C250 and get a C350. Much more joy!
Hey Erik! I get exactly what you mean and the thing is that when I went to get a car from the benz dealer ship, I had no idea what I wanted. I walked in and looked around and picked up the c250 3 hours later so it is basically my fault for not being patient and considering the two cars. On the other hand, the reason why I picked out the c250 coupe was because of the amg package they had with the red interior, body kit, and amg rims which makes the car look really nice.
I had no idea that the 350 came with the same package otherwise I would have picked that instead and the sales person did not inform me of this. 2 months later I realized that the car isn’t powerful enough and I went to the dealership 3 days ago to see if I can trade it for a 350 and they said that the price of my car already dropped 25% which is $15,000 so I’m a little disappointed as I don’t know what to do at this point.
Hm, I guess your C250 Coupe was brand new from factory when you bought it? Yup, they do lose alot of value as soon as you start it up and drive it out of the dealership. Anyhow, if I were you, I would not trade it in for a brand new C350 Coupe, but perhaps a used C350 Coupe, or even a 2008-2011 W204 C350 Sedan which one can find relatively speaking cheap, but it’s up to you if it has to be the latest Coupe. You could aswell put away money for saving for a year or so before getting a new car. But the thing with brand new cars is that they lose value very quick..
I have a 2013 Kia Sorrento lx 3.5L v-6. It was getting about 22+/- mpg so I figured if I add an flowmaster with single and duals out I could get better but I am getting worse mpg and it doesn’t right. I have put on exhaust on every car truck or suv I have ever had and always got good or great results. So I was wondering if anyone on here could give me their thoughts on why the gas mpg went down on it? Also if the muffler shop put it on backwards could that be the problem? please let me know what you thanks to anyone with help.
Mike – How much of a drop in fuel economy are we talking about? 1-2mpg *could* be a result of changing the exhaust system (something could be clogged or improperly installed), but a change of that magnitude could also be explained by cold weather, more aggressive driving (that’s something that often happens when exhaust systems are switched out), or even winter fuel mixtures (which are less efficient).
It could also be a result of the engine reprogramming itself. My suggestion: 1. Verify that everything is installed correctly and 2. Reset the engine computer by disconnecting your car battery for 30 minutes. Then, we you start over, drive easy so the engine can re-learn.
Hi Erik,
I recently bought a 2011 Mazda 6 i (4 cyl automatic). Love the car, great gas mileage and it’s fun to drive. However, I would love to add some power. Do you have any suggestions that wouldn’t make the car unbearably loud?
Christopher – I’d suggest an after-market air intake – that will add power without making your vehicle much louder (it will make your engine louder at wide open throttle, but most people like that).
Exhaust systems on 4-cylinders are frequently “unbearably loud”, as that’s what the typical buyer wants (I guess). 🙂
i have a 2011 SAAB 9-3 2.0L turbo. can i add a dual exhaust system on my car?
ok – You can, but it would be pointless. 4-cyl engines don’t need dual exhaust systems.
oh ok. well i do see alot of newer 2.0L turbo cars have dual exhaust but thanks for letting me know. what modifications can i do to increase power or air flow? remove resonator? any suggestions?
ok – It’s definitely popular to put dual exhausts on all cars, but I don’t think it’s logical to do it on any 4-cylinder. In terms of making more power:
– Invest in an after-market downpipe
– Invest in a tuned cat-back system for your vehicle
– Invest in a cold air intake kit
All told, these add-ons could boost HP as much as 20%. Depending on what you’re driving, you may be able to use a programmer or tuner as well.
thanks! do you think adding an after market intercooler would help too?
ok – Absolutely.
thanks! ill be sure to look into a downpipe..i dont know the diameter of the one already in my car. what size generally would i need its a 2.0Turbo engine with 210 hp. any other cooling methods i could do?
ok – I don’t know what size – you want to find one designed for your specific vehicle. The company that designs them will choose the correct size. As for other performance tips, programmers are great.
Hello, I have a 2009 Ford Mustang with a 4.0 V6. I currently have a dynomax catback which replaces the y-pipe with a x-pipe that goes from 2.25″ and expands to 2.5″ all the way back to the mufflers. I am not happy with the fitment or quality of this system and plan on replacing it with a Flowmaster stainless catback. Now the Flowmaster is 2.25″ all the way back to the 60 series chambered mufflers. When doing this I am also planning to add stainless shorty headers with 17/8″ runners to 2.25″ collectors.
My question is would this be more optimal for my daily driver and help give back some low end performance, and would it suit a supercharger down the road rated to make 300 rwhp? For the time being it would only get a air intake and a tune on it.
Thanks for your time and advice!
I forgot to add the Flowmaster also uses a x-pipe setup as well as the dynomax.
Larry – If you’re going to add a supercharger someday, the cat-back is a bit on the small side. However, between now and then, I’d say it’s just about perfect. Not too big, and because it’s a cat-back system, it’s going to be tuned for performance.
However, I’d recommend contacting the header manufacturer and seeing what they say about their shorty headers in terms of 1) low-end torque and 2) best exhaust system. While I don’t think they’ll have any strong feelings on exhaust systems (they might), the shorty headers can offer rob low-end power. If they have some long-tube headers you might have more fun driving to work every day.
Thank you for your advice and help it’s greatly appreciated Jason!
Hey there!
I have a question regarding exhaust pipe diameter as it relates to a car’s HP.
My 09 Mazda 6 2.5L is advertised to have 170HP at stock. Of course when dyno’d this number is closer to 160whp (with slight modifications).
I’m installing a custom axle-back exhaust with Borla dual-tip mufflers. The stock exhaust runs on a single 2.25″ pipe.
Now according to the chart included in the link below, a 2.5″ exhaust pipe allows for a maximum of 232 HP. Since I’m looking for future gains of >180HP, this would be the way to go.
Now here’s my question: If I do upgrade to a 2.5″ exhaust, would I have to change all the piping from the catbox? I.e. would I have to essentially make a cat-back exhaust? Or would it be okay to just change the piping from the rear axle?
https://www.exhaustvideos.com/faq/how-to-calculate-muffler-size-pipe-diameter/
George – Increasing exhaust system size 1/4 of an inch won’t make a huge difference either way, so the first thing to know is that it’s OK to go with any size between 2 and 2.5″. However, I’d be inclined to stick with the stock size because smaller engines need low end torque more than they need free breathing at higher RPMs. If you go with a 2.5″ setup from the cat back, your setup could be a bit restrictive near idle…this is because exhaust gases can expand and cool more quickly in a larger pipe, and cooler gases are heavier and harder to “push.” As RPM increases, the gases don’t cool as quickly, so it becomes less of a concern.
Now having said that, if your future upgrade plans include a turbo or supercharger, than I’d look at a custom exhaust from the head back (i.e. new header, new racing cat, and new exhaust pipes all the way back). Otherwise, I think I’d just upgrade the stock muffler to something louder and call it good…your Mazda 6 probably has a somewhat restrictive factory muffler.
I’ve got a 04 Dodge Ram 1500 with a 5.7L Hemi in it. I don’t plan to upgrade the engine other then a cold air intake and the exhaust. As far as the exhaust do I have to replace the entire stock system or can I get the same results just going from the cat back? And should I go for dual or single?
Nick – Catback is fine, and many truck owners prefer single exhausts, as the dual setups can sometimes trade a reduction in low-end torque for an improvement in top-end performance. Since top-end isn’t nearly as important on pickups as pulling torque, a single makes a lot of sense.
Great thanks for the info I was kinda hoping single was the way I should go but would I see better results going from the manifold back or would they be the same as going from the cats back
Nick – Cat-back systems aren’t quite as awesome as head back systems, which include headers, high-flo cats, and then the rest of a performance exhaust system. However, there’s a point of diminishing returns…unless we’re building a high-powered race car, our best bang for the buck is muffler replacement, as modern catalytic converters aren’t that restrictive, and modern exhaust manifolds work pretty well from the factory.
Having said that, if your catalytic converter is old and potentially clogged, replacing it can be good.
yeah I didn’t plan on getting headers there too expensive and I don’t think the gains would be worth it since I’m really only after the MPG’s but thanks for the advice I don’t believe my cats are clogged so I’m just gonna take your advice and go from the cats back I’ll let you know the results once I decide what to get and get it installed
Jason, this thread is exactly the type discussion I’ve been looking for.
I would greatly appreciate your help. I’ve got a 92 F150, 5 liter, 4 spd auto transmission, x cab, 8′ bed. It’s now a farm truck. Lots of short on farm uses.
It needs a new tailpipe and muffler. I would like to minimize gas consumption. It has a single exhaust pipe. I’m thinking of a Thrush glass pack. Good idea?
Other options?
I will need to keep it street legal, but its my understanding that vehicles over 20 years old do not have to pass emissions tests.
Many thanks.
Mac
Mac – I think your idea of a glass pack muffler is a good one – they’re cheap, they’re not restrictive, and I’m guessing no one will care about the loud exhaust on the farm. It’s probably not going to make much of a difference in terms of fuel economy, but you never know…
when it comes to emissions it really comes down to the county you live in most counties from what I have seen don’t do emissions on cars that are 20 years others don’t do emissions at all the easiest way to find out is to look it up through the Department of Transportation (DOT) but should be fine if its over twenty years old
Hi there, i have a 2006 Honda Accord V6 3.0Litre with genuine twin exhausts due to twin manifolds outlets on the V6. i recently just changed both muffler boxes at the back to narrower resonated muffler tubes and also removed the 3rd (middle) muffler box and put a tube instead to improve and deepen the note/sound of the car. All of these changes were done at a professional muffler shop who said that all of these changes wont compromise performance and if anything will increase performance due to less restrictions. But when i drive it after the modifications, the car seems to accelerate less quickly and have slightly less power. Its just a tiny feeling which im not even sure is true or not. Is loss of power possible? Or is it because now my car sounds much louder that it has a placebo effect causing an illusion that the engines working harder with not much acceleration? My car is 246HP stock if that helps. Looking forward to hearing an explanation thanks:)
I noticed the same thing on my 2011 Camaro and did pretty much what you did and that is the exact same thing I’m experiencing with my and I’m anxious to find out if this is true
yea me too…hope Jason can help us here. The bullet mufflers i put on were supposed to greatly increase airflow and thus lift restrictions so should put up greater performance….and i hope that is the case.
By the way Tim bilyeu, did the fact that the cabin noise due to your louder exhaust seem to make your stereo sound less punchy. Seems to be cancelling some of my music frequencies so that the music seem of less quality..
Alex – A loss of power is always possible, but the “butt dyno” is notoriously unreliable. Based on everything you’ve said, I’d guess that performance is the same or better.
I recently put new flowmaster mufflers on my 2000 Camaro SS they said I should take off what they called my resnerl out of it and the butterfly flaps on existing pipes and that it would make it a lot louder and said it wouldn’t hurt it or impact future smog.is this is true?
Hello. Read all the threads. And you have great advice. My ?. I have 99 olds aurora 4.0 v8. 1, 2″ pipe then Y’s to 1 1/4 to two mufflers. I cut the mufflers off. And it lost power I think. Takes longer to shift in to gears then before the cut off. I just went and purchased two thrush welded. Mufflers. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.
Mike – First, thank you. Second, mufflers are a bit of a restriction, and restrictions can be a good thing at low RPMs, as the pipes are too big for your engine when you’re at those lower RPMs.
However, it’s never a good idea to make decisions like this based purely on the old “butt dyno.” I’d recommend going to the dyno shop now, testing, adding your new mufflers, testing again, and then making an adjustment.
Having said that, you need mufflers to be street legal in most areas…so maybe you should just put those Thrush mufflers on and call it good. 🙂
It’s fantastic that you are getting ideas from this paragraph as well as from our discussion made here.
’04 Avalance 5.3L
I want to put a turn down tip right after the muffler and expel exhaust to under the chassis. What’s your opinion on this. I don’t believe it will affect backpressure that much as it’s only shortening the post muffler pipe by 2 1/2 feet. Truck is raised 3″ above stock (so has greater airflow underneath), will the escaping exhaust have any adverse affects on the undercarriage?
Tks man.
rob – If I had to come up with a reason not to do this, it would be that you’re risking exhaust gases leaking into the cabin. All vehicles allow a small amount of air into the cab from the undercarriage, which means that you might start breathing exhaust gases if your truck is idling for a long period of time, and if your windows are closed, AND if the climate control system was off.
SO, pretty slim chance of this happening, but it’s worth mentioning, as exhaust leaks can be deadly (very recently a minor reality TV star and two family members died for exhaust gas inhalation, so it’s a real thing).
Still, if you know the risks and take precautions (like opening a window if/when you’re going to be idling for an extended period of time), there’s little to worry about.
As far as effecting the flow of exhaust gases and vehicle performance, I can’t think of any reason to be concerned.
Thanks Jason, you just confirmed what I had thought.
Yeah, I’m not too worried about the possibility of exhaust consuming the cab, I will have the downspout close enough to the side and pointed towards the outside of the truck. As well, the muffler is situated over the back seat rests meaning once a new tip is put on it, the tip will be below the box rather the cab.
As previously stated to, the truck has a suspension lift and oversized tires giving it over 3″ more clearance than stock which should help increase airflow and direct the exhaust from underneath the truck.
Tks for the help.
I have a 2000 Crown victoria…What would u recommend for it? My cats are done so im going to go with the pipes. I want nice deep roar but not to expensive.
HEy guys I got a 2002 dodge ram with the 4.7 5spd manual yes it a 4×4 its got a flopro muffler with a turn down dump after muffoer but I wanna dual it out at the back anyone here from alberta? And know a muffler shop that will build a custom y pipe for me? Im wanting it to come out at an angle right under the bumper (duals) and rwason being is with the turn down its popping and doesnt sound good at all to me it sounds like an old Cadillac with the muffler rusted out firing on 3 cyclinders right now lol
I have 350z HR dual engine stock that has been running great but i want to change the sound only. I have replacd only the muffler with a straight that has the same size pipe as stock. through for 6 months and it sounds magificent. However i am killing gas. Even though i gain 1-2mpg i still killing gas with only a straight through muffler.
People say i step on the gas too much but that is not the case since i drive the same with the stock setup. And to my prove my case i reinstalled the oem muffer and i notice that i have not been killing gas compare to the straight through muffer.
What can i do to change the sound of the exhaust wiith sacrificing the mpg? I dont really care about performance but only sound.
Angel
Angel – It’s unlikely that any muffler change would effect gas mileage 1-2mpg. How do you know that you’re driving the same? It’s human nature to hit the throttle harder and more often when the engine sounds better…
Jason,
I have been driving slow with the new muffler that I end up causing traffic on the road. Heck even slower than driving with my oem muffler. Another example, is when I have the oem muffler it takes my 7-8 days to fill up but with the straight through muffler it takes 3-4 days. It is as if I got a v8 car but really a v6.
I know this is weird, but I have also experience the same thing with my old Trailblazer that I use to have. For my trailblazer I’ve had dual and single aftermarket exhaust and they both affected the gas mileage tremendously.
This is why I think the exhaust is a waste of money unless you know the problem that I can fix so that I can get a muffler or an exhaust that for sound only not affecting the performance nor the sound…
Angel
Angel – It could be that the new after-market systems are dramatically over-sized for the system, and thus become a hinderance.
However, it’s rare for an exhaust system to make a substantial difference in any way. Most systems have minimal impact all the way around.
If you’re seeing big drops (10%) in fuel economy, than there’s something else at play. I’d check for blockages, check to make sure the muffler is designed for the car it’s installed on, check to make sure that nothing else was damaged, etc.
Good luck.
Jason,
Its a muffler designed for my 350z, which is oem size except its straight through. Nothing seemed clogged since its brand new and flows freely by the way it sounds and flows.
And since this was not the first time i experienced low mpg with my aftermarket exhauts but i have experienced exhaust mpg loss from my trailblazer since i tried three different types of exhuast.
The only one that seems the best in keeping the mpg jigh is stock but i rather just change the sound as my only preference.
Angel
have a 94 F150 and i cut off the rear cat . I want to know if the piece up front is also a cat or if its just a y pipe to connect it.if it our i wanna cut it off also but when i started it after the first it sounded like it was back firing.would the loss of back pressure cause that? So i also wanna knowthat thanks fire any help.
Troy – Cutting off cats without replacing that section of exhaust can certainly cause problems. Vehicles are designed for catalytic converters, and unless you’ve upgraded your vehicle with forced induction, there’s very little point in removing the factory-installed catalytic converters. They’re really not restrictive.
hi. I have a 2005 Lincoln ls v8, 280 hp stock 3.9l v8 it has true dual exhaust that 2″ piping.i have modified it with a k&n intake and a magna-flow cat-back that’s 2.25 with the same configuration as the stock system. when it was put in the guys at the shophad to make some adapters because the rirs weren’t quite meeting in length. so no the exhaust pipes go from 2″ down to 1.9 or something then up to 2.25 im just wondering what that’s going to do since i’m getting a tune done to the computer.
Matt – I’d say that this minor change in pipe diameter will have little or no effect…the tubing diameter changes are (relatively) small.
Jason-I just recently purchased my first diesel truck, I live in Africa so its a little 2007 Toyota Hilux pickup 4cyl Diesel (no turbo). The MPG is pretty good for heavy traffic conditions approx 22mpg but its a bit sluggish in the sand and accelleration. Plus the cabin noise on the open road is a bit loud. I plan on putting an after market cone air filter on it but I was curious about straight piping it. Would be benefit a little 4 banger diesel? I wouldnt mind better sound at the tail i just dont want it in the cab. Any thoughts.?
I have a turbocharged saab 9-3 4cylinder. With the mods I’m putting on it it’ll run 300+ bhp. Can I put a 2.5 duel exhaust on it?
Steve – That sounds like a lot of exhaust system to me. Did you look at this chart for reference?
https://www.exhaustvideos.com/faq/how-to-calculate-muffler-size-pipe-diameter/#easy
What about just mounting 2.5″ tips to a 2″ set of duals? That would preserve low-end performance and still give you the look you’re going for.
I got a nissan frontier 02 first generation 3.3l supercharger my muffler is pretty much crap and needs to be changed i have a k and n air filter system but i want to add dual exhaust pipe size approximately 2inch to 2 1/4 my friend Recommended straight pipes, i got 2 cata. Converters. Just curious if you think. Id loose power or gain verses a single or dual exhaust thanks.
sean – Straight pipes are over-rated. Contrary to popular opinion, catalytic converters really aren’t restrictive. What’s more, removing them is illegal and could have consequences down the road…so I never recommend removing them.
As for going with a dual 2″ system, that sounds OK. Just be sure to check the chart I linked to in my response to Steve above.
Okay thanks ill do that
I got a 2008 Chevy Tahoe, 5.3 V8. It has 2 Cat’s then goes into a y pipe and single all the way to the back. I want to put dual exhaust with possibly an X muffler (not sure exactly what it is called, but I have heard good things about them) and was wondering what size of pipe I would have to put on and also would it do more harm than good? I heard sometimes it can cause you to lose power when running dual exhaust on a vehicle if not done right.
Michael – See this chart: https://www.exhaustvideos.com/faq/how-to-calculate-muffler-size-pipe-diameter/#easy
I have a 2004 silverado 5.3, yesterday I took it to the exaust shop in town and had a flowmaster super 44 2 1/2 in dual 21/2 out the rear of the truck it seems I lost power from the stock exaust. Does that muffler flow too much? I did question the exaust man about it he recommended the super 44.
Clint – Hard to say (the “butt dyno” isn’t very reliable), but a dual 2.5 system sounds too big to me for a 5.3L. See our size chart here: https://www.exhaustvideos.com/faq/how-to-calculate-muffler-size-pipe-diameter/#easy
Clint I know a dual 2.5 inch system will work its the muffler i ran that same system on my 99 z71 5.3 and flowmasters are very restrictive wlswith to a v-force dual in dual out they sound better than a super44 and are way less restrictive
I bought a new 2013 F150 with the 5.0L engine and i’m not very happy with the sound of my exhaust system….with that being said ,I’ve purchased a 18x6x6 magnaflow muffler. I’m looking for that lower rumble but not rattle your windows kinda sound. My question is should this work, and will it effect my engine since I only have about 3,500 miles on it and its not quite broke in yet?
Todd – The muffler will have no effect on your engine. However, I can’t speak to how it will sound. It might be louder than you’re looking for, it might not.
I have a 2007 jeep srt8. I was thinking about taking out the suitcase muffler and installing a flowmaster 40 series. I was also thinking about removing the resonators and put straight pipes on.(keeping it the same diameter as stock) Some people are telling me i will lose hp and torque.. is this true if so why if it is less restricting. I thought resonators are just for sound to reduce cabin noise.. thanks
Tony – I can’t say for sure, but generally speaking you should only install tuned exhaust system components. If you start adding or removing parts, you could end up hurting performance. The reasons are explained in the article and in other comments above. Suffice to say, bigger isn’t always better.
Hi, I have an 08 silverado 4.8l, just wanting to swap mufflers is this an easy job like in the driveway or is it a shop job? Thank you
Daniel – It’s probably better to do it at the shop, as they can weld a new muffler on quickly and cheaply if the existing muffler needs to be cut off (corrosion can sometimes force you to cut).
Probably cost you $60 (or whatever your local muffler shop charges for 1 hr of labor).
I have a 2000 mercury grand marquis it has two dual cats that run into a Y pipe into a single outlet. Would it make a difference to make it dual all the way out with flowmasters? Or would leaving it the same with a single flowmaster be the same benefits?
Randy – Single vs. dual exit is an old question without a definite answer. Most people agree that single-exit systems trade some top-end performance for some low-end torque, which means a single-exit design is great for trucks and/or vehicles that don’t get raced.
My opinion: If you’re chasing maximum horsepower and the fastest ETs at the track, than you gotta go dual. If you want a vehicle that drives nice on the street and don’t care about winning a drag race, a single exit is very “streetable,” not to mention affordable. Just make sure to buy the right sized muffler. 🙂
I have a 06 silverado 5.3l. I’ve already added a bully dog programmer and K&N intake. I want to add a QTP exhaust cutout but I’m not sure if swapping it often would damage my engine? Does anyone know more about these QTP exhausts?
Alex – The Quick Time Performance cut-outs are a great add-on for people who are looking to drive their race car on public streets…or at least that’s my perspective. If you’ve got a drag car that needs to run unrestricted to get the best time, but you want to drive it to the track, cut-outs on a switch are convenient.
They’re also a cool gimmick for street racers and car shows – great way to get noticed and/or intimidate.
Regardless of why you want them, they pose no risk to your engine. You may find, however, that your street car pulls a little harder when the cut-outs are NOT engaged. Often times street cars produce more low-end torque with an exhaust system than without one.
Say if I were to add on a flowmaster super 40 out of the electric cutout, would I see even a small increase in hp over the stock muffler?
Alex – Perhaps I don’t understand what you’re trying to accomplish. The QTP cutouts are designed to let you run without a restriction at the touch of a button. If you’re looking for more power and aren’t trying to setup some sort of unrestricted exhaust, I would just install a tuned cat-back system on your vehicle and call it good.
The QTP electric cutouts are for drag cars and/or people who want to switch to an un-muffled exhaust system with the push of a button. Push-button activation is nice, as manual cutouts are a piping-hot PITA when it’s time to remove them or add them back on.
Jason I have a quick question for you.
I have a 05 dodge stratus sxt v6 2.7L with a new aftermarket short ram intake
So i have two questions.
1. Can my car be turned into a dual exhaust using a Y pipe or is there no room under the actual car for the Y pipe and new exhaust piping. Or even would it produce enough power for the Y pipe dual
2. This sorta goes off question one as well… currently I have the 2.25” stock piping. I am wanting to increase my piping size to 2.75 or even 3”. I do not know much about piping so i need some insight on the differences and if they can do it on my car.
Side note: I am sorta new to the car terminology and looking for a fun project. I wanted to get some bigger piping for much louder deeper tone. ( I am not looking for performance, just sound really. Its a stratus, it will never be that great)
Also, if i were to even get 2.5” piping, I was looking at a 16” cherry bomb glasspack as a muffler. Just a thought if that would be a good idea as well
Please dont rip me apart lol. Just trying to learn more and see what my options would be. My brother has an srt4 and encourages me to get 3” piping like his car so thats what i am going off of.
Matt – I’d suggest reading through the other comments and checking out our page on proper exhaust pipe sizing. Ultimately, I think the smartest thing you can do is go with a new muffler and call it good. You’re going to have a hard time finding a tuned system for a Stratus, and I really don’t recommend throwing together custom systems unless you’ve got the time and money to test some different setups.
If all you’re looking for is more exhaust sound, adding a decent muffler to your existing system will give you a decent result. No need to re-do everything (in fact, a poorly designed custom system is likely to hurt performance).
What i have currently is the stock 2.25 inch with no resonator. It has a magnaflow muffler on it but really isnt that impressive.
The local muffler shop said they could increase the piping for about 130$. So it really isnt that expensive. I am looking for mainly just an agressive loud sound. Im not really looking for performance since im mainly just messing around with the car. Its a stratus and therefore will never quite be fast.
Matt – Pipe size doesn’t effect sound or volume, at least not substantially. I’d just buy a new muffler if you’re concerned about sound.
As far as looks, a new exhaust tip will make people think you’ve got a bigger system.
Finally, I don’t suggest messing with pipe diameter on your car because a) it costs more and b) it has the potential to hurt performance, gas mileage, etc.
I have Honda City 2011 1.3 Automatic Transmission
i installed twin muffler from single muffler and it is y design is this bad ? any possible problem to have this?
Thanks!
argie – No idea. All I’d say is that putting an exhaust system on a 1.3L anything probably won’t make much difference.
I have a Holden Commodore (Aussie car, mostly GM parts) with a 235cui V6; and the exhaust system has two mufflers on it (one just after the cat and one right at the back just before the tip), and I was wondering what this is for? Extra sound muffling; or would the middle one be some form of resonator?
Guy – The muffler by the tip is probably a resonator. You can remove it with no ill effects, only it will change your exhaust note.
Alright, thanks a bunch Jason :3
I have a 98 dodge ram 1500 360 ci 4×4
I cut off the stock exhaust and bought a magnaflow muffler but shortly after took that off to.
I want an extremely loud truck that just blows out eardrums
Want should i do to it?
Right now I’m driving on straight pipe about 3′ past catalytic converter
Exhaust pipes are the stock 2.5″ pipes
Do I cut the catalytic off and make it a true dual straight pipe that’s only 2′ from manifold or what?
Suggestions?
Austin – Sorry man, but my expertise is limited when it comes to making the world’s loud truck exhaust. If you’re looking for some advice, I’d say that you should make sure you don’t have to pass an emissions test at some point in the future, that you’re not likely to get a ticket due to the noise, and that your existing setup sounds like a safety risk (your exhaust needs to get the gas fumes out from underneath the car, otherwise you may inhale these fumes accidentally).
As far as performance is concerned, a tuned exhaust is going to be more powerful that what you’ve got.
Hello. I have a 2002 chevy 2500hd with the 6.0L engine. I recently put duals on this and scrapped the stock system from cats back. Now I want to redo the system to stock because of sound and resonance reasons. Is a 3″ tail pipe too small for this truck? Originally the truck had 2 3″ pipes into the muffler and one 3.5″ tail pipe out of the muffler. However now i I cannot seem to find any 3.5″ tail pipe. Any advice is appreciated.
Thanks,
Mike
Michael – Check out our post “How to Calculate Exhaust Pipe Size” – you can find the link a few places in the comments as well as on our FAQ page.
I have a 2013 M-Sport BMW 335i.
i want to make my car louder/sportier without spending too much money and buying a full kit.. i wanted to change just the muffler and leave the regular piping. will i lose power? what is the best muffler?
I have a 2010 dodge charger 3.5L.I put a dual exhaust on it.it have two pipes coming of the manifolds into one cat convrt single pipe coming out of cat convrt going into a single in dual out stainless steel muffler with two pipes out the back with tips no muffler at the back of them.? Is that the proper set up or could I done better.
Rick – Sounds OK to me. If the muffler is sized for the engine (meaning it’s the muffler recommended for your vehicle by the muffler manufacturer) that you’re good to go.
Hey i have a 94 jetta non-turbo that i was going to put a racing header into straight pipe then into a racing muffler would that be a good way to increase power or whats your imput
Dakota – Not really a fan of racing headers on street motors, mostly because there are better ways to spend your money in terms of “bang for the buck.” However, if you’re looking to mount a header and high capacity muffler to your Jetta, make sure it’s designed for your engine (as in specifically offered by the manufacturer for your 94′). If so, you’ll get decent performance…only you may find that you trade some low-end for high-end (that happens a lot with headers).
Hey Jason I really like this site it’s very informative and especially the open ended comments section. I just got a 6spd Nissan Xterra with a 241 cubic inch 4.0l v6 with 261hp and 281lbs-ft or torque. The stock exhaust was 2.25 from the cats to what seemed like a very restrictive Y pipe. The stock muffler was 22 inches long and 5×11 round. new one is 18 inches long and 5×8 around. Per my research I purchesed a Magnaflow dual 2.25 inlet with a single 2.5 outlet but kept the stock 2.25 tailpipe which goes up over the axle and went into a 2.5 inch pipe for the last 15 inches. It sounds great and seems to have gained more power in the low to midrange with a nice burble on overrun. The only issue was the tailpipe was to low and I didn’t like the way it looked. I ended up purchasing a 18 inch Stainless Magnaflow tip with a 2.5 inch inlet for the first couple inches and goes into 3 inches the rest of the way. It’s now only an inch or som from my bumper and seems to have mellowed the sound a but inside the truck, deepened the tone and looks MUCH better. So my question is do you think I’d be better off if I went with a 2.5 inch tail pipe from the muffler and then to the 3 inch tip? They guy who did my exhaust said that it would change the sound but not make any difference with regards to power since it’s after the muffler. He did a great job welding it up and seems to know what he’s talking about for sure. My thinking is with the Dual 2.25’s going in it woulld be better to have a 2.5 out but I’m happy with the way it is now just worried that a missing out and a bigger tailpipe might deepen the tone even more, at least below 3000-3500 RPM. Right now it sounds like a v8 at idle and up to about 1800rpm, then up to 3000 or so like the big 6 that it is and beyond that a 350Z although the truck only has 850 miles on it so I’m sure it will get better, I know my previous vehicles did even when I just did a muffler swap. Any way after reading this novel I wrote what are your thoughts?? Lol Also comments on my setup from other posters are welcome too
Shawn – My short answer is that changing the tubing coming out of the muffler isn’t going to have a huge effect on anything either way, at least if the change is reasonable (e.g., you’re not replacing a 2.25″ tube with a 4″ tube).
Whether you put a 2.5″ tube out of the muffler or a 2.25″ tube, the basic performance of your setup won’t be effected very much (if at all).
Oh and I niticed reading the link you provided it says 185hp per pipe but I would think that is matters more for the pile from the cats to the muffler then after the muffler?? Thanks!!
Wow thanks for the prompt response. Thats what I figured. I’ll just leave it the way it is considering I’m more then happy with it as is. If the stock tail pile starts rotting out faster then the rest then maybe I will replace it with a 2.5 inch but other then that it’s certainly not worth the extra money or time, thanks again.
I have a 2013 Dodge Durango v6 315hp true dual stock exhaust 2.1/4 pipes. I brought it into a local shop and asked them to remove the muffler and resonators, and replace with two 40 series flowmasters. They were pushing me to get 2 1/2 pipes. I cant say I know everything about cars but are they trying to take advantage of me? I explained to them it would seem unnecessary cause the only mod I have it a cold air intake. What should I do?
I have a ford Taurus 200HP 3.0L DOHC V6. It has a Y pipe dual exhaust and I just had the resonator taken off professionally. I want to add two mufflers to the like a flowmaster or a magnaflow. my question is with not having much power dose the brand matter or can I get better sound with a one brand over another!
Mike – I’d like to tell you that one brand is better than another, but it really comes down to your specific vehicle. Some mufflers just sound better on some cars than they do others. You’ll have to listen to the videos.
Hey, I have a 1987 mitsubishi montero (Dodge Raider) short wheelbase. Last week I cut the factory replacement bosal muffler off and replaced it with a flowmaster 40 series.( because its the third bosal this year!!) ,anyways i have 1 7/8 pipe until i get to the muffler( which is 2.5in 2.5 out) . I have it all converted and clamped without any leaks but is there a chance that I caused it to loose high end torque? It just doesnt climb hills on the highway as well. its a 2.6 i4 with a weber 32/36 conversion carb from a 86isuzu trooper with a 2.3.
Could swapping jets out for larger ones help compensate for my issue?
keep in mind that im running 3300rpm at 70mph
Sorry its 2.25 in and out
Tyler – It’s certainly possible that the new muffler is hurting performance. It sounds like it’s too big.
However, I’m wondering why you’ve gone thru 3 mufflers…that might be the key to figuring out your problem. If it’s because you’re off-roading and damaging the muffler, you should check to make sure the rest of the exhaust system is functioning correctly. A clogged or damaged catalytic converter can steal a lot of power.
I recently put a flowmaster dual exhaust w 3 inch pipes on my 2008 Ram 1500 4.7L v-8. Since then, it seems as if I have lost some of the “pick up” I had before putting on the dual. Before, with the factory single exhaust, I would step on the gas and my head would be thrown back into my seat. Now, not so much. Is there any particular reason for this or is there anything I can do to help this matter?
Ryan – This is a great example of how installing an over-sized exhaust system can ruin low-end torque. Please read the post above (item #1) and then consider getting an exhaust that’s the right size for your vehicle…and be sure to leave a negative review for your muffler shop too. If they put a dual 3″ system on a small V8, they don’t deserve to be in business.
The post includes a link to a table with the right size for your vehicle (your dual system should be 2″ in diameter, not 3″). A dual 3″ system is the right size for a 700hp race truck, not a 300hp (or less) 2008 Ram 1500.
Correction…. My tips are 3″ …… Not sure what that makes the actual pipes
I recently upgraded my 1965 Mustang 200CI inline 6 from the stock exhaust to a Clifford Performance header, dual 2 1/4 exhaust with dual turbo style 3 chamber mufflers. This was all suggested for “the best performance” from Clifford Performance. The problem I am experiencing now is that while the car runs and sounds great at start up, once the car reaches operating temperature, it dies. When attempting to restart, engine acts as if it is getting no fuel or spark (just rolls and rolls). Starting fluid will cause a momentary restart, but engine will die again immediately. Again, car runs fine when “cold”. Mechanical fuel pump is operating properly. Coil is operating properly. Could this be a timing issue….or perhaps not enough fuel flow from the stock carb now that the engine can “breathe’? Thoughts?
John – Beats me. Dying when warm could be an ignition problem (broken coil) or a fuel problem (too much fuel).
I’d suggest running this one by someone on a classic Mustang forum. 🙂
I have a 56Chev Bel Air show car with a 383 Stroker engine. I believe it develops about 425hp. I bought it with four 2 1/2″ exhaust pipes which start at the header collecter and proceed straight to the rear bumper. I want to upgrade my system and have it look great as it is meant to be a Show car I also want to maximize performance as it is equipped with a 411 rear which has been tubbed 14″ and accomodates a pair of Micky Thompson slicks.
Does anyone have some suggestions or changes that might help?
Thanks
2006 Chevy Silverado 4X4 Lifted 35’s, I bought this truck stock and added all this plus more. I had a bulldog programmer in it and it used to read 19mpg when i had a flow master muffler, then i swapped it out for 2″ piping from the headers and added a magna flow muffler and drop it fight behind the rear tire and my bulldog says i get 16mpg now. What did i do wrong in the build? Im thinking of going back to stock, because it makes me wanna use my truck less because of all the fuel i use.
Also would 456 gears help out in fuel economy?
Javier – Don’t know about gears – you’ll have to do the math on that and see if they’ll lower your RPMs during normal cruising – but the headers are likely the culprit.
I have a 95 Ford Ranger 4.0 v6 that has a half pipe with a glasspack on it right now. I was thinking of going with the Flowmaster super 44 dual exhaust muffler and going with dual halfpipes? The idea sounds good but I’m not sure what the best option is. I like the rumble of my glasspack but I need a new exhaust.
Hello, i have a 09 gmc canyon 5.3L and want an exhuast system what are advantages of true dual straight pipes if there is any. what size pipe should i run from the headers? my engine is rated at 300hp. im new to exhaust systems.
Kyle – See https://www.exhaustvideos.com/faq/how-to-calculate-muffler-size-pipe-diameter/
I am getting a 1999 Dodge Dakota with a 3.9 V6 in it. It has somewhat of a deep rumble but i want alittle more “Meanness” in it if you know what i mean. What can i do to achieve this?
I have a 2000 Dakota r/t with the 5.9 and I was wanting to put a new exhaust system from the headers back and im wanting long tube headers with either a true duel or maybe a x pipe duel with flowmasters 10 series muffler on 2′ or 2’1/4″ cause im going to do some upgrading but nothing to serious for now and I would like to hear your thoughts on it and im very open to suggestions cause I want power and a great sound thanks
I have a 2014 dodge ram 1500 6 cylinder single pipe and I wanna add cat back dual exhaust. Is it worth it? And if so what kind is best? Thank you!
Its a 3.6 vvt 6cylinder
Justin – That pentastar V6 is pretty much optimized at the factory. Unless you’d like a louder exhaust note, I wouldn’t touch it.
Hello, I have a focus svt which uses a 2.28” exhaust from the factory.
The stock exhaust has 3 mufflers /resonators. Now my question is, I just bought a magnaflow Cat back, that has a 2.25″ exhaust but only has 1 muffler and 1 straight through resonator. Do you think the piping size decrease will affect the performance negatively? Even the slightest?
The exhaust setup is [factory 4-2-1 header] 2.5″cat delete pipe,2.5” flex pipe, 2.25″ magnaflow cat-back
Magnaflow doesn’t have any dyno graphs for the svt model focus nor can I find any dyno graphs online. It is a N/A 4cyl that pushes no more than 160whp with the modifications on it now.
Thanks in advance and best regards!
Matthew – I’d be surprised if it made any difference…the sizing is very close.
Cool car, BTW. Back in the day I really wanted one of those. 🙂
Hi there, I have a 2011 Diesel F-350 crew cab 4×4 standard box, and I would like to improve the diesel performance in this animal because diesel price is killing me already. Some one told that changing the exhaust system wil improve diesel performance. What is your recomendation?
Thanks a lot in advance.
Adrian I know you issue within the first sentence you have the power stroke the new power stroke isn’t Any good on fuel the Cummins and duramax however I see them get 900-1500km to a tank easily but I’d say get a CAI 4″ are straight pipe air horn and a chip and you’d get the same
Could I run two strait pipes on my 87 camaro with no y pipe would it hurt anything and could I run open headers for a few day?
i have a 1995 mustang gt with the current exhuast set up: stock headers, catalytic converters taken out, and then strait pipe to single chamber flow masters with turn downs. the car sounds and runs great, but the drone inside the cab is just to much to bear anymore. i want to get a flowmaster 50 series muffler to put on instead, but they are $120 each and i am trying to save money, so my solution is to run it like this: stock headers to h-pipe then to a y-pipe that would go into a single inlet 50 series muffler with dual outlets and then run that to the back of the car. my only concern is that it may cause too much back pressure? but i dont know if it would since its a high flow muffler. what are your thoughts?
jonathan – Messing with splitting and combining the exhaust won’t help with sound, and it certainly won’t help with performance.
The muffler(s) are your problem. Replace them with something quieter and/or high quality and the drone will go away.
I have a 2013 nissan frontier 2.5 turbo diesel and want a 3″ turbo back echaust? Will this benifet from this kit? Also would it be a good idea to get it tuned after placing the exhaust on?
Rowan – Diesels almost always benefit from bigger exhausts. I say go for it.
As for tuning, it’s an excellent idea as long as you understand the trade-offs. On one hand, you’ll get more power. On the other hand, you may see more smoke coming out of your exhaust pipe and/or decreased fuel economy. If you invest in a tuner, make sure you can change the settings once you’ve had a chance to see how they effect your truck.
Hey Jason, I have a Chrysler 300 Touring Plus (3.5L v6), so far I have added a CAI, ported throttle body, and a tru dual magnaflow exhaust with an X-pipe. I would like to add a ported lower intake manifold as well as a set of jba shorties headers and finish it off with a tune. No plans on cams… at least for now lol.
My question is: if i install these headers (http://www.jbaheaders.com/detail_shortyV.asp?id=1920SJT) will this create excesive flow and cause hp and torque loss?.
All feedback and knowledge is greatly appreciated
Jonathan – Sounds like you’re building a very cool 300.
I don’t have any specific comments on that part, but I will tell you:
– I’ve interviewed some of the folks at JBA and they’re sharp
– Too much flow isn’t bad – it’s too much area for exhaust gases to expand and cool. With shorty headers, your choice of exhaust tubing after the headers becomes all that more important. It’s vital to pair up headers with exhaust systems.
– Headers always change your vehicle’s performance characteristics…you will find you have more power at some RPMs and less at others.
On balance, you’ll probably find your vehicle is faster, but I’d advise you to contact JBA, ask to speak with someone about your specific application, and get their advice.
Additionally, I’d suggest working with a custom tuner and/or tuning the vehicle yourself after making this change. Slight tweaks to valve timing are probably going to be needed after you make this change (new cams could be big).
Speaking of new cams, have you found those yet? You might call the cam manufacturer and see what headers they recommend.
Good luck!
Thanks a lot for the quick response and the great advice. I owe you a cold one!
hi I have a dmax diesel ute ,3 litre turbo 08 model,just wondering if you can put a cannon on it,cheers
I have a 2004 f150 5.4L. The stock exhaust is 2.5″ from manifold to cats, then after the y pipe it is 2.5″ single the rest of the way. Would I gain anything or hurt anything if I removed the 2.5″ single pipe after the y and making it a 3″ single. I was thinking about getting a 2.5″ to 3″ y, 3″ intermediate pipe, 3″ tailpipe.
Andy advice on how this would affect power curve or mpg would be appreciated.
I’d guess that replacing a single 2.5″ with a single 3″ won’t have any substantial effect.
What about installing a true dual cat-back system from Magnaflow or Flowmaster? Those systems are tuned…you’ll gain power and it will sound good too. Won’t cost you more than $600-800.
Thanks for the fast reply,
Honestly I haven’t really thought about duals. It just seemed restrictive that two 2.5″ pipes dumped into a single 2.5″ pipe.
You mentioned “tuned”. What is the difference between a “tuned” system and a system that the local exhaust shop builds?
Thanks again for the info.
First, factory setups aren’t really that bad anymore. Automakers pay a lot more attention to exhaust systems now than they did 20 years ago…you’re stock setup is probably a good compromise between power and fuel economy. The only problems with stock setups today is that they are a) quiet and b) inexpensive. If you’re willing to live with a little noise and don’t mind spending money, a tuned after-market system is great.
Tuned systems are designed on a dyno by an experienced crew. The people that do this work at Borla, Flowmaster, etc., are most likely far better at building systems than your local shop.
What’s more, most cat-back systems are designed to use factory hangers, built with top quality steel, and the bends are made with a mandrel (most muffler shops don’t have a mandrel, so the tubing is crushed a bit as it’s bent).
Basically, if you’re not going to opt for a tuned cat-back system, you probably just want to add a muffler to your stock system and call it a day. A lot of people who buy “custom” systems from the local muffler shop are disappointed.
Hello, I have a 2013 V6 Charger with 8spd, it comes with a single muffler with a Y- pipe extending to two resonators and exhaust exits. I installed a Flowmaster super 44 and removed the resonators with straight pipes. The muffler was 2.25 which is the same size as the original muffler, but I believe the guy at the shop put in 2.5 inch pipes instead of the stock 2.25 despite me insisting on 2.25 inch. I put the exhaust purely for sound and it sounds amazing for a V6, but I feel I’ve lost a bit of power and the car shifts have become harsher. Is there anything I should be worried about. I’m about to tune the car soon and wanted to know if I should dump this setup altogether despite the fact I feel performance of the car will increase after the tune.
Thank you!
David – A 2.5″ pipe won’t be much different than a 2.5″ pipe. It’s very hard to “feel” the effects of an exhaust change. Unless you’ve got the before and after dyno runs to support your concerns, I’d say you’ve probably got nothing to worry about.
i am wanting to put true duels on my 1994 Chevy c1500. i have 10 series flowmasters but dont know if i need headers, or could i just use the exhaust manifolds i have already? ( it has a 5.7L 350 )
mark – You don’t need headers, but you might really enjoy them. Vehicles from the early to mid 90’s can often benefit substantially from headers, a paired exhaust, and an aftermarket tune.
i have changed my mind since i last posted the comment. i am now wanting to put a 3″ exhaust ( 2 in 1 out ) and dump it behind the cab. one of my dads friends had it on his truck and it sounded good. im going to do this but instead of a ten series flowmaster im going to use a 40 series for back pressure and noise reasons. im just going to buy the pipe from my local parts store and my dads friend will weld it up for me. i may post a video on youtube in a couple weeks after i get paid and get the exhaust done.
does an aftermarket muffler(stock headers and midpipe)can hurt my mx5 2013 engine and will it affect fuel economy?thanks
Marc – It certainly can. Are you buying a tuned system (headers back) or are you mixing and matching different parts?
If you’re mixing and matching, you run the risk of reducing power (at least on the low end). Considering all the Miata racing leagues and performance part options, I’d say that you should be asking for recommendations on Miata forums.
thanks jason for the fast reply!i will just replace the muffler and keep the rest stock.
Hello Jason, I drive a ’13 V6 Charger, which has a stock exhaust system containing a single muffler extending to two resonators and tips. I put in a Super 44 muffler instead of the stock one, and cut out the resonators and put in some pipe. I feel like I’ve lost a noticeable amount of power, the car stalls for a bit when going over 2.2k RPM while I’m going light on the pedal. Honestly I hadn’t noticed that with the stock exhaust, and the car’s shifts are much harsher (probably because of the straight pipes?). The stock system had 2.25 inch piping so that’s the size I got for the muffler, but I feel like the guy put in 2.5′ inch piping instead of the resonators and that’s what took a hit on my car, despite the fact that I hadn’t really put in a good performance muffler in the first place. He didn’t understand much English and looks like he went 2.5′ despite the fact I insisted on 2.25′ piping.
Honestly I’ve put in the exhaust mainly for sound, but now that I’m thinking of getting a tune, I want to solve the exhaust issue first. What do you think is the issue here, the piping (which I need to check first!) or the entire setup in the first place? Could this be solved by a tuner or do I need to change the setup first?
Thank you!
David – An after-market tuner will help solve a lot of the problems you’re experiencing. If you had it to do over again, it would be best to install either a tuned system OR just replace the muffler…all the other steps were unnecessary (and probably effected low-end performance).
Still, a Diablo tuner (or similar) can fix it easy enough.
David,
Not sure if it matters at this point but I just saw your posting. I recently got a 2012 V6 charger. I replaced the factory muffler with the same flowmaster super44, deleted the resonator, went from 2.25″ to 2.5″ pipes, and put some chrome tips on (This was all done by a muffler shop). The drone was horrible in all RPM ranges and I was noticing the same loss of power, sputtering and stalling in the low RPMS, and just some weird running issues. I took it back to the shop and they switched me out with a magnaflow muffler. The sound is awesome across the board, the power seems to be back to normal if not a little better, and there is no weird idle or sputtering. I would definitely recommend that as the better option!
hi Jason
I have a 94 Honda ballade which is at 117bhp. I have a single factory exhaust system. I would like to maybe take out the cat converter and the resonator and add an H pipe with a big silencer and a big tail pipe, in order to create more flow and more noise. However i have been reading some of your comments and you say it would not be wise to add a dual exhaust system on a 4 cylinder engine, because there is not enough output of exhaust gases. So my question is how can i safely achieve a more efficient setup on my exhaust system while generating a much nicer sound and more power? Please let me know your thoughts…
Regards
Jason
Jason – My standard advice to anyone with a mostly stock vehicle is to buy a tuned cat-back system from an exhaust manufacturer like Flowmaster or Ingen or whatever. Tuned cat-back systems have been dyno tested and demonstrated to boost performance.
Building your own system *can* be effective, but most of the time the systems people build hurt low-end performance (even muffler shops hurt performance when they build “custom” systems, as many of the people running the shop aren’t focused on street performance).
Also, catalytic converters dont’ really effect performance…at least not until you start making major changes to the engine.
Finally, if you’ve strapped a turbo onto your vehicle, a supercharger, etc., than things will change. But if your vehicle is stock (or mostly stock, eg just a programmer and an intake), there’s no reason to invent your own exhaust system.
I have a dodge ram 1500 5.7L I want to put 4inch duel exhaust stacks on it. using the factory Y pipe and cats then use a banks monster muffler 3in to 3out then run 4inch duel stacks will this hurt the truck in any way..Iam not looking for speed or anything just looking to dress it up.
Hurt your vehicle? No. Reduce power and fuel economy? Probably.
But it will be different. That’s always cool. 🙂
after installing an exhaust system does the fuel economy really goes very much down
I have a 98 mustang v6 and I want to convert it to dual exhaust. I’m going to order the parts from a mustang modding site. The new mid pipe and catback are the same diameter as the stock exhaust. How will the new exhaust affect my cars performance at the low mid and high rpms?
Tanner – Stock tubing size = no change. Substantial changes in size (which I would define as a half inch or bigger) = small but noticeable change.
I have a 1999 Dodge ram 1500 w/5.9 that is completely stock. I’m going to get dual exhaust starting right after the catalytic converter, I’m going for a pretty loud exhaust, so would I do any damage to ANYTHING if I didn’t put any mufflers on it at all?
Clint – The only damage would be to your ears. 🙂
Thanks for the quick reply, I’m also gonna grab a cold air intake, and I was thinking about a performance chip, Do you know of a good chip at a descent price without that effecting my truck in any negative way?
Clint – I’d invest in a tuner from Bullydog, Hypertech, or SuperChips.
hey Jason, I just bought a 2013 toyota tundra, its basically right off the factory line, less than 6000 miles, I am looking towards putting cat-back dual tip exhaust in it. I was wondering if this was a good idea? I am not sure if I have two cats, stock or just one, and/or what kind of exhaust to go with. I know a lot of people like magnaflow and flowmaster but I was listening to some borsa and corsa exhaust vids and they sound pretty good. Could you please recommend what I should do for either situation, that is, single cat or dual cat, and which exhaust is going to be the loudest, deepest sound i can get? Thanks -matt
Jason,
Curiosity struck me, and instantly after posting about my 2013 tundra I went outside with a flashlight and looked under my truck. I have dual cats that feed in to one exhaust and therefore one tail pipe. So now the question is, is cat-back duals still the way to go? and which brand should I choose for the best and loudest sound. Thanks for your time – Matt
matt – If you want to go loud, I’d go Flowmaster or Magnaflow. If you’re trying to make some noise but don’t want to worry about drone, I’d go TRD. As far as adding a cat-back dual, it’s a good idea. But I wouldn’t every replace the exhaust manifold on that truck…Toyota put a lot of money into that part, and it’s about as good as stock manifolds get.
Hey Jason, Thanks for the quick response. Were you referring to TRD as in Toyota racing development? Because The truck already is a TRD rock warrior. I guess I was confused as to what you meant by that. Thanks again, -Matt
I have an 88 ford thunderbird (5.0 standard output) and I was looking to upgrade from the y pipe exhaust to a true dual exhaust (headers, hpipe, tailpipes). However my stock pipes are 2″ and it seems impossible to find an off road h pipe and tails in 2 1/4″ size. Is it bad to go with an off-road h pipe and tails that are 2.5″ in diameter? I also heard I should go no larger than 1 1/2″ header tubes, but the ones I bought are BBK and they are 1 5/8″. Is any of this gonna cause problems ?
Thanks for any help,
Gary
Gary – First, I’ve never seen any demonstrable value come from including an h or x pipe on a V8. Both sides of a V8’s exhaust system are producing exhaust gases at about the same rate, so there’s no unbalance between sides that needs to be planned for (V6’s, however, benefit quite a bit from an h or x pipe).
Second, there are a lot of 5.0L headers out there – you shouldn’t have any trouble getting a dyno graph from the manufacturer or whatever setup you’re looking at. If 1 5/8 tubing is all that’s available, and if the dyno graphs look good, I say go for it.
Three, there’s a very big difference between a dual 2″ system and a dual 2.5″ system – that extra half inch increases the tubing cross section over 60%. I would *not* go with a dual 2.5″ system unless your T-bird is pushing 500hp.
Will exhaust eliminator pipes hurt the HP on a 1994 corvette Lt1? Will they hurt anything? Will they affect the back pressure on the Lt1 engine. Thanks, any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.
In order:
1. No, but they may hurt low-end torque.
2. No.
3. Probably.
Browse the other comments for the “why,” as this question has been asked a few times.
Is having my 2003 F-150 Y pipped from the cat converter back running 2.5 inch pipes? I told the guy I only wanted 2 inch pipes but he put 2.5 inch pipe on it. Is it killing HP or anything? I’ve already burnt up my 02 sensors and a friend said this exhaust kid could have caused it
I doubt it’s causing your O2 sensors to fail. Bad gas or an engine running rich are more likely causes…and considering the age, you could be burning oil, which also ruins O2 sensors.
But internet diagnosis is hard. See a mechanic. 🙂
Hi, I have a completely stock 1971 cougar xr7 351 Cleveland 2v , it has two separate exhaust manifolds cause it goes to a “Y” then to one single muffler, I have heard to cut the “Y” out and go dual from that point out, and I have heard to install another “Y” then dual exhaust out from there? Which is better if I remain the same pipe ID?
Darren – You can do either. If money isn’t a concern, going with a “true dual” is probably the best route, at least if you anticipate adding-on to the engine at some point in the future.
If you’re not really concerned about future performance, however, or if you’re trying to save, a dual in single out (or dual in dual out) muffler is fine.
Finally, for tubing sizes, see our post “how to calculate exhaust pipe sizes.”
2009 ford F150 platinum 5.4 4×4 has a corsa cold air intake, will adding a corsa performance exhaust dual rear swept side exit 3″ pipe be good for my truck?
Carlos – It will probably have no effect.
I have a 97 cougar with the 4.6L V8, it has duals from the manifold but they Y into a single and then right before the rear axle it Ys back into duals and then has two mufflers right before the tips. Would i get better mpg if i took out the Ys and just had it running two duals from the manifold through the cats into two mufflers, and should i move the mufflers forward or leave them where they are?
I doubt gas mileage would change enough to justify the cost of adding on new parts. However, that assumes that the existing system is functioning correctly. If there are any blockages due to rust, than replacing the current system will absolutely improve fuel economy.
As for placing the mufflers, I’d lead them where they are. Being mounted towards the rear makes them less important to the overall system. It also reduces drone.
Hey, I have a 2007 Holden rodeo 3lt turbo Diesel 4cyl engine with a 2.5″ exhaust. I have been thinking about cutting the muffler off and replacing it with a straight through hot dog muffler. Do you think this would make it to loud? And also do you think I would get any power increase? Thanks..
Mason – I don’t think removing the muffler will make your diesel much louder. Most of the straight pipe diesels I hear just have a higher pitch and slightly louder exhaust. As far as power, I don’t think it will make much difference without a tune.
Hi! I recently got a 2009 Honda Civic 1.8 VXi Hatchback. The cat was removed, and it really sounded terrible and the power dropped tremendously. The car has no branch, so I replaced the original box where the cat was with a straight flowing pipe with a mini-cat included to ensure the maintenance light stays off. That didnt change anything … still bad performance and a bad noise which seemed to shift below the car now. So I just put on a freeflow exhaust system – two outlets (since this was the construction of the original). Yet the car’s performance is still nowhere near what it was stock (actually it is quite terrible). Any idea what I can do to get my power back?
Melnick – This is why most people don’t suggest cutting off catalytic converters (as I’m sure you know). The engine computer measures performance before and after the catalytic converter to verify that combustion is efficient. If the O2 sensors are missing – or, more likely, replaced with O2 simulators – the engine can respond very poorly.
My best bit of advice on a 2009 anything is to get the factory catalytic converter and factory 02 sensors back into place. That will probably fix the problems you’re having.
What’s more, contrary to popular belief, catalytic converters really aren’t constrictive. At least not for the last 20 years or so.
Thanks for your reply Jason – I was afraid you’d say that 😉 Getting a factory cat again would be extremely expensive (at least here in South Africa). The car does still have its original O2 sensors at least. I forgot to mention that the EGR system was also blocked off when the cat was removed – not sure if this worsened the problem even further? The only alternative I can currently consider is a piggyback to perhaps override the factory ECU and so accomodate for the “upgrades” (<- sarcasm)? Would this be a waste of money to even consider or could this perhaps be a second-best solution (versus reinstalling factory cat)?
A blocked EGR could explain what’s gone wrong too.
Does the vehicle have O2 simulators installed? If not, you might try buying some of those. Their purpose is to “fool” the engine computer into thinking the vehicle has a functional catalytic converter. That might address some of the poor performance.
If you lived in the USA, odds are good you could sue the previous owner. I hope you’re able to do the same in South Africa, as that person owes you a lot of money. 🙂
Thanks for your time 🙂 I’ll definitely look into it! Chrz
i have a 2001 1.2 renault clio i was wondering what would be the best but cheapest exhaust for my car? any suggestions?
i have a 2001 1.2 renault clio i was wondering what would be the best but cheapest pipe for my car? any suggestions?
Hey i have a 1996 acura rl 3.5 it has a single exhuast but it has dual pipes coming out of the engine not sure if it has dual catalytic converters but i wanted to see if i could throw dual exhaust on it. Also i wanted to know if i could put straight pipes on it before it hits the catalytic converter (where those 2 pipes come out of my engine? Also would i need new headers? Thanks in advance!
My EGR is causing my check engine light to come on is there any way i could clean it out without buying a new catalytic converter? Or. Just get straight pipes as i said in my previous comment ^^^
Andrew – You can put a dual cat-back exhaust on your Acura, but I wouldn’t recommend creating a true dual. The problem is that the vehicle is programmed to run with one cat. If you add another and split things up, the engine computer won’t know what to do.
The same goes for removing the cats altogether. You can buy O2 sensor “simulators” that will trick the engine into thinking you still have the factory setup, but that’s not going to net you any real power. The best thing you can do to your exhaust is to buy a tuned cat-back and move on to something else, like a turbo kit, nitrous, internals, etc.
As for the EGR problems, you can absolutely try cleaning things. That works sometimes.
Jason – I just bought a Ford F 150 XTL Supercrew with a 3.7l . What would you suggested I do to give this V6 more power and mpg ? Cold air intake ? Headers? Cat back ? Supercharger which I don’t know if they make one for that size engine.. Etc.. I’ve read some mixed reviews on cold air intakes that they are bs and a waste of money that doesn’t help with more hp or mpg. Your Thoughts Thankx
Gungo – The newer the truck, the less valuable things like cold air intakes and exhaust systems become. I’m not saying that they don’t add power, but it’s hard to detect the difference without dyno testing.
My best advice is to find an engine tuner (like something from Bully Dog) for your vehicle. Ford trucks can often be tuned to produce more power, as long as you’re willing to run on premium gas only.
Jason – I put 91 in my truck for good reason. I think it’s a better gas overall. More octane in it. Why wound a engine tuner help produce more power , will it mess up my trucks computer ? Or engine in the long run. Ford says the truck has 302 hp . I’m not racing it or towing a huge load , it’s a v6 . It can’t tow much anyways . I just want a lil more pick up and go … Plus when I load up the truck with family and camping gear…it needs a lil more balls … And I wanted to put on bigger wheels and tires hoping the extra horsepower will help with the added weight. I think I’ll get a air intake and cat back dual exhaust too start with and maybe a tuner if you tell me how I can benefit from it. Thankx Jason
Gungo – First, there’s no mechanical reason to use premium octane in an engine designed for 85 or 87 octane. While the higher octane gas is a little “cleaner” (it has more detergents and additives, typically), the factory engine timing is set for the lower octane. This is precisely why an engine tuner can add horsepower…the timing can be advanced a bit to take advantage of the higher octane rating of premium fuel.
Higher octane is more resistant to detonation, and when you advance the timing, you cause things to run a tiny bit “hotter” than stock. This heat translates to quite a bit more power (relatively speaking). Since you’re already buying premium, there’s really no downside to adding an after-market engine tuner. You’ll see a 15-25hp increase, depending on the tuner and the specific settings.
Finally, there’s no risk of damage. Your engine computer is smart enough to keep things in check. All a performance tuner does is a) force you to buy premium gas and b) harden your shifts, so acceleration feels a little snappier (which has no impact on anything – not even true performance – but it feels faster). For $200, they’re a decent investment.
Hi jayson! I have a question im station here in germany.
I have 2011 ford taurus SE. I cut off the resonator and put a cherrybomb glasspack and also replace the muffler with flowmaster 44.. Will that effect my engine? Is that good or bad to replace my orignal parts?
Thank you.
Ronnel – It won’t hurt anything, but it might not help either. The best add-on is a tuned cat-back system. Everything else is a crap shoot – maybe it works, and maybe it doesn’t.
Of course, having said this, I don’t know that anyone makes a tuned cat-back for a Taurus…so have fun, I guess. 🙂
thanks for reply. I guess i just want lil sound in my taurus hehe yeah they dont have any cat back system for SE only for SHO model…
One more thing jason i have bad drone in my cabin its sucks you think resonance j pipe will help?
Thank you
Hey I have a 2010 kia soul. Was wondering what suggestion you could make for a do it yourself exhaust upgrad for me. I’m just looking to get a clean sound no farting.
Jake – It’s a question of displacement. Your Kia doesn’t have a big motor, so your exhaust sound is going to be very raspy. Some people like raspy (see Johnny’s comment), but it’s a sound a lot of people don’t like. I’d definitely recommend watching some videos of Kia Souls to see if you like the exhaust system.
As for a system for your vehicle, I’d recommend a tuned cat-back. You can install it yourself with just a little bit of work.
And now for something a little different. I have a 1980 Triumph TR7 Convertible. The car has a 01 Ford 5.0 with Air Flow Research heads. The engine is producing 400 HP and roughly 400ft lbs torque.
My question is, Since this is a european sports car, i want to retain that famous sports car sound of ferraris and lambos. I have heard a few hi end Nissans with a great euro sound as well. Which companies sell the best product for tone as well as power?
Johnny – Ferraris and Lambos frequently have high-revving V8s…a late-model 360 redlines at 8500RPM. Your 5.0L Ford (which is a fine engine) redlines at ~6000RPM. You’re not going to get that raspy, high-revving sound that Ferrari is famous for.
However, you can play around with mufflers tuned for imports. You might check the sound clips for V8 BMWs and see if there’s something that sounds the way you want.
Hey, I am doing a custom exhaust for my Honda Accord Coupe. I need an opinion (professional opinion) as to what pipe size should I use? My Honda is a 2.4L I-Vtec. Should I go 2″
Paul – As I’ve said many times, there are only two options I recommend:
1. Stick with the OEM tubing size. The OEM engineers know how to size things correctly.
2. Buy a tuned cat-back exhuast, and leave the tubing size up to the folks who design the system.
Hi there, I was wondering if you have any tips for me into improving the exhaust system in my car, a Hyundai Avega/Accent 2007 with 1.5L SOHC, 4 cylinder engine, I obsess the nice high revving sound of a V8, is there any way I can get a nice exhaust sound without harming my performance? And how bad is it when you change your normal small with a big tube exhaust tip (not sure what they’re called but I hope you understand) into a big bore exhaust?
hi jason.
ive got an 88 gmc sierra 305 tbi
with y pipe to 3″ single flowmaster 40 dual 2.5″ outlet.
get hell of a drone in cab, will an 18″ louvered resonator help with this?
what would it do to exterior exhaust note?
cheers
tony – The best way to eliminate drone is to go with a quieter muffler. However, if that’s not an option, you can try the following:
1. A resonator of a tuned length…you’ll have to try a few different lengths and see what works, but it is possible to eliminate drone this way
2. Moving the muffler further back from the cab
3. Moving the exhaust tips from the sides to the back (if they’re not to the back already)
4. Putting downward pointing tips on your exhaust
5. Putting a rubber mat in your truck bed
good luck!
I went with the Black Widow 180’s on my 2011 Mustang. They sound great and I don’t get any drone.
Hello, I have a 2008 mustang v6, I installed a pypes dual exhaust conversion cat back exhaust along with a few engine mods and tuning. I just recently got some high flow cats put in and now whenever I accelerate there is a loud popping sound at higher Rpms or when i step on the gas. When it starts up, idles or even when you rev the engine it’s fine, no noise. Only under load and higher Rpms and speeds it makes that popping noise and I sometimes get codes that my 02 sensors are running rich and I start smelling burning sounds, all my ignition components are fine and brand new, what could be the problem? Tuning ? I have never had this problem before installing the high flow cats. Thanks for any feedback !
Gabe – That sounds like a tuning problem to me…you’re hearing a backfire at WOT, the engine is popping codes, and you’re smelling something. My advice would be to a) stop driving your Mustang aggressively until this problem is fixed and b) contact the tuning company for help.
Want to know if i should do a 2 chamber or 3 chamber muffler… 03 Taurus sel 3.0 ohv
Want to know if i should do a 2 chamber or 3 chamber muffler… 03 Taurus sel 3.0 ohv … Looking for more performance in general.. Not a lot of options with this car… Like intake and what not… Ideas?
Eric – I have no advice for you…tuning up a 2003 Taurus is a little too challenging to consider, even for me. My best tip is to get something a little more tunable. 🙂
So it looks like to me according to your chart that my 2009 Dodge Ram 1500 4WD w/5.7 liter Hemi rated at 390 hp has a 3″ single exhaust which is 1/4″ too small for that application. Did Chrysler make it this way for a reason. If I install a new muffler and go with 3″ in w/ 2.50″ ou dual exhaust, it should breathe very well.
Donnie – Ram (and other manufacturers) frequently undersize their exhaust systems, at least relative to the chart. This is because you only need the full 3.25″ of tubing for the *top end* of your motor’s RPM range.
Most people want a vehicle that’s tuned to perform on the street. A smaller exhaust tube diameter will perform better at lower RPMs, which means better low-end torque and off-the-line performance. If you want to race your truck, you should absolutely increase the size of your exhaust. But if you’re trying to maintain your truck’s off-the-line torque, going bigger would be a mistake.
As for putting two 2.5 pipes after the muffler, I’m not sure that’s a good idea. I’d recommend investing in either a tuned cat back system or just replacing the OEM muffler with something louder (assuming you want a louder exhaust note). Ad-hoc exhaust systems are usually disappointing – if you can’t afford to test a few different setups, don’t bother. Just buy something that’s already been tuned by a company that knows what they’re doing (Magnaflow, Borla, Flowmaster, etc).
Isn’t a tuned cat back system the same as 3″ in and (2) 2 1/2″ pipes out which is behind the muffler. This what I was describing and you said that it wouldn’t be a great idea. And I keep hearing “tuned” exhaust systems. What’s the difference between a tuned cat back system versus a hand made exhaust system by a quality exhaust company like “Jason’s Performance Exhaust” per se.
Donnie – If you’re duplicating a tuned system, than by all means proceed. I recommend tuned systems mostly because the DIY systems I see come up short more often than not.
If you were to take the specs from a tuned system and replicate that on your own (and by replicate I mean mandrel bends, exact same tubing length, exact same muffler specs), you’d get the benefits of a system from Magnaflow (or whomever)…but I suspect the costs would be higher, as mandrel bending isn’t cheap.
As for why tuning is so important, little things like mandrel bends, tube lengths, and muffler size make a difference. The tuning process used by most of the muffler companies involves experienced engineers and tuners who have forgotten more about exhaust systems than I’ll ever know. They also use dyno testing to verify that their systems produce more power without sacrificing bottom-end.
I have a 2008 tundra 5.7L V8 and was considering a “bundle”… a k&n intake, long tube headers (doug thorley or obx) probably an off road y pipe and corsa sport exhaust… will this yield a good hp gains without screwing the powerband too much???
fiveseventundra – Long tube headers tend to rob low-end power, and on the Tundra in particular I’d recommend against aftermarket headers. I happen to know that Toyota spent a good deal of money on the stock manifold design, and I’d argue that the stock Tundra manifolds are as good as anything you’ll find on the aftermarket..unless (and only unless) you’re trying to build a drag truck.
The long tube headers tend to ruin scavenging at lower RPMs, which hurts low end performance. On the flip side, the longer tubes are great for power at high RPMs…if you’re building a drag racer (and or if you’re supercharged), the loss of low-end power is probably worth the increase in top-end. But if you’re just driving the truck on the street, I’d skip the headers.
However, a K&N plus a Corsa should give you a few more HP and a very nice sound.
Sounds legit, but let me be more clear on my exhaust choice. Im going with a single, not duals, in hopes that it will keep the backpressure close to what it used to be. I was hoping the k&n would balance things out , need to bring in a little more air since the exhaust will be less restricted. Im not looking to make it a drag truck, although I DO want the drag truck sound at WOT which is why im itching to replace EVERYTHING in front of and behind the motor *evil grin* as long as the low end tq loss isnt too drastic, I think im willing to make that sacrifice for an insane and unique sounding truck. Im going with corsa because its tuned. I want it to be loud AND sound good, not just a bunch of noise like the locals with their glasspacked silverados haha.. thanks for your opinion
fiveseventundra – Sound and headers have almost nothing to do with one another. I wouldn’t touch the factory manifolds on a 5.7L Tundra – Toyota specifically tuned them for your engine. Unless you’re trying to squeek another 10th or two in the quarter, I’d leave them alone.
Just get a good, loud muffler and it will be hard for anyone to tell the difference.
Also what is your opinion on an off road y pipe (catless) I know its probably illegal lol but like I said I really want an insane sound! Do you think losing the cats will free up a few extra horses, maybe give back the torque I lost? Or would it be entirely too free flowing? Well its not like I do any towing with the truck, so I dont really NEED all the tq. Heck.. the tundras have plenty of tq to spare anyways lol
You might check out electric exhaust cutouts from quick time performance (or similar). At the push of a button, you can go from street legal to straight pipes. You won’t get any tickets (probably), but you’ll have that extra sound whenever you want it.
Hi,
Thanks a lot to your comments, really helped me analyze what is wrong with my car;
I have a 2009 2.7L dodge charger.
I recently installed a flowmaster super44 muffler & changed the pipes 3″ in to 2.5″ dual out.
I thought this will not only give my car a sporty sound but will also increase HP and improve mileage (I wasn’t so concerned with HP though)
But after installing, I have rather seen a reduced mileage, I was thinking it was probably because of the restrictive air intake for the new dual exhaust, but your comments regarding the pipe make sense to me.
Can you please suggest, how should can I get the efficiency back on it, will changing to K&N air intake help?
Will it sound even better?
Looking forward to hear from you!
Thanks in advance!
P – I’d replace the pipes and muffler with something sized more similarly to the stock system. Until you do that, you’re going to experience a loss of power at lower RPMs.
A 2.7L might make 200hp…that application calls for one 2.25″ pipe or two 1.75″ pipes. See this page for details: https://www.exhaustvideos.com/faq/how-to-calculate-muffler-size-pipe-diameter/
hello, im from india. i drive a hyundai i20 (2009) petrol. i removed my silencer box and continued a thicker pipe ahead for a good rally car sound. It does sound amazing, i dont know if it is good for my car or if it is hampering it by anyway. Please reply asap. Any kind of suggestions are most welcome and required.
Raghav – Your modifications shouldn’t harm your engine in any way.
I have a 2002 Pontiac Bonneville SE with the single output exhaust. Is it a good idea to put a dual exhaust on my car, considering that the 3800 V6 only makes 200 hp?
Luke – If it was me, I would just leave it a single exit and upgrade the muffler. That way you have money you can save up for this turbo kit:
http://www.3800performance.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=CT-TURBO-KIT
Obviously, you’ll need to get a dual exhaust after you mount the turbo, but until then a single exit will be fine.
i have a 2004 f150 5.4 with a single pipe exhaust system. I want a soft rumble but i dont want to spend alot of money. can i just switch out my stock muffler for an aftermarket one? and how would it affect my engine?
Austin – If you’re just looking for a little rumble, swapping out your muffler is a good idea. It will have no negative effect on your engine, and you may even find that your truck gets a little more fuel economy or feels a little faster.
Hey Jason, I have a big question and I’m hoping you could answer.
I have an 06 colorado 5cyl truck. Completely stock. My cat needs to be changed but I’ve decided to deal away with the cat and just get headers from JTR. While I’m replacing the waders might as well do the whole system right? Well I’ve been looking for weeks and asking opinions from friends but they are all on the magnaflow band wagon cuz mommy and daddy buy them everything. Well not me. I want to know with the JTR headers can cut out the resonator replace it with another aftermarket and still use the stock pipe and weld it all together and do the same with the muffler or should I just bite the bullet and get a cat back system?
I eagerly await your response. A.
Aaron – My opinion is always that a tuned exhaust system is best. However, if you replace the exhaust manifold with a header, and you need to replace the cat anyways, it might make sense to just do a whole new setup.
Still, if you remove the cats, you’re going to need to do something with the oxygen sensors, as they’re expecting a catalytic converter. You’ll need to “trick” them with simulators or an engine tuner.
Additionally, if you re-sell the vehicle, if you move to a city or state that has emissions testing, etc., you may have to replace the cat.
My advice is to stick with the factory manifold and replace the cat. You won’t really see a lot of performance with a header on a 5-cylinder truck, and there’s a risk that you’ll lose some performance or fuel economy because the engine computer is expecting a catalytic converter.
G’day Jason,
I have a 1967 Mustang with a stock 289 with a factory style single exhaust. I am going to change to a dual exhaust from the manifolds back. Would you recommend a 2 or 2 1/4 inch system and what would be better, an ‘X’ or ‘H’ routing setup. I am after a nice low rumble at idle and low-down to a quieter note while cruising?
Dennis – A stock 289 probably doesn’t make much more than 200hp (maybe 250hp?), so I’d be hesitant to put a dual exhaust on it. However, if you want one, I’d go with 2″ tubing (no larger, unless your 289 actually has quite a few mods).
This chart will help you: https://www.exhaustvideos.com/faq/how-to-calculate-muffler-size-pipe-diameter/
As for x-pipe or h-pipe, I vote neither. The only reason to put a cross pipe on an exhaust system is to try and balance exhaust flow and cancel out some higher frequencies. V8s are already balanced in terms of flow, and a good set of mufflers will accomplish the frequency cancellation…I suppose you could add a cross pipe to deepen the rumble, but I’ve never heard much difference when a good set of mufflers are used.
hey Jason,
I have a 245 Horse, 3.6L V6 2007 Chevrolet Lumina (AKA Holden Commodore in AUS). i was thinking to replace the stock setup of dual exhaust manifold- single outlet to a MagnaFlow Dual outlet. what do you suggest.?
Rodney – If you’re wondering if you have a good setup, I don’t now. It sounds like a custom install, and a custom install is only as good as the parts and person installing it. MagnaFlow makdes good stuff, but the rest needs to be mandrel bent, laid out like stock, not overly large, etc. to be useful.
hey Jason,
I finally did a custom exhaust replacement to a dual Magnaflow outlet from a stock single. Off course the note has changed but not a loudy goudy but instead is a descent grumbling and noticeable while cranking, idling and at certain RPM. which is probably what i needed.
I’ve noticed a slight benefit on fuel consumption as well. however there’s been an in- cabin ratting noise right in the gear knob area somewhere which is only audible while drive. between 1.5 – 2.5 RPM. there’s no metal to metal contact underneath and it has been checked properly.
got some help.!
Rodney – First, cool! Glad you like it.
Second, vibrations in the gear shift could be a result of the resonance in the new exhaust, but my guess is that they’re a result of something else.
Frankly, I don’t know of too many stick shifts that don’t have a bit of a vibration, but if it’s harsh enough that it’s making noise, something in the linkage (or bushings) may be worn out enough to cause a problem.
You can also check motor mounts.
Jason,
Do you have any idea why Ford designed in a flattened area about 18″ long(top & bottom) on the drivers side only exhaust pipe , on both v8 and v6 Mustangs? It’s on my brand new ’14 and searching forums apparently on others, as well.
Tom – My best guess is that this is just part of the manufacturing process. There’s probably some cost advantage in making a short section of the exhaust tubing flat because it’s easier to ship, easier to handle during assembly, etc.
It could also be that this section has some sort of acoustic effect (reducing drone, perhaps?), but that seems like the least likely reason.
My money is that this section of flattened tubing exists because of some shipping or assembly concern…it’s probably easier to install some other part of the car if the exhaust tube is flattened a touch in that section (like some robot can’t quite get it right without a little more room or something).
Good question for sure – please comment if you ever get the real answer! 🙂
It’s going to be finish of mine day, however before ending I am reading this great post to increase my knowledge.
Hi jason
I have a 07 5.3L z71 that I have set up not with streight pipes. Goes from manafolds to 2 cats into Y then some thing I dont know what it is, continues in 1 pipe then Y’s off into 2 again streight out the back with tips. Ive lost power gradually and gas milage has been sucking it up from the start. Was looking to put a muffler back on but dont know what would be best bc I LOVE the sound it makes deep and loud, any recomendations of improving this? And ive brought to dealer and everything checks out ok. I was looking at 1 chamber mufflers by like gibson, borla, etc. I do not want flows had it hated it JUNK. Any help would be greatful! Thanks.
I got a 2014 jeep grand cherokee laredo e with a single exhaust can I make it a dual exhaust… I spoke to the dealer he said it is possible putting SRT exhaust system on it
I have a 1989 Acura Legend that runs fine in the beginning of the day but loses power as it gets driven the rest of the day. water and steam ends up coming out of the reservoir. once it cool for a couple hours its fine. when it loses power first gear goes real slow second gear is a little faster third gear is even faster, but he doesn’t want to go past 65.
can anyone give me a answer
Tweedyt – Doesn’t sound like an exhaust problem to me.
I recently installed a pair of BBK 1 5/8″ headers, 2 1/2″ hpipe, Flowmaster Super 44 mufflers, 2 1/2″ tails and 3″ tips on my 1988 Ford Thunderbird 5.0 (standard output, stock engine). The sound of the car improved but I am getting an “airy” sound from the tails, and not always a smooth rumble sound that I was looking for. Could this be a leak in the pipes or connections somewhere ? No gaskets were used on the header/hpipe connection, nor at the h pipe/ muffler connections. Everything else was welded.
I also notice sometimes when I hit the gas hard the RPM will go up but come right back down, as if the transmission didn’t shift correctly, or I didn’t get enough power. Could my exhaust be too big for the stock 5.0 ?
Gary – The size sounds pretty big for a 5.0L, but I don’t think that will explain the RPM issue. That seems like it might be transmission related.
As for the airy sound, I know what you’re talking about, and I’m reasonably certain that it’s a consequence of the tubing size.
I just bought a 2014 Z71 Silverado and my engine changes from V8 to V4 when driving. Was looking to add a dual exhaust system but not sure what to change to if anything. Don’t want it to sound crappy or lose mileage. What is your best advice.
Robert – My first tip is to check your oil, especially once your truck gets 20-30k miles on it. The GM AFM systems can sometimes consume an extraordinary amount of oil after the engine has broken in.
As for the exhaust, I’d suggest either a) replacing the muffler (for some better sound) or b) going with a tuned dual cat-back exhaust setup.
The deactivation system isn’t something you need to design the exhaust around, as it’s only active when the load on the engine is very light. If/when that happens, your exhaust will be adequate regardless of configuration.
I have a 2012 Subaru Legacy 2.5i Limited its got a 4 cylinder but i think its a big 4.I wanted to split with a Y pipe for a dual exhaust. My question is Should I and any recommendations on what to get and how much it’ll run me
John – There are some cat-back systems for turbo Subarus you could probably make work, but it will almost certainly reduce performance. Too much exhaust pipe = reduced power, at least at low RPMs.
Hi there; thanks for the great article. I have a 2012 Optima with a single exhaust system. I upgraded to the Borla dual exhaust but this slightly affected the car power plus the sound is too loud for me. So would it help if i closed (cut and weld) the Y pipe in a way that the air only exists from one muffler without affecting the air flow?
Thanks for your help.
Rabih – Capping off one of the muffler exits might address the power, but it won’t address the sound. A new muffler is the way to go.
Jon,
I have a 2008 lincoln mkz, 6 cylinder. Am in the process of adding a performance chip, cold air induction, and up-grading the exhaust to SS full exhaust with dual cats. My question is will this provide the additional mileage and performance I am looking for (true dual,exhaust, with 2 cats).my desire is to enhance the system, not recreate/change for the sake of change, but to get the best mileage and performance. Thanks for your input.
Regis – Provided you go with parts that are specifically designed for your vehicle, than yes it will probably boost HP and/or fuel economy.
I have a 91 grand marquis with the 5.0 it has the Y I want to take it off and get a good set of straight pipes, so my question is how cheap can I get a good set? And what diameter would create a faster response in acceleration?
Edan – Your question remained unanswered because a) I don’t know how cheap you can get straight pipes. You might be able to get them free if you’re resourceful enough – perhaps by getting an old exhaust of craiglist or something and b) there’s a chart on this page https://www.exhaustvideos.com/faq/how-to-calculate-muffler-size-pipe-diameter/ that will tell you about ideal size.
That page is cited numerous times. Please read before you post.
i have a 2003 ford falcon 6cyl and want to know if i only run the o2 sensor through one half of the twin setup will it effect engine running and performance.
Chris – I’m not quite sure if I understand your question, but if you’re asking about using an O2 sensor on just one side of your exhaust system rather than both sides, I’d say that it could have an impact. The sensors have different sensitivity levels, and if your sensors are designed for a single exhaust pipe, they might not be able to read half the pipe.
If you’re asking about replacing 2 oxygen sensors with just 1, than the answer is that it will absolutely effect performance (probably quite badly).
Hello Jason, I have a 1993 Jeep HO 4.0 swapped into a 1984 CJ7. Ive read the exhaust system is very restrictive. I was looking into getting DT Tri-Ys and saw the collector was 2 1/2 and stock is 2 1/4. I already have a 2 1/4 inch exhaust system on it (pretty beat though) I was wondering if i did get a new exhaust, should it be 2 1/4 or 2 1/2 to match the Tri-Ys?
Tyler – The best advice here is to get a recommendation from the header/collector manufacturer. They’ll be able to tell you not only tubing size, but also recommended muffler setup (they usually test with a couple of brands in mind).
Hi, I just bought a 2001 audi a4 and was wonder what would be the best way to add power to my car, exhaust wise? Any thoughts would be appreciated thanks.
Corey – I’d be careful with these older Audis, as they often need pricey repairs (they’re notorious for steering racks, but there’s a lot of other stuff that goes wrong). You might want to save your money.
However, the best place to start is with an engine tuner, then intake, then exhaust. You can often buy a package that addresses all three.
I have a 1986 rx7 with a Race beat headers and Race beat muffler but what can i do to make it sound loud and nice not rice?
John – Unfortunately, it’s impossible to get big block sound from a small displacement motor, especially one that uses a complete different combustion cycle.
However, if I were you I’d be proud of the sound. That’s a cool car in my book. 🙂
I’m in search of a pair of Trush 33000 side-pipes.
I have a 2012 V6 Camaro wanting to make it sound more ‘throatie’. I have been told it would be best on a V6 to have the straight flowmaster put on it OR replace the 2 stock mufflers I have and keep my stock tips.. what do you suggest?
Check out axle back kits for Corsa – they’ve figured out how to make V6s sound awesome.
Straight pipes aren’t really a way to make V6s sound “deep” – they’ll make it loud and raspy.
I have a 2003 dodge Dakota with the v6. It has 2 manifold exits of the engine, so I can run a true dual exhaust, just wanna know what size you recommend and what muffler, if I should go more free flowing? Oval or short and round, or delete the res and small cat and small muffler with very flowing, then do straight pipe, wanna make it sound a bit louder but a deep growl, not worried about power as long as I don’t lose it, planning on doing other mods after this
Hey Jason I have an interesting question an it has puzzled me for months but what is the difference in performance and sound when it comes to curled headers(like those on a Ferrari 458) VS. TriY/4-1 straight tube headers I’ve been doing research and can’t seem to find the answer to this
Kevin – Likely no difference. I’m looking at pics of 458 headers online and they’re probably curved because of the engine’s placement in the middle of the frame. Exhaust gases that close to the cylinder head are hot and moving fast. It’s unlikely that making them take a sharp turn has any impact, provided the interior surface of the headers is smooth and the curve isn’t too sharp.
Header design is mostly about the length of the tubes for each cylinder, how they’re merged together, and sizing. If you look at a radical design like Mazda’s new SkyActiv engine headers, you see what I’m talking about. Here’s a picture of their headers:
http://images.thetruthaboutcars.com/2011/08/SKYACTIV-2-410×550.jpg
and a good article to review: http://www.enginebuildermag.com/2013/11/the-skys-the-limit-looking-into-mazdas-skyactiv-engine-technology/
Mazda’s header design is intended to minimize “leakage” of exhaust gases into neighboring cylinders, but it likely constrains bottom-end performance, as the gases can start to “back-up” when the tubes are long and the RPMs are low. This is why long-tube headers are often associated with a loss of low-end torque, BTW, and why most street vehicles shouldn’t have them.
Thanks for the info Jason it helped me clear up some things I had doubts about but I also noticed that 180 degree headers makes a significant change in sound to any motor and thats the header design I’m leaning more towards just for sound purposes I don’t care for power would that be a good route for me to go in terms of exhaust tone/pitch?
Hello Jason,
I have 2007 Acura TL-TYPE S and it has 3.5L V6
I made custom exhaust sys. My car has 3 cat and i took off the 3rd one also the resonators taken off.
It has stock mufflers on it. Runs great. But the sound is great until some RPM but when i put full throttle, the sound has rice burn and that bothers me. Is this issue because of stock mufflers? If so, i am planing to swap stock mufflers with V8 corvette mufflers. Do you think sound would be better? Also does it increase or lower the performance?
Thank you.
Maze – The problem is that you can’t make a V6 sound like a V8. It’s going to be raspier. Embrace it. No one thinks a GT-R sounds “rice”, or whatever.
Hey maze just put flowmaster super 10 Series on it its a very unique exotic rumble you won’t regret it YouTube it and you’ll see what I mean don’t waste money on corvette parts because you will regret it lol and the only reason your car has that rice sound is because that’s how most honda motors sound with stock internals it’s the way honda made them from the factory but changing your pipe diameter and all parts air related ex. Headers intake manifold and muffler tunes the car with a better exhaust note
In 2010 my hubby got me an 06′ dodge charger. Rode great for about a 1yr. Then the check engin light pops on, cat. Converters. I bought two new aftermarket ones to replace them. A week later engine light comes back on and its the same code. One guy said its cause the converters are aftermarket no biggie and another says its a sensor error. I got the sensor error check but no change. the light started going on and off over the years but its driving me up the wall wondering what the real problem is. Any ideas or help would be appreciated.
Its the Daytona R/T if that makes any difference.
Erin – Could be O2 sensors, could be something in the EGR system, could be fuel quality. My internet diagnostic machine is broken, so you’ll have to take it to your local auto mechanic. 🙂
AT LAST !!!!!
Someone who understands that those who say “you have to put a 3″ pipe on it” are not correct at all !… I have recently dropped back from a 3″ straight pipe to a factory 2.5-2.75″ system (Mitsubishi Evo) and with a subtle mod of my rear silencer the car is superb to drive in every way. boosts quicker, pulls and pulls. EGTS are more stable for the same given AF ratio and the spark plugs last longer. The idle is perfect with a perfect smooth tone and the car feels like there is power throughout the rev range – not just at the top end ! Power is effortless too… Just light presses of the pedal give big results. I remapped the engine to 0.81 lambda WOT for each exhaust I fitted and all I can say is 2.5″ is better to drive at all rpm’s period ! 3″ sucks IMO!
Word. Love your car btw.
Thanks for liking my car 🙂
Hello i have a 2006 chrysler 300c hemi and I’ve been wanting to put a dual exhaust system. I’m looking for a nice deep sound . I don’t want it to sound like a truck , i was thinking to get the flow masters super 40s should i keep the resonator big box in the middle ? I don’t want to change the stock pipes or should i? Also I don’t want to loose back pressure or horse power ..Help please
Juan I have the same car I have a Gibson cat back with magnaflow high flow cats and bbk headers it sounds absolutely amazing!!
The exhaust system did run me $2800 here in Alberta canada but I gained 24 rwhp with a tune
I have a 2013 GMC sierra 1500, I want to go from single exhaust to dual exhaust. I want to keep factory muffler and just add a why. What do you think about this? Is it a good idea? I just want the look not the loud sound.
Jermaine – I know of some people who have hung disconnected pipe to give their vehicle a dual look without actually spending the money for duals. I don’t think I’d go that route, but I don’t see anything wrong with it.
However, if you want a functioning dual, you can pay a muffler shop to add a Y to your existing pipe. It won’t help you performance wise, but it won’t hurt either.
I have a 2003 ford focus it has a power problem and it has a racing muffler from when i got it and also stock muffler my question is can that be the problem it Manley has problems with hills
Hi I have a 2005 nissan xterra it has the stock exhaust system with the y pipe I want to put on a single inlet dual exit cherry bomb extreme exhaust, does anyone have any tips on how to go about doing this?
And yes I know the sound I love it friend has it on his truck.
Hey Erik, in the past I had a 2012 Xterra and a 2014 Xterra as well as a 05 Frontier which uses the same engine, frame etc. as the Xterra. On my 05 Frontier I replaced the muffler with in single inlet single outlet 40 serious Flowmaster muffler. The wound was very beefy and almost v8 like below 2500rpm and on start up. Since it was a chambered muffler I didn’t really notice an loss in power or gain and I also kept the stock y-pipe. On the 2012 Xterra I replaced the muffler with a Magnaflow branded muffler which uses packing instead of chambers like the Flowmaster. I kept the stock y-pipe in this configuration as well. I noticed some small gains in the low end but more so in the higher RPM’s. The sound was nothing like the Flowmaster on my 05 Frontier though, it was v8ish at idle but more like a beefy 350Z anywhere above that. On my 13 Xterra I actually got a two into one style Magnaflow muffler. Again the sound was very 350Zish, I noticed a really nice gain in the mid range and high rpm range but a loss in the low range although this wasn’t a problem since it was a 6spd manual with a 3.69 axle ratio as opposed to the Frontier and prior 12 Xterra with were 5spd automatics with a 3.36 axle ratio. I also did the stock air box mod which helped with flow and upped the gas mileage a bit and dropped in a K&N high flow filter. You can find out how to do the air box mod by doing a Google search or going to the Titan Talk forum. I had a local Meineke shop do the work for both Xterra’s. The muffler swap was MUCH cheaper then the exhaust Y-pipe delete for sure. I hope this helps. I now have a 2015 Toyota Tundra with the 5.7L i-Force V8 and I’m in the process of figuring out what I want to do for exhaust. I may have questions forthcoming Jason, we’ll see. I actually asked a long winded question about my 2013 Xterra a few years back on here lol.
I have a 2014 camry.. 2.5l 4 cylinder engine
Would like to make the car sound more agressive… If I put a y-pipe and did a dual straight pipe with the same pipe diameter would it effect power or back pressure at all?
If that doesn’t work can I do a dual setup with mufflers?
Thanks,
Ed
Eddie – It’s a 4-cylinder Camry, so understand that you’re not going to get a V8 sound.
Also, it’s going to be hard to find a cat-back exhaust system for a 2015 Camry (at least for a few more months), so you might consider waiting a while.
However, if it was me I’d probably just get a universal muffler from Borla, make sure it wasn’t too aggressive in terms of sound (look for something that’s designed for street use), and then enjoy turning a few heads.
Additionally, you can wait to see what TRD offers too.
Hi
I have 2014 camry rz 2.5lt 4 cylinder.They says its sport edition. Looks bit sporty but dosent works orsound like that.So i want to improve little bit performance and make sporty sound. Can you suggest me on this one.
Thx
Bipen – Sorry. No suggestions. It’s a new car, so there aren’t a lot of after-market systems available yet.
I am a disabled vet an cant afford much and the more people an muffler shops i talk to..the more confused i am getting. I HAD a 2007 dodge ram 1500 an HAD a flowmaster 40 on the single pipe an sounded GREAT….very low noise in cab…i would roll windows down under bridges to hear it…it had GREAT low deep sound idling. WELL…I finally got a 2013 GMC SIERRA 1500 quad cab… 5.3 V8 an now the confusion. I was told if i bought another flowmaster 40 i would go insane from the interior Drone inside cab. My truck goes into 4 cyl mode when there is no pull on engine an goes back to v8 when i step on it or needs power etc…. i was told use VARIOUS sized Magnaflows…and…i was told i may not get that killer sound i had on the ram….an now i was told i may mess up computers or performance IF I change JUST the muffler….erghhh. i cant afford to tune truck computer if i screw up. HELP…… i want that deep growling sound idling an driving while being able to talk normally inside cab…… what muffler do i get or do i need to leave it stock. Sorry but THANKS sooo much.
Ed – I’m not sure why you’re getting so much bogus info, but the short version is this: If you’re looking for better sound, there are lots of mufflers that will give your 5.3L a better exhaust note. It will not sound exactly like your old Ram 1500 (for a variety of reasons), but it will sound just fine. There’s no reason to worry about damage caused by changing out a muffler (that’s nonsense). You *could* do damage if you did a full exhaust system replacement, removing everything from the cylinder heads back, but that would be silly. If you just replace the muffler – or even go cat back – nothing will be harmed.
In terms of which muffler or exhaust to buy, I can tell you that the more “extreme” the muffler, the more likely drone will be. Off-road or race only mufflers are not for you, at least if you’re concerned about drone. You can go with a Flowmaster 70 or Super 50 series and the risk of drone is very minimal. If you go with a 40 like you had before, you may (or may not) find drone to be a problem…different people have different perspectives on what acceptable levels of background noise are at highway speeds. I can’t help you here, other than to tell you that all mufflers have some level of drone.
Also, keep in mind that drone can be attenuated by a) turning down your exhaust tips, b) moving the muffler(s) away from the cab, and c) installing a rubber mat in the cab and/or sound deadening under your interior carpet.
But my best advice: pick a muffler that you think will probably work based on what you find watching videos, forums, etc. You’ll spend $200 (or so, maybe less). Drive it for 1,000 to 2,000 miles. If it sucks, you can pull it off and try something quieter (or vice versa). They’re relatively cheap, and the install costs are low. You can probably sell the old muffler on Craigslist for $50.
So I have a 68 Charger with a 452cid (440 bored) currently making about 450hp and 500ish lb ft. I currently have a dual 3 inch from header collector back. I’m planning on a cam swap, some good ol’ port and polish and a Holly DP 800 or 850CFM. If I cut my exhaust (behind axle) should I consider a smaller exhaust? If I leave it full length should I still shorten it? And what muffler gives the best sound through out power band. I heard Borla is best but I have a flowmaster and love the deep sound.
Tyler – I don’t think you want to go any smaller. I realize that our quick and easy sizing chart suggests a dual 2.5″ setup (see https://www.exhaustvideos.com/faq/how-to-calculate-muffler-size-pipe-diameter/) but the rules aren’t as strict for older cars, especially big blocks. They put out a lot of exhaust and don’t really have problems with producing low-end torque when you oversize the exhaust a bit.
What’ I’m not wild about is cutting the pipes after the axle. Older vehicles are famous for poorly sealing off the passenger compartment from the exhaust, and cutting things off under the car is only going to amplify that problem. Carbon monoxide is potentially deadly, and once the exhaust gases make it that far, an extra 4 feet of tubing makes no difference.
As for best sound, you got me. Everyone has a different opinion on that. My opinion is that you’re fortunate enough to own an American classic, and any exhaust will sound awesome. Cool car. 🙂
I have a 2002 GMC Sierra 2500hd I’m looking to replace both converters and a full exhaust with flowmaster parts. First question is would you know if they come with all O2 sensor ports…second I’m getting inlet and outlet sizes for the converters at 2.25 and the muffler that it shows has two 3″ inlets will I be able to receive pipes that will fit those dimensions in between the converters and the muffler or at least purchase something to make that work…it’s what the flowmaster site gives me for my specific truck
Mark,
First, I think a dual 3″ system is probably massive overkill for a 2002 GMC 2500HD. The factory size of 2.25″ per pipe is perfect. If you increase it, you might see your low-end torque decrease.
Second, you don’t want to replace the factory catalytic converters if you can help it because:
a) it’s expensive to do so, assuming you buy new after-market cats
b) if you remove the cats completely, you’ll have problems with the vehicle running properly. You’ll have to buy oxygen sensor simulators, then tune things to work.
c) you could have a hell of a time reselling the thing if the buyer realizes you’ve omitted the cats, and you could be legally liable to replace them after the sale is completed (depending on your state’s laws)
Contrary to popular belief, catalytic converters don’t really hinder performance. If it was me and I were you, I’d like for a nice cat-back exhaust in the 2.25 or 2.5″ size and call it good. If you don’t want to invest in a cat-back, than just buy a muffler.
I have a 1988 Mazda pickup truck and I want to give it some more sound… I looked up the specs and it says (Don’t laugh at this) my little truck with its four cylinder has 85hp and 118 ft-lb of tourqe… I want to know if I straight piped it when it turns 30 years old if it would sound right… I need some help with this… I’m not sure how many cats are on it… But I do kw tht it only has one muffler… Thnks
Wyatt – Love those old Mazda pickups. If it was me, I wouldn’t mess around with a straight pipe. It’s going to sound broken, not “sporty.” 4-bangers are best muffled (at least to most ears…personally, I like the sound they make just fine, but I like rally racing…).
I have a 2015 chrysler 300 5.7 would it benefit a lot from a cai and upgraded exhaust? Or it the stock set up pretty good already?
Ozzy – My suggestions:
1. Get a tuner, an upgraded muffler, and *maybe* a cold air intake (I’d probably just get the K&N air cleaner element)
2. Save your money for a supercharger.
5.7Ls are plenty fast out of the box and well optimized by FCA. But you can buy superchargers for them that run $5-10k installed, and those are officially bad ass. You’ll be running with the big dogs if you add one.
Jason, On the 2015 chrysler 300 5.7 ozzy asked about benefiting from a cai and exhaust.
I was rather surprised at your response.
1. Tuner would be a good performance enhancement but very likely take the risk of losing warranty coverage on any possibly related problem. What the heck is the “K&N air cleaner element”? Are you saying get the K&N type CAI and referring to the air filter?
2. Supercharger? Sure, but that’s a big step that must be thought through.
I would suggest he get on one or more forums that discuss this engine and whether a CAI without a tune actually help performance.
I have a K&N CAI on my 5.7L charger but not sure it helped performance any. did help sound a little. As will after market mufflers. Not sure about perfomance though. I’ve been concentrating on my new Mustang improvements.
Good luck Ozzy
Tom, first, please know that tuners absolutely *do not* impact warranty. This is a myth perpetuated by lazy, ignorant dealership service personnel. There’s a federal law called the Magnusson-Moss Warranty Act that makes it nearly impossible for a manufacturer to invalidate a warranty. Working in dealerships for years, I can count on one hand the times when we were able to invalidate warranty coverage. Even then, arbitration often didn’t go our way.
Second, I personally don’t see much benefit in replacing the factory air box or exhaust system on a 2015 with a 5.7L. Dodge has milked every last HP out of those, and unless you’re making some major changes, they’re fine as-is…except for the engine tuner. The factory settings are getting increasingly strict to meet emissions and fuel economy rules. If you’re willing to trade some gas mileage for horsepower, a little electronic box is a great performance add-on.
Now, if you added a tuner and an intake, I could see swapping out headers and installing a new system…but that’s sort of expensive, and the ROI on that investment is poor. The $2000+ you’d spend on that upgrade would be better spent towards a supercharger.
Hence, my suggestion: get a tuner, get an air filter and a muffler, and save your pennies for a REAL upgrade.
Very good blog post. I certainly love this website.
Keep it up!
Hello, I have a 2001 Ford Taurus SES w/ the 3.0L Duratec DOHC. It comes with 200hp and does have dual exhaust manifolds that merge into a single exhaust and muffler. I read some previous threads and still couldn’t find an answer so I was hoping you could help me answer mine. I want to dual exhaust and was looking at the Borla S type mufflers. Now, I believe the stock set up is 2 inches in the front out both manifolds and cats and then merge into a third cat that’s 2.5 inches, resonator, and then out the back. What would be the best setup that would add any additional performance, if any. I was thinking keeping the 2 in setup up front replacing the two front cats with MagnaFlow cats, then an X or H pipe leading to the third cat, replacing that one with a MagnaFlow as well, and keeping the 2 in diameter through a MagnaFlow resonator and mufflers all the way back. Sorry if that sounds confusing, but would that work okay or would I lose performance?
i have a 2005 mustang, base model 6v. i was looking at putting a MBRP-cat-back exhaust system for a mustang GT could that possibly hurt anything or cause me too lose power? the only modification in an aftermarket cold air intake system but the previous owner did not tune the injectors so im having a dragging effect when i stop it to the floor. any advise on better performance?
i currently have a single exhaust but the exhaust i was looking at (gt based) is a dual exhaust.
jose – A GT exhaust on a V6 is a formula for losing power.
What would you recommend for better performance considering how much electronics are in a 05 mustang?
I have a 2014 Silverado 1500 and I just installed a new flowmaster exhaust but now I feel that it jumps in gears every now and then or switches gears before it should and there is a little thump you can feel throughout the truck. I can tell that power has increased and I love it but I feel like it’s messing something else up that I have no clue about. The only thing that isn’t stock is the exhaust. Hopefully you can help me figure this out. Thanks.
Aaron – It could be that your transmission is shifting more harshly as a result of more aggressive driving by you or someone else that has access to the vehicle. Modern transmissions “learn,” and if you spend a lot of time at WOT, they often interpret that as a signal to shift more aggressively.
Of course, it could be something else completely unrelated to your driving pattern…hard to know. If the transmission hasn’t set any trouble codes, you can try resetting the ECU by disconnecting your vehicle battery for 30 minutes. Just understand this could make the problem worse, as the vehicle could “re-learn” and shift even harder.
My guess is that you’re putting your foot in it a little more than you used to, and it’s shifting accordingly. I wouldn’t worry about it.
i just replaced exhaust on my 1988chevy silverado half ton I put muffler onand it was a match 3 inch going in but 2and half coming out when the old one was 3 in and 3 out i got muffler and new tailpipe from advance auto is the outlet being smaller going to hurt my horsepower
keith – probably not
I have a 1987 d150. we put in a summit blue print 408 engine with headers 2.5 collector 2.5 pipe to a 2 in one out xlearator muffler. The tail pipe dropped to 2.25. The carburetor shop tell me that its to restrictive and they can’t adjust the carburetor. Any thought on that would be helpful. The carburetor is a holey 650. max Hp at 5500rpm is 400
Shaun – Using the horsepower chart here – https://www.exhaustvideos.com/faq/how-to-calculate-muffler-size-pipe-diameter/ – your exhaust system seems to be sized correctly (or at least close enough). Are you using shorty headers or long-tube headers? Long-tube headers can be restrictive, especially if you’re tuning for max torque off the line. That could be a problem.
It could also be that your 2-in-1 muffler is a choke point, depending on how close it is to the collectors. The exhaust gases need to cool a bit before they hit the muffler, especially if the muffler is taking two streams and putting them into one pipe.
My advice, however, is to get a 2nd opinion: Carb tuning is hard. It’s easier to say “your exhaust is too restrictive” than it is to say “we couldn’t get any more power out of it.” It might not be an exhaust problem at all.
Hi jason! I have a 2007 v6 Mustang and I am doing a custom straight pipe. Everything fits well and is going good, all I need to do is buy an exhaust tip. Because I love sound, I just want to wack the biggest one I can find on there but I’m concerned that’s not the smartest thing. Just wanted to get another persons thought on what size I should get.
Thanks 🙂
Jude – I’m not wild about a straight pipe, particularly on a V6. First of all, it’s probably going to sound harsh. Second, straight pipes tend to rob low-end torque on naturally aspirated engines (especially smaller ones). Three, you’re all but certain to get a ticket from local law enforcement for a noise ordinance violation.
As for the tube sizing, I’d look at the post I linked to in my reply to Shaun above. Tip sizing doesn’t matter.
I have a 525HP engine I am building a custom exhaust for (header fabrication is almost complete). The headers run a 1.875″ primary and the collector uses a venturi that necks down to about 2.75″ and expands to 3.375″. I am planning to add an X-pipe after that. I ordered one in that claimed a inlet/outlet sizes of 3″. Measuring the inlets/outlets though I really only see about 2.65″.
Now, normally I’d think that was too small to support 525HP, but I know that an X-pipe adds a scavenging effect so a 2.65″ pipe acts bigger than it is given that it pulls exhaust from the other side with each pulse.
So my question is, should a 2.65″ X-pipe be large enough or should I go bigger?
Thanks.
Darrin – It sounds small to me. The best way to know is to test it. But, if you can’t test something, try to scale up a modern OEM manifold design from a similar engine (same layout, similar valvetrain, etc.). It won’t be perfect, but at least you’ll be able to reference the proportions.
Ended up getting an X-pipe that is 3″ OD inlet/outlet which is about 2.875″ ID. That should do it. The most restrictive part is now the neck down of the venturi which goes to 2.75″ but even that is good past 525.
Note that what I am tying to do (if there is room for it) is build my own muffler using the X-pipe. I’m encasing it in stainless and using some very high temp ceramic matting I have for the dampening. I put about 300 3/16″ holes into the stainless X-pipe and will cover it with 16ga stainless about an inch off of each side larger than the X-pipe itself. I only have about 18″ to work with from the end of the collectors to where the exhaust exits the car. That includes two 90° bends (one inward from the collectors, and one back out toward where the exhaust will exit feeding into the X-pipe). It’s a rear engine car. Everything is really, really tight.
Thanks Jason.
Howdy Folks,
I have a 1980 L37+W72, HEI, Trans Am with a N/A 301, auto, A/C, 4 bbl, original exhaust manifolds with no cats
Am looking to replace the original y-pipe, transverse muffler exhaust system with an X-pipe, dual mufflers.
So my question is, what diameter pipe system and mufflers would best work for this lowly 301 150hp non-turbo car?
Any input would be greatly appreciated. Enjoy eyoue website. Thank you
The Most Amazing Kratom is DAVESKratom!!!
I got a 99 dakota rt cc i want to put 2 super 10 on it. They will have 1 2.5 in and 2 2.25 out and i am taking it out the side. It will be true duel. The factory pipe is 2.5 so from the headers i am running 2.5 to the muffler and after the muffler 2.25. It will be about 3 to4 feet of 2.25 pipe. Will that be good or ?
Fred – Unless your Dakota has a 450hp engine, I’d say a true dual system of that size is a bad idea. You’re going to lose a lot of low end torque.
Did you read this? https://www.exhaustvideos.com/faq/how-to-calculate-muffler-size-pipe-diameter/#easy
If you look at that chart and find your Dakota’s horsepower, you’ll probably see that a single 2.5″ pipe is plenty if you’ve got a V6. If you’ve got the V8, a pair of 2″ pipes is the way to go.
I have a 1980 Trans Am, 4.9l, auto, non-turbo, 4 barrel carb, air pump, no cats, original manifolds(no headers). Have original Y-pipe to single in/dual out muffler in front of tank.
Need system to improve exhaust scavenging and mufflers that produce a mellow sound when taking off but sound drones out when at cruising speed.
Need help in determining the correct exhaust system(pipe size and mufflers) for this 301 engine.
Can you help-me?
Johnny – I don’t have any specific recommendations beyond this: Buy a complete system if you can. Honestly, it’s going to be very hard to find something for that engine.
You should definitely check out http://www.301garage.com/
You should also consider an engine swap. From what I’m seeing, 301 parts are hard to find.
Good luck!
Jason, Thank you. I do plan to go with a complete new exhaust. system. Was looking for pipe size. Will probably have a custom built 2″ x-pipe system. 2″ is to keep with the original pipe size.
From what I read on this AWESOME forum, 2.5″ is way to big for this lowly 180hp cruiser. No engine swap since it only has 44k original miles and plan to keep it numbers matching.
I have looked into the 301 garage but never did get any input from fellow 301oner’s.
You are right, hard to find 301 parts since the 301 parts are not interchangeable with any other engine.
Thank you for your input.
What problems will I face adding an n1 cat back to my maxima gle 2002
John – Hopefully no problem, at least if it’s designed for your vehicle.
Jason., I have a 2004 Silverado 5.3 4×4 with 133,000 miles, ordered a new muffler and went ahead and cut the stock off, probably a mistake, on my previous trucks once I get a new muffler installed the engine light comes on for a little bit then goes off or gets cleared.. This truck cleared itself and today it was cold and I was going up a hill to work and when I accelerated at about 2500-2700 rpms the light came back on, could it be because of no muffler? Has a k&n cold air intake also
Aaron – Could be the muffler, but seems unlikely. K&N, the cold weather, or something else…no way to diagnose them over the internet. 🙂
Would it be bad to put glasspacks on a 1994 Crown Vic v8 overhead cam what would you recommend putting on that to make it sound loud and still keep my performance the way it is?
Harvey – Not bad, especially if you’re just looking for a little boost in performance and a better sound.
If you’re looking for more than that, you might consider saving your money and putting it towards a set of headers and a cat-back system to go with it. There’s a lot of “stuff” out there for a 4.6L V8…
I have a 98 gmc with a 5.7 vortec enginge. I installed duals with one in and two outlets. Am I losing power by doing it that way or would I been better off with a performance muffler with one in and one outlet?
Jeff – No idea. Tube size (diameter) is more important than muffler configuration. Our article here will help you determine if your tubing is too big.
https://www.exhaustvideos.com/faq/how-to-calculate-muffler-size-pipe-diameter/#easy
Silly question regarding a chevy spark. Yes I know it’s a 1.2 4 cylinder. I think it has an 1inch or a 1.5inch piping. I want something to make the car a tad louder without causing problems and/or robbing back pressure. So the question is what would work great for the spark? I hate quiet cars.
Dakota – I’d suggest a muffler replacement. You’ll probably have to buy something universal, but that’s the best component to change if you don’t want to risk upsetting the performance of the system. 🙂
Jason-that’s what I figured. I did remove the muffler and it sounds ok but it’s what I called a “smooth exhaust note” it’s because the resonator is still on. Now should I remove the resonator and leave the muffler on? Or just remove the muffler and the resonator and swap it out for a cherry bomb turbo? Thank you for your help!
Dakota – I’m not a big fan of removing the muffler, but if you’ve already done so and are happy with the result, I’d say leave it be.
But my ideal setup would be a performance muffler designed to fit your specific setup (assuming a tuned cat-back isn’t available).
I just want something that’ll keep the back pressure normal whilst making some noise.
Hey guys…I need a bit of help on this one. My ’06 6.0l 2500hd needs a Muffler replacement and I was given a Cherry Bomb turbo from a friend. Only problem is, I have a 3″ going into a 2.25″ Muffler intake and then out of a 2.25″ into a 3.5″ tailpipe (3″ reduced then adapter into 3.5″) will this mess up the pressure or performance of the truck if I leave the stock pipe and use this Muffler with reducers?
The cherry bomb is a 2.25″ in/out
Thanks
Cory – Shouldn’t make much difference.
Hey I have a Honda fit 1.3l if I add a after market exhaust Or a muffler will the consumption of fuel increase
Sooo, I bought a 2016 GMC Canyon and decided to custimize a bit. I put a dual exhaust on ( cuz I liked how it looked) but I hate it! It’s sooo loud, it drowns out my tunes plus my truck feels sluggish. Should I just get rid if it? Or is there something I can add to quiet it down and improve the pick-up. Any chance maybe it’s not installed properly?
Melanie – Adding downward pointing tips to the ends of the exhaust is probably the easiest thing to do, and I would try that first. By pointing the exhaust downwards, the sound can “bounce” off the ground and lose some power.
Sometimes, you can move the exhaust pipe outlets and decrease the sound. The truck box can act like a speaker for the exhaust – by moving the outlet pipes outwards (maybe to side exits that point down), you can sometimes decrease the noise effect.
Moving the muffler is another option. Sometimes, moving it forward or rearward will address the sound issues.
But usually, the solution is a less aggressive muffler. Replacing the muffler(s) you have with something that isn’t quite as loud is easy enough, and it’s cheaper than just about anything on my list (except for downward pointing tips).
Good luck.
I have a 2016 Tacoma. 3.5L. V6. I had a regular 40 series flowmaster installed with single side pipe… and love how it sounds. Granted not as deep as a V8, but way better sound than stock.
My question is, can i have another pipe added to this same 40 series out the other side? Or would i need another exhaust system? I’m not looking for performance increase with the 2nd pipe, just like the looks of pipes on both sides.
If possible could the sound or performance decrease? If not, how would you recommend i have it done?
Thanks in advance for your time!
Richard – Adding a second pipe to you existing muffler is only a good idea if the muffler already has a second outlet.
Either way, buying a single to double muffler and adding an exhaust pipe to the other side of the truck probably won’t hurt or help performance. However, I’d say skip it, because truck enthusiasts know that most dual exhaust setups are more for “show” than “go”.
Hallo Jason, i have a 2013 Camaro SS, 432 HP, 6162 engine diplacement. I want a better V8 Sound, deeper and a bit loder would be ok.. And good torque in low and middle motor speed. Next time i want buy a catback exhaust sxtem with a H-Pype.
What for a pipe diameter is the best for me?
And is it right, that a H-Pipe make a better V8-Sound?
Should have the diameter of the H-Pipe the same diameter then the pipe diameter from the exhaust system? Or it is better for torque when i take the same little middlerack between the pipes, how it is by the original Camaro SS H-Pipe ? What is better for V8-Sound ?
Sorry for my bad english.
best regards from germany
thanks Rainer
Hallo Jason, i have a 2013 Camaro SS, 432 HP, 6162 engine diplacement. I want a better V8 Sound, deeper and a bit loder would be ok.. And good torque in low and middle motor speed. Next time i want buy a catback exhaust sxtem with a H-Pype.
What for a pipe diameter is the best for me?
And is it right, that a H-Pipe make a better V8-Sound?
Should have the diameter of the H-Pipe the same diameter then the pipe diameter from the exhaust system? Or it is better for torque when i take the same little middlerack between the pipes, how it is by the original Camaro SS H-Pipe ? What is better for V8-Sound ?
Sorry for my bad english.
best regards from germany
thanks Rainer
Rainer – I would suggest buying a tuned cat-back system for your Camaro. Don’t try to size it yourself – the companies that sell tuned cat-back exhaust kits have already done all the proper engineering and design.
Will it be bad to add a duo flow master exhaust to my 2008 mustang v6?
Arturo – Maybe.
Hi. I was wondering. I bought a 2007 VortexMax Silverado. Looks like it has a 3″ exhaust up to the muffler but after it looks like it goes to 2.5″ out the passenger side behind the tire. Should I change it back and will it hurt the performance of the motor being like that.
Guy – I wouldn’t worry about it. Tube sizing doesn’t matter nearly as much after the muffler.
Volvo mufflers for my car (2000 V70R, B5244T2 engine) are no longer available. Snabb.us has the dual muffler set up, but not sure of piping matches that of intermediate pipe.
It’s a performance muffler.
Will it (possibly) cause a cat code? Now, due to leaks, I hope. Now, from time to time, I get a 0422 code.
Need a muffler…….
putting a muffler on a 2.4l 4 cylinder toyota 2009 camry se?
lankym – It can be done, but you’ll probably need to choose a universal muffler for that particular application.
Just picked up a 2008 Chrysler Aspen Limited 5.7 hemi. Had a muffler shop put in a magnaflow. It was way too loud. The shop changed out the size of the magnaflow and it’s still loud in the cabin. I’ve got the original resonator in still. Also, on the freeway, my vehicle is experiencing rough riding around 70mph, and just below that, it seems like the exhaust is spitting at me. Also, feels like it lags and drives worse than it did with everything stock. Any advice? Should I go back to stock? Need it quiet again and need it to run better.
Mike – First, any drivability issues you’re experiencing probably aren’t related to your muffler. Mufflers basically have no effect on your vehicle, other than to make a few more HP and a bit more torque across the RPM range. You’re describing problems that should probably be checked out by a mechanic.
Second, if changing the size of the muffler had no effect, the issue is probably the location of the muffler and/or the lack of sound deadening. The simple fact is, louder mufflers are louder. A lot of people want a powerful engine sound, but don’t like the fact that their engine makes a lot more noise on the highway. Unfortunately, these things go hand in hand. My suggestions:
– Get a quieter muffler. FlowMaster’s ‘hushpower’ brand might be a good choice. The OEM muffler isn’t great, but it’s definitely not loud…you could always go back to that.
– Pull up the carpet on the floor and put some sound absorbing material underneath. A lot of stereo shops will do this for you for a reasonable fee, but it’s relatively straightforward to do yourself if you have the time and ambition (it’s a lot of work).
– Move the muffler further towards the rear of the vehicle. This can reduce the amount of drone you hear in the cabin, only it’s not a great solution for SUVs, so it’s not my favorite solution.
– Add some downward pointing tips to the end of your exhaust pipes. It won’t make a big difference, but it can help a bit.
Chrysler did the bare minimum in terms of sound absorption, and truthfully that is the root of your problem. Back in 2008, Chrysler was running on fumes and just about out of money. They scrimped on everything.
I just bought a 1980 Camaro Z28. It is a beater car for sure and I wanted to do something with the exhaust that has never been done before. I wanted to put a Y pipe out of the catalytic converter, and have 2 super 10 series flowmasters coming off of it. Each muffler would have 2 exhaust ports so the back of the Camaro would end up having 4 tailpipes. I want a sound like no other car on the road, but would this be overkill on the emission system and cause major problems, or would it be a stable thing to install, given I use the right materials.
Jack – The number of exhaust pipes doesn’t really impact tone or volume, at least not to my ear. I’m sure that these things impact the type of sound, but in my experience the muffler is really the key component.
In terms of your setup, the most important stretch of the exhaust system is between the head and the catalytic converter (or muffler, if your vehicle doesn’t have a cat). You want to be very deliberate about tubing you use in that stretch. But once you exit the cat, the configuration isn’t as important.
My only suggestions would be to:
1. Put some tubing behind the cat and before your ‘Y’. If you split the exhaust as soon as it exits the cat, you’re going to change the dynamics of the system. If you wait a foot or two, it will be better.
2. Use a more standard configuration and put your money towards something like EFI or new heads. That will make you more power. 🙂
I was wondering what’s the best way to go on my 2004 f250 gas 5.4 engine. I was either thinking duals or super 44 series flowmasters
Angel – A cat-back system is best. If you don’t want to do that, than replacing the stock muffler with an after-market system will get you good sound and a little more power, and it won’t cost much.
What I wouldn’t do is build your own custom dual exhaust system…they don’t usually add power unless they’re tuned.
Jason – I am planning to replace my camry 2011 model V4 engine single exhaust with a V6 model dual exhaust system. Is it convenient or will affect the engine performance and fuel efficiency? waiting for your valuable comments.
Renjith – I wouldn’t put a V6 exhaust on a 4-cylinder (NOTE: You have an I4, not a V4). That’s too much exhaust. My suggestion is just to find a good muffler for the existing system, and/or save your pennies for a new vehicle.
Jason – you are saying to fix a dummy muffler in the other side? Actually i am planning to replace the pipe after catalytic converter flange with the same size pipe and resonator. Only difference is instead of one muffler two muffler will be in the exhaust system. Is it ok? or what will be the side effects? I am spending only 50$ for this modification.
Renjith – No – I’m saying keep the factory exhaust system and replace the factory muffler only. 😉
But how can I add one more muffler in the other (left) side. My vehicle is a left hand GCC model.
Renjith – Your 4-cylinder Camry doesn’t need two mufflers! 🙂
One muffler is plenty. Adding another one will only hamper performance.
Hi Jason, I am driving an Audi A4 B8 1.8T.
I changed my exhaust to 2 mufflers, however i also changed my downpipe to a catless 3 inch with stage 2 tuning. Is this still hampering my performance? Thanks.
Wesley – I don’t think you have a performance issue, only I question the need for a dual exhaust (I’m assuming that’s what’s meant by “2 mufflers”).
I need help!!
I want to know the diameter of my 2007 Subaru impresa 1.5L R
I am planning of buying a new muffler that have 2″ inlet 3.5 Outler
I meant that i want to replace my stock muffler with 2 inch inlet muffler
On 2007 subaru impreza 1.5l
loudtuber – I’d measure the tubing yourself, as there’s a chance that it doesn’t match the stock specs. Also, a 3.5″ muffler outlet is borderline retarded for a 1.5L 4-cylinder (see the chart).
Will a Flowmaster Force II Axle-Back Exhaust that is for a 2011-2014 Ford Mustang fit a 2011 Infiniti G25?
Missie – Prolly not.
I have a 2007 VW Passat 2.0 turbo. I’m replacing the exhaust manifold. Is it ok to use “after-market” parts for this job? Saves about $400. Or should I stick with mfg parts for this job and pay the extra?
Sam – Yes. After-market exhaust parts are just fine, especially on a 10 year old car.
I have a Wrangler jeep YJ series..its with a straight six 4.0 ltr engine.i want to go with a double exhaust in it ,kinda want that American V 8 engine sound..how do i do it and would it be harmful to the engine if i get it done..
Imran – You can’t really get a V8 sound out of a V6. You can replace the muffler and get some more noise out of it – and you might like that – but generally speaking it doesn’t positively effect performance, fuel economy, etc.
My advice: Put the money towards some other accessories first. There’s lots of cool stuff out there for Jeeps that will make it more fun to own.
Looking to install a new exhaust on my 2008 Subaru Impreza base model. What kind of exhaust would be my best choice if I’m looking for a low growl, and how will I know if the exhaust will fit my car before I purchase it?
Guy – YouTube is a good place to try and find an exhaust. However, I don’t think you’ll find a system that makes a 4-cylinder have a low pitch without being loud. If you’re not up for loud, you might skip it.
Hi, I have a 1994 Dodge Grand Caravan 3.8 V6 and I am replacing the catalytic converter pipe, muffler and tailpipe. The Muffler is a Walker and has a 2.25″ inlet and a 2″ outlet.
Would my engine run more efficient using a Walker same dimension but with a 2.25 inlet and outlet and a 2.25 tailpipe with no resonator?
The resonator has already been removed because it plugged up.
Michael – It might. More likely, you wouldn’t notice any difference.
I have a 2005 Ford Explorer with a 4.0L engine that am researching all the parameters of converting it to a dual exhaust for performance reasons. What would that entail and what increases would I obtain?
Buddy – I wouldn’t recommend a dual exhaust unless you really want the look. Dual exhausts really only make sense on V8s.
If you want one, check out dual exhaust options for the Ford Ranger or a same era Mustang. While the Mustang had the 3.8L, it’s pretty similar in terms of specs.
Finally, V6 dual exhausts sound best when you have a crosspipe.
So I bought a new 2016 Ram 1500 SXT 5.7L hemi, 395hp (they say), I have been eyeballing the mopar cat back exhaust the dealership sells and have been wondering if it’s even neccessary, i like more power but it also costs over 2k to get the cat back installed, My stock SXT came with only one exit exhaust pipe, not the dual pipes you may see on a sport model. I Think the stock pipe size is maybe 2.5″ and I have not checked, eitherway I want more airflow and a bit more of a rumble so with that in mind, I am thinking replace the stock muffler with a expensive performance muffler and possibly do the resonator delete. While keeping the standard size piping that the truck came with. Anyone have experience with this, maybe tips for me? I’d like it to be less expensive but it is what it is, I don’t want to end up sounding the same and.or comprimising the trucks power..
Rye – The stock exhaust is perfectly tuned for low-end torque on most new trucks. The automakers pay a lot of attention to exhaust system design these days, far more than they did even 15 years ago.
Mostly, if you’re adding an exhaust to a new truck, it’s for sound. The only trucks that really need an upgraded exhaust will have a lot of other upgrades too (intake, tuner, maybe some sort of forced induction). For regular day to day use, the stock exhaust is great.
If you want the sound, replacing the OEM muffler with a good aftermarket brand (like Borla) is fine. I wouldn’t touch the tube diameter, however, as it’s good enough the way it is.
Also, please note: When you replace the factory muffler with an aftermarket muffler, you get drone. Drone is a problem on just about every aftermarket truck muffler and exhaust system. The OEM cat back system won’t have much a drone problem, but it won’t be very loud either.
Replace muffler only, and retain factory pipes and resonators to avoid undesired drone.
Honestly, single outlet, dual outlet, really makes no difference in power on these new Rams; the factory has done a good job right sizing the exhaust to fit engines requirements, AND likely has stainless pipes already.
Pick an exhaust note and swap it out yourself; this makes a great driveway project, if you don’t mind getting your hands dirty.
I recently did a Carven stainless muffler swap; while the exhaust is LOUD, the swap time was about 30 mins (My truck has dual tips through the bumper.)
A couple hundred bucks should get your project done.
I was wondering if I should upgrade to a 3″ downpipe and 2.5 back after on my stock Volvo V70 turbo.its currently got 2+1/4 exhaust ( stock).I do plan on doing intake and other small mods for now.am I better off staying stock?
Chris – I’d hit up Frank at EuroSportTuning.com. Volvos are kind of his specialty.
However, my opinion is that you need to size the downpipe based on the downpipe manufacturer’s recommendation, and then invest in a tuned cat-back (or, if you’re eliminating the cat, then tuned downpipe back) exhaust.
Often times the downpipe manufacturer can recommend a good exhaust to pair up.
Hey man I’ve got a question that I can find a answer to on the Internet nor have I seen anyone do this to there car
– I have a 2.5L rb25det for my r32 skyline which is a straight inline 6 motor
– I Wana make a dual 2.5 exhaust
– the design I’ve come up with starts from the turbo downpipe
Split’s into 2 2.5 inch, down to a 3 inch flexy instead of using two 2.5 flexies (I just thought why not merge both 2.5 together to a single 3 inch flexy) which from that 3 inch flexy goes to a 3inch resonator, from that resonator Split’s back to dual 2.5s, which travels all the way to a single 3inch muffler, merging the du all 2.5 to fit the 3inch muffler which then Split’s into a dual 3 inch tips
– they say a dual 2.5 makes around the same flow as a 3.5 inch single
– so in theory the exhaust will be flowing like I have a 3.5 but will have a higher velocity because the narrower pipes
– and will having a 3 inch single components on the dual 2.5s (flexy,resonator, muffler) effect any part of my design??
– just Wana know if it’s a good or bad idea as I’ve seen no other exhaust designed like this cheers
zion – I’d start by saying that sizes don’t matter quiet as much on cars with forced induction, as they don’t typically have problems with exhaust gas velocity (at least not at WOT).
However, what you’ve described sounds both oversized and overly complex. My advice is to go with a tuned kit – pretty sure you can get a 3″ system for your engine that will pair nicely with more PSI (I assume you’ve bumped that up with some tuner).
Hey I have a 2012 Chrysler 300 v6 3.6 vvt and I’m just going to take the muffler off and swap it for a flowmaster will that work. I just want a little roar nothing to loud or quite and I don’t want it to sound like a Honda racer help please Thanks
Gregory – That’s a good plan. However, it’s going to be louder than you might like if you go with a ‘performance’ muffler. You might see what’s available in a ‘street’ muffler – they tend to be a bit quieter.
Hi Jason,
In NA applications replacing a stock baffled muffler with a straight through absorptive one (or even a length of straight pipe) has caused some to lose low end torque….so would a remedy be to reduce the pipe CSA at the place where the baffled muffler used to be if using pipe only or slightly smaller diameter (say 1/8-1/4″) straight through muffler?
Thanks in advance J
Danny – If you’re trying to replace a muffler with a straight piece of pipe, you probably want to go bigger diameter rather than smaller. That’s because the key metric is exhaust velocity. If you remove a muffler, you raise the velocity of the exhaust gases. This discourages scavenging at low RPMs on most vehicles. If you make the diameter smaller, you’ll increase velocity even more (and make things worse).
You’re better off going with an oversized piece of tubing. The gas will expand in a larger tube and slow down a bit as a result. However, in terms of sizing, I have no idea…it’s very much vehicle dependent.
Hi Jason, I have a 97 ford F150 Lariat with the 4.6 engine in it. It has an exhaust leak which triggered me to start looking into to performance improvements. Right now the exhaust exits before the rear tire on the passenger side. Would you recommend going to a dual exhaust (or Y and 2 exit points before each of the back tires). Just looking for suggestions. I have already heeded your advice NOT to increase the pipe size.
Thanks for any input
Paul
Paul – There’s quite a bit of evidence that shows a single exit exhaust is best for trucks. While it limits top-end horsepower, it does a lot for low-end torque.
If you’re looking for power while towing or hauling, my advice would be to upgrade the muffler and leave the rest of the factory system alone. If you’re look to race, my advice is to swap out the 4.6L for a 5.4L! 😉
…or a big block crate engine. There is no replacement for cubic inches, like more cubic inches. =D
I recently bought a 1996 Camaro base for my teenager. We are looking at mods and exhaust is near top of the list. We added pace setter headers and it sounds ok with the stock exhaust but I think it could be better.
Would a crossover dual setup be overkill here? Despite being the v6 3800 motor, it has a good low rumble and I think true duals would finish out that sound really well. I am concerned about maintaining the right back pressure however.
Don – I always like putting a cross pipe on a V6 – helps a lot with the unbalanced sound and gives it a better tone. It’s not going to sound like a V8, but it will sound good.
Oh, and it doesn’t really impact backpressure.
I have a 97 ZJ Jeep Grand Cherokee LTD 4.0L. I built a dual exhaust for it. The OEM single system has 2 sensors on it. Do I require more oxygen sensors on my ZJ Jeep when upgrading to a dual system or do I just stick with the 2 factory sensors? If I dont put more sensors on the dual exhaust what are the issues I would be facing? Will this cause my car to run rough and lose lots of power and even ping? Any advise would help greatly.
Al – If you build a cat-back exhaust, you have no concerns. If you replace the cats, you can probably find a programmer that will correct the issue. You can also look for oxygen sensor “simulators” to fool the ECU into thinking the oxygen sensors are working, and then just get rid of them. However, if you go this route, you might have trouble getting the vehicle to pass emissions (depending on local regs).
Would adding a flow master cat and muffler make my 1996 RWD ford ranger splash any louder/faster?
Byron – Louder? Yes. Faster? Not really, only it will definitely stretch its’ legs better at higher RPMs.
Since we’re talking about a 20 year old truck, how about an engine swap instead? 5.0L from an Explorer can just drop in…
Want to put a flowmaster super 44 series muffler on a 2018 colorado V6, 2.5″ pipes, should I keep the rear rsonator box? Or can I lose it? Any one done this yet? Any trouble codes etc:? I want the deep growl of a flowmaster w/o sounding ricey. Comments please.
JP – Anytime you put aggressive mufflers on a V6, you risk getting a brashy sound. You might check into what Chevy offers, as they probably have something that sounds throaty.
But, if that doesn’t work, I definitely wouldn’t remove the resonators until you hear how they sound.
I drive a 2003 Silverado 1500. I recently did a muffler delete and welded a glass pack into its place. I like the ruble but I want to go louder. If I put cat back dual exhaust with an X pipe and no muffler, would it hurt my trucks performance? Also how much do you think this would cost to do at a muffler shop?
Joseph – Removing the muffler probably won’t hurt your truck, but I don’t think it will help much either. However, it *will* mean you risk getting a ticket for having a vehicle without a muffler (noise ordinance violation, for example).
A muffler shop will build you a cat-back exhaust without a muffler for $500-1000, depending on how much they charge for labor. Check with your local racing forum or Reddit thread to find out where everyone goes for cheap exhausts. 🙂
Do you have any experience with Evan Fischer direct fit catalytic converter sets. They are inexpensive and I am in the market for my 97 Ford F-150. Are they any good?
thanks
Paul – No experience. Generally speaking, you get what you pay for. But, with a 97, I don’t know that I’d spend a fortune on it. 😉
I have two questions (two different cars).
First off, I have a 1987 Mazda 323 (1.5 E5 engine), with a 46mm ID straight-through exhaust. I’ve been wondering for some time, what will the effect be if I go dual (it does have a 4-2 manifold stock)? This is referring to both sound and performance.
Second, I also have a 2.8 dual VANOS Z3, purchased with a butchered exhaust. I have recently put a stock single VANOS rear silencer on, and now it seems to run better (before it was a single in, dual out box with one outlet straight-through). Any idea why? I also noticed (it’s currently running with a cone filter, ghetto rigged onto the stock plumbing with an extra intake boot to get the right size end), that when I step on it the exhaust doesn’t sound like a straight 6 should (reminds me of when the car ran on 3 cylinders). But it’s not pulling like you would expect from limp mode. What do you make of that?
Johann – For the 323, a dual is probably massive overkill. I’d guess you’ll see a reduction in torque below 4,000 RPM. Sound will mostly be influenced by the muffler(s) you choose. Generally speaking, a dual is overkill for anything smaller than an 8 cylinder (at least if it’s naturally aspirated). OEMs put duals on new 4 cylinders, but they’re small and they’re always behind the mufffler so they don’t have a big impact.
For the Z3, the silencer shouldn’t make any substantial difference. It could be that it’s making the exhaust flow better, but it could also be that the car is learning/adapting to a new driver. As for the rigged intake, it sounds like a performance killer. I’d find a stock airbox to put on it, or better yet invest in an air intake kit. And limp mode? No idea why it’s in limp mode. Time to pull codes or visit your local shop! 🙂
What is the best combination exhaust and brand, size/diameter pipes…headers and duals with cat delete for a 3.8 liter 2007 Mitzy Eclipse GT 6-speed manual.
Im not looking for sound…I want the best performance….all the way through the powercurve.
Can you recommend header brand and diameter, pipe diameter, cold air intake and muffler type /brand diameter?
This/these are the only mods I intend on doing.
Car is currently bone stock and rated at approx 273 hp.
3.8 V-6
Thank you so much for any guidence.
Sincerely
B
Brad – The best one is probably a cat back kit that’s tuned and dynoed for your car. I don’t have any specific brand recommendations, only I like a lot of what Cobb Tuning is doing…
Hey,
I was just wondering what your thoughts are on this sound I’m experiencing with my Jeep? I have a Jeep Commander 5.7 Hemi 2006 with a Magnaflow 49709 cat (newly installed) and a magnaflow 18″ oval muffler (installed a year or so ago) with stock resonator and pipes between the mufflers and cat. I have new sparks and coil packs and have very recently cleaned the throttle body.
I have a sound issue from the exhaust, it sounds like a flutter/ chug at the end of the rev range (need to listen carefully). It does not give a smooth rev the whole way through it. Really annoyingly, I cannot remember if I was experiencing this sound before the cat was added or not. Have you got any idea as to what might be causing it? Could it be the stock rear resonator as it appears big and bulky, reducing flow and sound. Thanks for any help!
https://youtu.be/y1ELsi7ZDT0
Philip – Noises like this are notoriously difficult to diagnose. However, it sounds like something is shaking a bit – are all the stock hangers attached and/or is everything secure?
Hi Jason, thanks for the reply. Everything appears to be secure. To me it sounds like something is choking it, it’s almost like a stutter. Would you have any other thoughts? Thanks
should i perform a CAT delete on a 2003 mazda speed 3
Nathan – I wouldn’t. It won’t make much of a difference in terms of performance, and it will make it hard to resell later (not to mention registration/emissions testing).
Hi I’m an automotive apprentice and I’ve been playing around with my truck trying some of the less expensive ways to get a bit more power one of which was to remove my resonator and replace it along with the pipe from the y pipe back to the muffle with 3 inch pipe from the stock 2.75/2.5 inch pipe. I also put in a magnaflow muffler 3inch in and out center to center to give it a nice rumble. It’s a 3.5 turbo v6 f150 and from my understanding, after the turbo you want to have as little backpressure as possible. So would my setup encourage more horsepower, or have I gone too big For that pipe? Fyi the stock pipe coming off the stock muffler was 3inch.
Phil – When you’ve got a turbocharged or supercharged engine, exhaust sizing doesn’t matter as much (aside from the downpipe). Fundamentally, you want to avoid having exhaust gases dump out into a large and relatively empty exhaust tube, because that causes them to cool, cooling causes them to slow way down, and then they start to act like a blockage.
However, when you’ve got a turbo or supercharger forcing air into the engine, the concern about blockage is minimal. So, you typically size those systems to be big. The stock tubing is big, and going bigger probably won’t make much of a difference unless you’re trying to increase your trap speed in the quarter mile. I doubt you’d see any benefit in daily driving, and only a mild increase in horsepower.
Having said that, you could see a little drop in performance when the turbo isn’t spinning. I’d guess your highway fuel economy goes down a bit as a result of your change, with only a minor bump in HP. Still, I don’t think it’s bad.
I have a 4-cylinder 2009 Mercedes C250 1.8 petrol. Looking to get the C350 style dual tip exhaust. Been offered just the rear end or a catback system. It had 204bhp from teh factory but had it remapped to approx 240bhp. Would getting the dual tips be advisable?
Yazza007 – I wouldn’t get duals on any 4-cylinder with less than 300hp. It’s just not worth messing with.
I have a 2016 Silverado 2500HD 6.0. I want optimize its towing ability. I purchased a Gibson 65652 cat back exhaust. It has 3.5″ pipe to the muffler and dual 3″ outlets. According to your chart this system is to large, but the system is supposed to be a tuned system. So what is your opinion? I also plan on getting a custom tune for the motor. Also, have a methanol/water injection system to
help with the octane. Any and all info will be appreciated!
Thanks,
Dennis
Dennis – Gibson is trying to sell exhausts, and consumers demand oversized exhausts because they don’t understand how they work.
Having said this, Gibson is probably doing something with the muffler to compensate for the oversized tubing…if they’re selling it, it’s probably OK.
EDIT: Forgot to respond to water methanol question: I think it’s great if you can afford it. There’s no downside. However, I’m skeptical you can get this on a 6.0L naturally aspirated engine.
Also, what about a set of shorty headers, 1.75″ inlet and 2.25″ or would the gain not be worth the trouble?
Thanks again,
Dennis
Dennis – Shorty headers are good for a low-end torque boost, but it’s not going to make a difference beyond your 0-60 time. Your quarter mile time will be about the same.
Also, on newer vehicles, headers have less and less value…the automakers are getting pretty good at exhaust manifold design. I’m not sure I’d recommend changing it.
I’m back (previous comment was April 2018), this time with another idea.
I’m going to have another stock Z3 silencer soon (this one still has the flap, the current one doesn’t have it anymore). I also have a spare resonator. So now I’m wondering, is there anything to keep in mind if I decide to go for a true dual pipe, quad tip exhaust? This is a double VANOS 2.8, so double pipe most of the way, into a single resonator, and single in, dual out silencer. The 3.0 came with a full dual pipe, dual tip exhaust.
Do I have to equalise the two banks? Keep in mind this is a straight 6, so it’s firing bank 1, bank 2, bank 1, bank 2, etc. And will it matter if the second silencer is not right up at the bumper, but instead moved a bit with longer tailpipes? I’m asking because on a normal Z3 the battery tray is where the silencer would be on a Z3M (the look that I want to go for). So I’m thinking of putting that silencer a bit closer to the engine (pipe length wise), and then extending the tailpipes to go to a bumper cutout. This will mainly be for appearance (show car), but I am “that guy” when it comes to requiring quad tip to be a true dual exhaust. And when it comes to sound, I don’t want it to have too much bass (so if I have to equalise, I’m guessing X-pipe?). however, the car does get driven at least once a week, so I don’t want to sacrifice much in terms of drivability or consumption.
I just remembered another point of interest, the Z3’s been decatted by a previous owner (I’m in South Africa, so no emissions testing, plus at the times not all South African Z3 had cats anyway (the owners manual also distinguishes between the fuel requirements of a catted version vs catless).
Johann – In terms of equalization and the lower frequencies, x-pipes/cross pipes usually help filter out the higher frequencies. So, if you’re looking for something that sounds deep, you want a cross pipe.
In terms of exhaust changes you make at the rear bumper, they almost don’t matter at all. There are some slight benefits to have equal length exhausts all the way from the head to the exit, but they’re really minimal. Additionally, once you get past the cats and muffler, the exhaust gases have cooled so much that an extra few inches of exhaust pipe – or a really big exhaust tip – doesn’t impact flow much at all.
I’d say your mods sound inconsequential in terms of performance, so go for it. 🙂
Strange. I had it as that a cross pipe allows a higher note, while an H pipe being lower. Or do you mean that a cross pipe is lower than running separate pipes that don’t intersect anywhere?
Anyway, I have the second silencer now, but looking at it I get the feeling they’re not the same. So that might mean not doing the quad tip mod.
I’ll have a look at the part numbers when I get a chance though. But I noticed the one with the valve has a “cover” on the back end, which the current one doesn’t have.
X-pipes and h-pipes serve the same purpose – you’re trying to a) balance the exhaust pulses from the engine and b) attenuate a multiple of a base frequency.
By balancing the pulses, you often attenuate higher frequencies. They get muddled when they are slightly out of sync, and the h or x pipe basically mixes the pulses together in a way that muddles them.
There are also some frequency attenuation benefits from an h or x pipe. It can act as a resonator, basically, eliminating some of the frequencies we associate with drone using common tubing sizes and lengths.
But it’s all sort of academic anyways – most people find that an x-pipe or h-pipe mellows out the exhaust and makes it sound a little deeper.
Can i change my dual tip muffler to a single tip without eorrying about later problems?
Dave – Sure. Generally speaking, by the time the exhaust gases make it all the way to the end of the system, changes have minimal impact. You can replace two tips with one or with four and it won’t make hardly any difference.
The only exception is when the exhaust system is very short, like on a motorcycle, a rear engine vehicle, or an exhaust that has outlets close to the engine (like a race vehicle). Then, you want to choose something that doesn’t slow down the gases.
Hey there,
I have a 2005 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.7 V8 and replaced the stock muffler with a Magnaflow 12586 muffler, wich is only a little smaller than the stock muffler. After half a year of driving I now changed to a Flowmaster 50 delta flow muffler…but I think the car has less power now. Is that possible? The Flowmaster is much smaller than the Magnaflow…….Is this a problem???
Bye
Stef – It’s certainly possible that your new muffler reduced your vehicle’s power. However, if you bought a muffler that’s supposed to fit your Jeep, than I’d say the issue probably isn’t related.
Muffler size is important, but the real key is flow rate. If your new muffler flows the same amount of exhaust gas, it will work about the same as the muffler you replaced.
Thanks for your reply
The Flowmaster is abt 30% smaller and uses a reactive design, the Magnaflow uses the absorbtion method. It‘s the wrong muffler, I guess 🙁
Stef – If it’s designed/spec’d for your vehicle, that it’s probably fine. The actual size of the muffler will be smaller depending on how it’s designed.
I had my factory exhaust cut after the cats on a 1998 chevy suburban with a factory vortec. The factory configurations had two pipes coming from the stock manifolds (one for each side) and into two cats. Then after, they would come into a Y and into one muffler. Now its two straight pipes into 2 2 chamber flowmasters 40 series. Now I have a feeling that there is not enough back pressure and the car runs weird. It gets this weird jerk, in high gear (OD) and from 1st to 2nd it shifts really hard.
Dennis – the exhaust mods wouldn’t cause this kind of problem. Get your transmission checked out.
My 2019 Challenger v6 has 2.25 inch exhaust on it. The muffler I want to install to make it more mean sounding can only come in size 2.50 at the smallest. Is that too much of a diameter variation to cause problems? Or will it not be a problem? Thanks for your time
Trevor – It probably won’t cause problems, but usually when you add a big chamber to your exhaust system, you lose some low-end power. You should search for a cat-back system designed for your vehicle. They usually sound better than a simpler muffler upgrade, and typically add horsepower at the top end.
Are the catalytic converters on a 1997 Ford f150 8 cylinder compatible with a 2001 Ford van 6 cylinder
After I originally commented I seem to have clicked the -Notify me when new comments are added- checkbox and now every time a
comment is added I recieve four emails with the exact same comment.
Perhaps there is a way you can remove me from that service?
Many thanks!
Jason, i’ve got a 2010 JK Wrangler 2 door with an auto trans 3.8 V-6, Ripp supercharged with 13 lbs boost, long tube headers, high output coil-pac and I noticed it was faster with the stock exhaust system. I had put a cat-back Borla split rear with the same size as stock pipes (2.5 in) after the Ripp headers. Do you recommend a drop-in venturi strategically placed somewhere in the pipe? if so, where? (not a lot of bottom-end power, but a lot of top-end for sure) Jerry
I was thinking of putting headers, dual exhaust with twin cats on my 2017 F250 6.2 liter. Will this cause my truck to fail the Denver Colorado emissions test?
I was thinking of putting headers, dual exhaust with twin cats on my 2017 F250 6.2 liter. Will this cause my truck to fail the Denver Colorado emissions test? BTW the system is by stainless works
does any one know if a 2015-2020 mustang exhaust would work for a 2007 chrysler?
Engine Masters proved this to be wrong for the most part. a dual exhaust that is 2.5″ or 3″ didn’t have a bit of difference on a 350hp engine.
backpressure is the false narrative for people that don’t understand engines correctly. going too big will kill power but 1/4″ is the max otherwise you will kill power is also false. tuning is needed to maximize the effort and without, then you will not gain a thing. the rule is with modern engines is tuning and exhaust goes hand in hand. a turbo Volvo 4 cylinder that was discussed here would actually smoke a BMW with a bigger exhaust or bigger exhaust and tuning because Volvo turbos their cars and turbos breath better with bigger exhausts, look at the Mazdaspeed 3 with a 3″ exhaust over the stock one.
Very good explanation of exhaust systems, pro’s and con’s
hello i have a ’14 jk 4 door 6 cylinder, automatic, it had a stock exhaust 1 pipe, i just put a dual exhaust system, will this be bad for my engine? it sounds good, will i get more HP? it didnt cost much so will this be bad?
thanks